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jerrytr5

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Everything posted by jerrytr5

  1. TR Bitz can probably help you out or any 'old' car breaker - common to most cars of the period. Expect I have some in the shed somewhere if you get stuck. Jerry
  2. If that red wire is carrying a live and is winding round with the column (as I don't see a slip ring) then it is an accident waiting to happen. Disconnect it immediately. Jerry
  3. That would explain it Andy. Amazing what you learn on here. Jerry.
  4. jerrytr5

    Column movement

    Or the dash support bracket is loose. I have often found item 51 missing https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/steering-column-wheels-tr5-6-1967-76.html Jerry
  5. +1 for stuck valve. Check the pushrod for straightness before reassembly. Happened to me and bent 2 pushrods - slightly different reason for stuck valves but shows what will happen. Jerry
  6. I don't see where the 'substantial work' would be Andrew, you just need to knock out the studs and fit longer ones and appropriate nuts. Then to revert to wires you'll need a slim spacer under the spline adaptor to take up the extra stud length. As far as size, choose your tyre first and let that inform your wheel size. Downsides of knock-on alloys are the weight and cost. My 5 looked best on wires, but handled better on alloys. Jerry
  7. If you can find a way of lubricating that's fine. Maybe you could soak it in a vat of something. Mine looked perfect in every respect and seemed to slide ok but I was amazed at the significant difference it made when I installed a new one. It's 40 or 50 years old and never been lubricated - probably. I don't normally recommend new over Stanpart, but in this case - fit a new one. What's a motor cycle cable oiler Bruce? Jerry
  8. Roger, stop inventing things to do. Gearboxes leak Full Stop. How else would you replicate that warm EP90 aroma after a hard drive? Jerry
  9. I'm no expert on grease, but LM surely is correct for this application. Jerry
  10. Can you still find an Acclaim? Know nothing about them - were they Honda engined? Jerry
  11. The 'pencil' connects to the slip ring at the top of the column and provides the positive. The 'orrid bit of bent copper on your horn push must connect to the pencil. The springy bit on the side of the horn push must make an electrical contact with the boss, which in turn provides the earth assuming there is continuity down the column, across the u/j's with link wire, down to the rack and through the earth strap to the chassis. You could solder a wire direct to the pencil to take the bendy copper out of the equation which gives you a better chance of getting the horn push on straight, and you need to make sure all the other links are in place. Don't allow the boss to touch the outer column, but I'm sure you know that. All together now: 'The slip ring connects to the pencil-bone, the pencil connects to the horn push-bone, ..........' Jerry
  12. Suggestions on what Triumph a youngster might enjoy in the sprint & hillclimb championship. One of my lads expressed a vague interest the other day (anything to get him off computer gaming). He doesn't like my TR or the Hurricane(not that it is elligible) - aparently a 'proper' car has to have a roof. I showed him a picture of a Dolly Sprint and got an encouraging response. Suspect a Sprint will be out of our budget. Maybe a Toledo or Dolly 1850 ? Have to be RWD or I'll never be able to drive it (never got the hang of FWD). Just an idle Sunday morning thought. Any suggestions? Jerry
  13. You might struggle to get the trunnion bush in without loosening the bolts. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, 'cos it does look pretty. Jerry
  14. Well I'm intrigued and I don't see it on the suppliers web pages that I viewed. Where have you seen this Phil? Jerry
  15. Try putting combinations of words in quotes in the search box, or using google with something like bulkhead "www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/" Jerry
  16. Mike Papworth is in that area isn't he? Give him a google, you should be able to find him. Jerry
  17. Going back to the original question, historically part of the reason people moved to tube dampers from lever arms was the impossibility of getting lever arms repaired at a cost-effective price. Given that many now recommend staying with levers, I guess that situation no longer applies. Various types of brackets have been offered as has been noted. What is most important should one choose the tube conversion is to verify for yourself that when fitted the damper does NOT fully compress on full bump. Only the bump stop mounted between body and t/a should be used for controlling full bump. If the internal tube damper bump stop is used then you will probably break the lower mounting off the trailing arm as it was never designed for this use. This check needs to be made by removing the spring and checking full bump, and must be done whenever you replace the dampers. Otherwise, I'm happy with my koni conversion and have been for many years. Jerry
  18. Go to superpro with the outer and inner diameter and bush length - it will be a standard bush. I prefer Superflex https://www.superflex.co.uk/products.php?cat=393 Jerry.
  19. There is an alternative. Have your rear shoes fitted with a different lining such as VG95. Certainly good enough for spirited road work, track days and the Nordschleiffe. Jerry
  20. Free length corresponds with standard, don't have a note about wire dia. Uprated tend to be about 260mm Jerry
  21. Bracket looks a tad twisted to me, but I haven't got one to compare as I hate those boot stays and removed mine, bracket and all. As you say, if it ain't broke... GRP prop tunnel is good. Get the split version (two parts) which is easier to fit & remove. Make sure you take the access cover panels off your cardboard one and refit. I don't think underfelt is a good investment, although some over the prop tunnel is worthwhile. Trouble is it holds water so if you get caught out in the rain it well stay soggy for months - unless you enjoy taking the interior to pieces to dry it out. It's a convertible, so it will be wind noise not road noise which is all part of the fun. Jerry
  22. I don't believe the shims are fitted to equalise pads or anything of that nature. I have only come across them fitted where the caliper body itself is grazing the disc and the shim just centralises the caliper. Whether this is due to poor tolerance in the caliper, mounting bracket, disc or bearing I know not. Jerry
  23. Would seem to point to something not right with the new pump, but can't think what - not much to them really. Have you still got the old one to put back on?
  24. So what was it doing before the water pump change, and why did it need a water pump ? Jerry
  25. Sounds about right but it's long time since I did one. Don't fit the bottom stop until last as you'll need to drop the glass as far as possible to fit the weatherstrips. Jerry
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