cj79 Posted October 18, 2014 Report Share Posted October 18, 2014 Hi All I've had to do some work on the brakes of the daily driver so moved the TR6 out of the garage this morning, it took a good minute or two of cranking to get the engine to fire, then just now when I was trying to move it I can't get it started.. It's a completely rebuilt engine, new points, new compressor, new fuel system including Bosch pump, I can hear the pump running fine and there is a good spray to all 6 injectors. I'm thinking sparks, I've had problems ever since I got it back together last year with sooty spark plugs but these are only a few months old. I guess it's running rich but I had the MU serviced by Malcolm at prestige injection so i'm at a bit of a loss, (the choke does return correctly, I checked that as well..) I'll have to wait til tomorrow to get the sparks out as its getting dark soon and I need to get the front discs back on the bmw before tomorrow am. If anyone can think of another reason for it not starting properly (it is timed correctly, MU is brand new as well so diaphragm should be fine) i'd really appreciate some advice? ThanksChris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cj79 Posted October 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2014 I meant condenser not compressor btw Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wheeler Posted October 18, 2014 Report Share Posted October 18, 2014 Hi Chris Sounds like ignition to me here is a nice check list http://www.classic-car-buyer.co.uk/features/trade-tips/669-how-to-check-ignition-systems Good luck Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted October 19, 2014 Report Share Posted October 19, 2014 It may not be rich enough. Disconnect the choke cable that opens the throttle butterflies. But leave the cable to the MU untouched. That'll give a richer mixture - for starting it has to be very rich. Check points gap as they can close up in hundred miles if not slightly greased. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Denis Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 Chris, I've always had to crank my car for ages before it starts from cold, with the 'cold start' (choke) out, and as it tries to catch I leave the starter engaged to chase it, until it can run by itself, before letting go of the key (and small dabs of the throttle pedal) This is after leaving the ignition on with the Lucas Pump humming for at least 2 minutes! However my car starts on the button from Hot or warm. Try my cold starting technique! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike3739 Posted October 25, 2014 Report Share Posted October 25, 2014 Hi Chris After having my engine rebuilt 40,000 miles ago & the complete P.I. system refurbished by Malcolm at Prestige Injection, Bosch pump with Electronic ignition choke 3/4's out ignition on 20 seconds then will start 2nd or 3rd time slowly depressing accelerator each time. This seems to work for me. Cheers Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR Paul Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 (edited) Hi Chris, My TR6 p.i. was always a pig to start from cold, in 'cold' weather (That is, any weather other than a glorious summers' day).I tried all sorts of stuff with the ignition & fuel systems (as mentioned on the forum many times), ending up using a small wooden wedge to hold the choke lever on the M.U. fully open, & even then sometimes needing jump-leads. Then my (original type Lucas) starter motor packed up (literally the minute I got home from the 2010 LM classic),and I replaced it with a 'Hi-Torque' lightweight starter motor from TRGB; I wouldn't say that 'Troy' starts at the first turn of the switch now, but he always does start, & I don't need jump leads or a wedge! Hope you get your problems sorted soon, best wishes, Paul. Edited October 26, 2014 by TR Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted October 26, 2014 Report Share Posted October 26, 2014 I put up with poor starting for a while until I found that during cranking the fuel pressure was dropping way below the nominal 106psi that it should be. Improving the wiring and adjusting the prv fixed it and cold starting was no problem thereafter. Get yourself a pressure gauge and eliminate the doubt. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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