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Hi Folks,

update on the clutch.

Friday, after fitting new pressure plate, friction plate, steel bearing carrier, RHP expensive bearing, AND and new extension for the carrier and oil seal+ gasket.

The action felt beautiful. The best it has ever been.

Saturday we had a TRip to Goring-sur-le-mer (next to Worthing). The clutch felt great for 30 or 40 miles and then the stickiness came back.

Pressing to disengage works well - nice and smooth.

When lifting the pedal I could feel the pressure come off half way up the pedal TRavel and then suddenly bang into the pedal.

 

So this morning I decided to replace both the master and slave cy's.

 

Having done that it feels very very smooth and light. I did a 10 mile drive with no ill effects but I think another 50 miles is needed.

Could it have been the M&S cy's !!!

 

Roger

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Hi Folks,

update on the clutch.

Friday, after fitting new pressure plate, friction plate, steel bearing carrier, RHP expensive bearing, AND and new extension for the carrier and oil seal+ gasket.

The action felt beautiful. The best it has ever been.

Saturday we had a TRip to Goring-sur-le-mer (next to Worthing). The clutch felt great for 30 or 40 miles and then the stickiness came back.

Pressing to disengage works well - nice and smooth.

When lifting the pedal I could feel the pressure come off half way up the pedal TRavel and then suddenly bang into the pedal.

 

So this morning I decided to replace both the master and slave cy's.

 

Having done that it feels very very smooth and light. I did a 10 mile drive with no ill effects but I think another 50 miles is needed.

Could it have been the M&S cy's !!!

 

Roger

More likely Master Roger if it is one of the cylinders.

Stuart.

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Hi Folks,

another update. Things are seriously not right.

The clutch pedal is sticking after shorter and shorter runs. There must be a heat issue somewhere.

 

When it started it had a laycock cover, RHP bearing and a brass carrier. The fork pins are in very good condition.

These had been in place for two months before the problem started. However the cover and similar bearing had been in for two years with no problem.

 

What I found today (a week after fitting) after a 14 mile journey (Moss and back) the clutch was very bad.

I stopped at my house and turned the engine off. On depressing the clutch it was perfect and very very light.

Start engine and the clutch sticks badly.

 

So it is the rotating of the engine that is causing the sticking.

 

I have a fancy 'blued' steel bearing carrier that felt very good when slid by hand. If was fitted dry.

I did not fit the anti-rotation pin - could this cause it to stick.???????

 

What else would make the clutch release to become sticky.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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Hi Folks,

another update. Things are seriously not right.

The clutch pedal is sticking after shorter and shorter runs. There must be a heat issue somewhere.

 

When it started it had a laycock cover, RHP bearing and a brass carrier. The fork pins are in very good condition.

These had been in place for two months before the problem started. However the cover and similar bearing had been in for two years with no problem.

 

What I found today (a week after fitting) after a 14 mile journey (Moss and back) the clutch was very bad.

I stopped at my house and turned the engine off. On depressing the clutch it was perfect and very very light.

Start engine and the clutch sticks badly.

 

So it is the rotating of the engine that is causing the sticking.

 

I have a fancy 'blued' steel bearing carrier that felt very good when slid by hand. If was fitted dry.

I did not fit the anti-rotation pin - could this cause it to stick.???????

 

What else would make the clutch release to become sticky.

 

Roger

I did say Roger

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Roger

The pins on the fork will be to tight also put the nose cone in the lathe I think you will find the face it not flat.

Hi Neil,
I did check the carrier and it all slid along very nice. The extension was brand new and looked well machined.
What should I have been looking for.
Roger
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Hi Folks,

just having a coffee before the lump comes out. Everything is off, just a matter of pulling the GB rearwards.

 

I measured an old, good bearing carrier (dark bronze) and the ID is 1.690". The previous carrier (light bronze/brass) that went sticky after apprx 5000 miles (and getting worse with every journey) measured 1.685". Very slightly smaller.

If the heat was expanding things then why would it be OK with a hot stationary engine !!!

 

We shall see.

 

Roger

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Roger,

While replacing the slave cilinder, was the oil which came out of the old one rather clean?

There is a small chance that the flex hose connected in the hydraulic line is deteriorating inside, this can block the return flow of oil while releasing the clutch peddal. Another but less likely cause can be the venthole in the hydraulicreservoir cap.

Robert

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Hi Robert,

over the years I have noticed that the DOT4 fluid gets very dirty very quickly. I put it down to contamination from the Ali body.

The plastic pipe is the original. I wouldn't have thought it would deteriorate but tomorrow I will change it.

 

Roger

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Hi Folks,

busy couple of days.

The box is now in and the furnishings will be done in the morning.

 

What did I find - Not a lot really.

The extension nose is not in alignment with the input shaft - +0.015" adrift. Not possible to adjust this - more thought needed.

I did not fit the aniti-rotation pin in the carrier - this is now fitted.

The carrier 45' chamfer is now radius'd - as big as I could make it.

All moving parts are now lubricated. I always thought they were installed dry - but advice suggests different.

 

Should be interesting tomorrow.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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Hi Folks,

let this be the final update (please please please). :wacko:

Took it for a 10 mile run and the clutch works very well :) (as it did previously before it went wrong).

The pedal action is very good but needs a small adjustment. I refitted the slave return spring and this has caused the gap on the push rod to grow.

 

Thoughts on the problem.!!

I know the extension nose is apprx 0.015" out of alignment from the input shaft. :wacko:

At present I don;t know if this is a simple vertical displacement or the extension is angled slightly.

This misalignment must be transferred to the bearing/diaphragm mating face.

When the pedal pressure is removed the diaphragm fingers push the bearing back as normal but because of the misalignment it tends to cock the bearing/carrier.

At the back of the carrier there is a nice 45' bevel/chamfer. The cocking of the carrier allows the edge of the chamfer to dig in.

 

I have rounded off this chamfer and it is now a fairly large radius rounded corner - the hope is this is less likely to dig in.

 

I have a feeling that a floating bearing may do the trick but!! how do you install it, not much room.

Or if the ID of the carrier was tapered for some/all of its length, by a couple of degrees, this may allow slight misalignment to be nullified.

 

The problem with being clever is that if it is wrong it is hard work sorting it.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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Bit late now, but you could have checked the extension nose trueness on your lathe ? hold the parallel part in chuck, & dial gauge on the flat surface, & on the inside of the bearing retaining hollow.

 

Bob.

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Hi Pete,

I may remove once everything settles down.

 

Hi Alan,

I have not disregarded the fancy slave. The enigne will be out again at the end of September so I may take that route.

 

Hi Bob,

I would have thought that all the clever machining on the rear face of the extension would have been done whilst holding the parallel snout/nose.

I shall recheck when the engine is out in sept.

 

Did a fair few miles yesterday and it is still running OK. Could it have been the chamfer on the carrier? We will see.

 

Roger

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