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About boogie

  • Birthday 10/07/1971

Profile Information

  • Location
    North Staffordshire
  • Cars Owned:
    1982 Ford Fiesta XR2 - CRE 605Y (Sold)
    1981 Ford Orion 1.6 Ghia - ANT 358Y (Sold)
    1986 Vauxhall Nova 1.3 SR - D262 AFA (Sold)
    1990 Vauxhall Nova 1.4 SR - G787 XNK (Sold)
    1994 Vauxhall Corsa 1.5d - M942 AFA (Sold)
    1973 Triumph TR6 (Nearing end of restoration)
    2004 Chrysler PT Cruiser 2.2 CRD - KT04 XOU (Sold)
    2007 Vauxhall Astra SRi 1.9 CDTi - KK57 DHV (Sold)
    2010 Ford Focus 1.6d - SH10 YUG (rejected and refunded by Arnold Shark)
    2006 Honda Civic Type S - DV56 MMA (Sold)
    2010 Jeep Patriot Overland 2.2 CRD - DY60 HWT (Sold) - Pile of Sh!te
    2016 Jeep Renegade 1.6 CRD - DU66 TXP (Gone)
    2018 Hyundai Ioniq Plug-in Hybrid - HF68 OWZ (Daily Driver)

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  1. Thanks Bruce, and spot-on with the adaptor/union on the m/u flange. I've tried PTFE tape but it just tears up and doesn't stay in place. I've added a bit of thread-lock and will see how this goes
  2. I've noticed when on choke there's a fine squirt of fuel from around the return pipe union on the m/u. It doesn't seem to be there when the choke's fully closed. I bought a replacement pipe and on taking the old one off I noticed the union was a bit "waggly" and on closer inspection isn't sealing properly - I suspect this has been cross-threaded and that's what's now causing me the problem. I'm still going to replace the old pipe anyway but would I be okay using PTFE tape to improve the seal, or should I take the m/u off and get the hole re-threaded?
  3. No oil cooler, spin-on oil filter conversion but not the one that takes the oil cooler
  4. That's the plan now. It's going to be a few weeks before I can get back out to do this now with work commitments, a holiday booked and having to "sort the garden out" to balance up the time I spend on "that damn car"!!
  5. To avoid any confusion, the oil was on the ground under the car, not in the passenger side, but your point about the pipeline is one I was considering as the spill seems to centre on where this connection is. If not here, then possibly the oil pressure release valve - can this spurt out about 100ml of oil in certain circumstances?
  6. Yes, I didn't manage to clear through the engine or heater, just the radiator
  7. Thanks Waldi. I decided not to get too downhearted and have just been back in the garage to do as you suggest. There's no huge puddle under the car so that's good. The oil level is still above minimum and I've wiped over all the surfaces. There's no oil at a higher level and the first oil I can find is around the distributor pedestal. There's then oil all along the lip of the sump to block, so I've cleaned that completely now. There's no oil on the driver side anywhere (rhd car). The main oil residue is arond the sump plug and the drain plug of the gearbox. My oil is rusty again, so I need to flush through again - I suspect all the crud's in the heater and/or engine
  8. Well, a little bit of progress then not. I drained the coolant - I say coolant in the loosest sense of the word, as it was pretty much just rusty water. Fitted a new thermostat and checked the water pump was still functional. I've left the temperature sender and gauge for now to see how things pan out. Afterabout 10 minutes on tick-over the temperature seemed ok and I was getting warm air through the vents. Then disaster. My car decided, whilst I was staring in the engine bay and darting around to check on temperature, she was going to mark her territory. Oil all over the floor on the passenger side about level with the firewall. I've given up for now and will look at the oil issue in a few weeks when I'm back from working away (another two steps back!!!)
  9. No real update on the symptoms I've been experiencing, or from me saying I've tried any of your suggestions yet, but I have had another look under the bonnet tonight and noticed a few things. The temperature sender does seem to be a new one so I'm happy to take back my questioning of my mechanic's work in this respect The radiator needed topping-up so I used the now full overflow bottle and noticed the water was very rusty looking (potentially a little oily, but no mayonaisse) The heater return pipe where it connects to the water pump seems as though it has a slight leak - this was leaking a lot more until recently when it was tightened a bit more - and there seems to be an oily-residue around the connection There is what appears to be an oilly residue on the engine block just below the distributor body and above the oil filter
  10. I've been to pick up a few spares and was given a second-hand working temperature gauge to try and also bought a new sender. The sender should've been replaced as part of the rebuild, but after finding a few things that should have been done but weren't I'm not so sure. I've got quite a few jobs to get on to, just need the time to do it now amongst my day job - I know what I'd prefer to be doing ;-)
  11. Thanks everyone. I'm heading over to Warrington to pick up some parts in readiness to have a look at a few of your suggestions. I've got an infra-red thermometer somewhere. It was one of those purchases that seemed good to have but I never actually used. Maybe it'll come in useful now.
  12. Thanks Nigel, and yes the engine has been out of the car in the no-too-distant. This is the first time the car's been back on the road since 1985 and my dad rebuilt the engine about 8 years ago. The car's now all back together again and I thought air-free. I think I'll get the nose raised and see if there's any more in there. The temperature did seem to go down (I presume when the thermostat opened) but I didn't like how quick it warmed up in the first place
  13. Thanks Waldi. Just as I think I'm making progress I keep getting these problems. I'll get a new rad cap tomorrow then run through the list of possible solutions/areas to check :-(
  14. This has been covered before, but the direct question not quite answered hence me asking. Apologies if I've missed it from other posts, or indeed missed the other posts completely, I did try a search first of all. A friend gave me a hand with my timing, setting it up by lining the dizzy up with the position of the rotor arm, but we couldn't get smooth acceleration and it seemed like there was a misfire on a cylinder. Since then I've taken the gamble that the tdc mark is lined up properly after my engine rebuild (my dad was a stickler for doing things right, so I'd imagine he'd do this as well) and used my timing strobe to set at about 14btdc. She seems to be ticking over nicely and runs a bit smoother, although still some fettling required. Tick-over is about 800 rpm. I took the car for its first run but returned quickly as the temperature gauge was approaching the red line. This is a standard engine with the standard fan. The heaters are blowing warm and the radiator was warm. The car seemed to get to mid-temperature on the gauge within minutes of starting and I was only out for about 10 minutes before I panicked and went home. I've since noticed the radiator cap is marked with 7lbs not 13lbs. Would the rad cap account for such a rapid rise in engine temperature, or is there a suggestion I might still off with the timing as well?
  15. Hi all, As part of my investigations into the throttle body butterfly closings I've looked at the accelerator and choke cable positions as my mechanic refitted them. Studying photos there's a good mix of variation and I was wondering what the definitive locations (if there is such a thing) should be on a CR Pi car. My choke cable is the silver one on the photo, running to the central position on the throttle bodies and the accelerator is the black one that runs to the front of the throttle bodies (nearest to the air adjustment screw). Thanks, Steve
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