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TR4 rear suspension lowering blocks


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Hi.

Can anyone supply or advise where I can obtain a pair of lowering blocks and extended u bolts for the rear axle. I need to "level" the car up after fitting uprated / lowered front springs. I'm not keen on fitting uprated rear springs at this stage - there being many tales of variable quality and never quite knowing what ride height you will end up with compared to a set of well used original springs.

Thanks,

Stuart.

 

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Hi Stuart

 

I suggest you talk to Simon Watson at TR Enterprises or Neil Revington at RTR. Both should be able to advise and supply any necessary parts as I have used their services for this very job a number of times.

 

Regards

 

Tony

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TRE recommend a machine shop to make them - no info from RTR yet apart from the lowering blocks referred to in their catalogue as "4mm thick"

 

I am going to model them in 3D and get a quote from an online CNC supplier - unless anyone has any further suggestions - I think ill have a go at the boot latch while I'm at it

 

Regards

 

Stuart

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Stuart,

Aren't you going to get a lot of understeer with stiffened front, unchanged rear? Would a rear antiroll bar be feasible?

Peter

Edited by Peter Cobbold
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TRE recommend a machine shop to make them - no info from RTR yet apart from the lowering blocks referred to in their catalogue as "4mm thick"

 

I am going to model them in 3D and get a quote from an online CNC supplier - unless anyone has any further suggestions - I think ill have a go at the boot latch while I'm at it

 

Regards

 

Stuart

Hi Stuart

Why don't you install some longer rear spring shackles you only need some quarter inch plate and suitable bolts.

Whilst you are at it you can drill them to make them adjustable.

That is what I have always done on my Hillclimb cars.

Regards

John

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Don't forget the spring has to locate onto the axle, a peg on the spring top goes into a hole in the axle plate.

any spacers must incorperate a suitable size hole underneath, & a peg on top otherwise the axle can move back & forth under acceleration, or braking.

 

Bob.

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Hi

Thanks for the advice. I had anticipated the need to incorporate a hole and peg, hence the thought of getting the blocks machined rather than just cut. Replacing the bolt through the spring is a good idea to get round this. Replacing the spring shackles is also good - to lower the car 20mm the shackles would have to be about 40mm longer - is this ok?

Regards

Stuart

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"...to lower the car 20mm the shackles would have to be about 40mm longer - is this ok?"

 

 

Don't forget that the shackle provides location for the axle by limiting the sideways movement. Lengthening it will inevitably result in more play and so affect the handling (unless you also fit a Panhard rod). Also by doubling the length of the shackle you are doubling the twisting force applied to the pin and chassis boss for sideways loads, so maybe not good for fatigue-life and longevity.

 

Rob

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