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Mike C

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Everything posted by Mike C

  1. Robin, I don't know what else you have done but it'd be worth having a look at the inlet manifold for leaks. Regards,
  2. Red,I think the reason the butterflies should not shut completely is simply to maintain a nominal clearance and stop them jamming into the inlet manifold bodies.The Brown Book says the clearance should be less than 2 thou (.05mm).I would not try to do any of these adjustments with worn linkages.
  3. Thanks Stan.I'll look for an alternative, thinner belt.Your right, if you have a spare belt it makes it much easier to get something done on the day. At the very worst it means removing and replacing the six bolts on the cross brace. Regards, Mike
  4. I would not fit anything to the manifold that takes hot air from alongside the engine.That will lead to a loss of power.Triumph and a lot of other sporting car manufacturer's go to great lengths to get cold, dense air to the intake.Hence the elaborate ducting assembly from the inlet manifold to the front of the car. Are you sure the cold start linkage is fully going to "off" -with clearance at the metering unit. Regards,
  5. Hi Willem. I have an early CP engine which has only two of those tubes.They are not fitted with any clamps at all.I have no starting problems or lean spark plug readings that would indicate manifold leakage. In the Triumph and Haymes manuals there are no clamps shown. However if you want to fit clamps I cannot see reason why not.
  6. Mark, Thanks for bringing this up. I believe in carrying a spare fan belt on long runs -but I have always assumed that it would be an easy matter to fit it- as per the simple instructions in the Brown Book and common automotive practice.My last belt was fitted as part of the extra jobs I had done while the engine/gearbox was out for a clutch replacement.. Tonight I tried levering my engine back as recommended.The engine mounts are pretty inflexible and while I could probably fit a belt in the garage with a metre long jemmy bar I wouldn't like to do it at the side of the road with say a
  7. Good move Stallie.With regard to your gearbox,make sure you are not using a hypoid gear oil in it.Hypoid gears slide along the teeth in operation and require a lot of friction modifiers.These modifiers also stop the synchro rings from working properly.I had a clutch replaced years ago while I was away and when I picked the car up the gearbox operation was terrible-which I put down to the new clutch and my failing memory of how bad the gearbox must have been.I suspect that during the replacement the gearbox oil was drained and replaced with modern GL5 oil.I replaced the gearbox/OD oil with Pe
  8. Stallie, trfella's experience with the polybush's on a recent thread is typical of mine with my TR6.With these older cars you really don't know for certain what part you need until you physically inspect the old part.People like us have been messing about with these cars for 40 years.I am very reluctant to buy parts "on spec". Regards,
  9. Stallie ,I travel a bit but I've never been tempted to buy parts while I'm in the US or UK just because I'm there.For me buying parts is a fairly considered decision.I often buy Moss and Rimmer's parts off the Healy Factory and Pickard's in Melbourne because I can discuss the the range of parts available with them before purchase.As you point out the mark ups are outrageous - but it's better than ending up with a shed full of parts that don't fit.If you want to buy cheaply ,sight unseen why not buy direct from Moss,Rimmer Bros.etc.There is only 10% GST on parts imported direct over the suppli
  10. It depends on what you consider to be important.I installed a Pertronix because I got tired of cleaning and gapping the points each 1000 miles or so (generally putting it off until poor starting performance forced me to do it).Looking at the engine most people would not notice they are installed.Each to his own. Regards
  11. Mike C

    running rich

    First and easiest thing to check is that the fuel enrichment control is free when the knob is pushed in and that there is clearance at the metering unit.
  12. Mike C

    what did it do

    Note in Roger William's book"How to improve the TR6" ,fig 13-5-3, shows the cabling to this block doubled -which is amongst his recommendations for upgrading the alternator and associated electrics( there is also an earth shown to the block- which could start a whole new discussion). I don't think the cable size differences mean much. These cars are 40 years old and there are a lot of parts that that have been changed and may not be original. Regards,
  13. Mike C

    what did it do

    I agree with David. I have the block shown in wiring diagrams up to 70/71, after that its a straight brown wire.It supplies a direct feed from the battery to the alternator and fuse block- a feed that doesn't go through the ignition switch.My guess is that someone drew in into the circuits for the original design and during a later design/cost cutting review it was found the block could be replaced by a simple connection to an existing wire. The block has been removed from my '69 PI model.
  14. Mike C

    TR5 wipers

    Thanks Ian.I was working off a TR250 wiring diagram I had in a sheaf of TR6 wiring diagrams.It shows the switch and motor as a block with three separate connections.As the TerryHunt article says, this is obviously misleading when trying to interpolate the diagram to what is happening inside the switch. Lots of other good reading in the article that is applicable to TR6's. Regards,
  15. If you are getting metal to metal contact in the pump it's worn beyond its useful life.I'd replace it before the engine is cooked -if that happens you will have to reach for the plastic in a big way.They are a consumable item available from the major aftermarket suppliers Dewatering fluid such as WD 40 should get the wet ignition going for the moment. Did your temperature gauge go well towards the "H" side of the dial.If it did I'd recommend you flush out the cooling system thoroughly to remove any scale dislodged by overheating after replacing the pump ,before refilling with coolant.
  16. Steve, You wouldn't have raced the engine at start up, before the bearing oil films were established?In a hydrodynamic bearing the oil pressure establishes a film that prevents metal to metal contact.Its the film and not the oil pressure itself that prevents the contact.I believe that it is good practice to wait for pressure on the gauge to ensure oil delivery to the bearings then add an additional few minutes for the film to establish. I have seen this wear pattern on passenger car bearings that were operated as daily drivers, just started and run. Regards,
  17. Mike C

    Setting points

    Good grief.I read in recently in an English magazine that the French require hi-viz jackets in the cabin,warning triangles,a spare light bulb set,etc just to let you drive in the place.What's the penalty for no speedo?Thirty years on Devils Island?
  18. Mike C

    Setting points

    Eli, Both instruments could be out.If your gear ratio's are standard the car speed vs engine rpm is detailed in the back of the TR6 green glovebox manual.For example in top (no OD) you should be doing 102 km/hr @3000 rpm.If your tacho is reading 20% low you will be doing 127.5 km/hr. If you are worried about the speedo accuracy a lot of areas have measured stretches of road you can check your speedo against. Regards,
  19. Mike C

    Setting points

    Eli, Just rotate the engine and cam until the points gap appears to be the widest, then set the gap at that point. Regards,
  20. Mike C

    Setting points

    Hi Eli, When I do points I need to physically see them.I then turn the engine by means of the fan belt ,or whatever,in the normal direction of rotation until the cam is on the heel of the points and is trying to open them as far as possible.The screws holding the points are then loosened until they are snugly holding the points but still allow the points to move open or close.In the TR6 there is a slot a screwdriver can be put in to rotate the points around on the base of the distributor slightly.As they rotate they open or close.Rotate them till you get the right gap.The Brown Book says the
  21. Mike C

    TR5 wipers

    Hi Robin, I can help with the wiring.The wiring I have diagram for a TR 250 shows : For the motor-Green wire from fuse,Black to earth. For the switch-To motor Brown/Light Green =Fast,Red/Light Green=Slow -To earth =Black(shown as centre connections in the diagram) I've never looked at a TR250 switch closely.I hope your switch is similiar to the one that Guy has shown how to put back together. Note that the diagram I have shows both the motor and switches earthed.Personally,whenever I have a fault with a piece of 12V Lucas gear that's earthed, I clean and check the ear
  22. Jeremy.My belief is that with a TR6 the engine power in maximized by advancing the timing as far as possible without pinging.I advance the timing until I start to hear pinging with the accelerator flat to the floor and the car accelerating.I have to establish the timing setting will start the pinging.Note back off the throttle once you hear it as it does have the potential to damage the engine.Make sure you have a tank full of fuel with the octane rating you intend to use.Then retard the ignition slightly until the pinging just disappears.The micrometer adjustment is fitted to the distributo
  23. Jeremy.That's good news.There's nothing wrong with points except the need to frequently clean and gap them then confirm the timing in a TR6.It's not the worst job in the world to do.I just got sick of having to do it every 1000 miles or so so I installed a Pertronix.I guess you will now have to decide which way to go.Regards.
  24. Yes distributors are an item the modern car owner won't lament.Over 40 years ago I used to test the points and coil by removing the centre lead from the distributor and holding it with insulated pliers about a quarter of an inch from the block.You then got someone to crank the engine over and watched for a fat blue spark.If you got the spark the coil,its HT lead and the points were OK.You then looked at the rotor,distributor cap and its HT leads.I haven't done this on my TR6 when the points were installed and I have no idea if it will work with or damage a Pertronix Ignitor. Might be worth
  25. Jeremy,I don't know if this will help but I noticed that I've soldered,rather than crimped ,the joints on the LT side of my ignition system.This was probably because I had a problem with dry joints in the past.It may be worth checking the crimping or soldering the LT joints.
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