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About cj79

  • Birthday 06/09/1979

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    Leeds, West Yorkshire

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  1. cj79

    MOT Exemption

    The only reason I was looking for a get-out in the short term is that my TR6 is at my parents farm in Leeds and I now live in Cambridge. It's not often I get home and arranging an MOT and being around to drop off and pick up especially if there is anything that needs to be done is tricky. In the past it has been easier to SORN it but I figured it would be nice to have the option of a late summer drive. Turns out I got a weekend up there and.. well.. it wouldn't start, so that was that. Back on the trickle charger and hopefully have the time to MOT it next spring! Thanks for all the advice guys Chris
  2. cj79

    MOT Exemption

    OK thanks for the feedback, (I did try and search initially but MOT was not allowed as a search term and MOT exemption came up with nothing). I'll get it MOT'd anyway as I would feel better to have done so. Thanks again, Chris
  3. cj79

    MOT Exemption

    Hi All, I have a 1974 TR6 and just called my local garage to book an MOT. The owner informed me of the change in law which had completely passed me by. I've read up on it and i'm not sure I qualify. I fitted the telescopic shock absorber brackets in place of the lever arm version, this was to improve stability and in the exceptions on the .gov page it seems to be a bit of a grey area (in the exceptions to the exceptions bit). The rule is you don't qualify if you have made substantial changes to the vehicle namely in this case: • Axles and running gear – alteration of the type and or method of suspension or steering constitutes a substantial change; however there are exeptions: • in respect of axles and running gear changes made to improve efficiency, safety or environmental performance; - not strictly applicable I know.. • changes of a type, that can be demonstrated to have been made when vehicles of the type were in production or in general use (within ten years of the end of production); - possible? I think it's fairly likely that the telescopic modification was in use within ten years of the end of production.. but can't be sure. What does everybody think? I have the original lever arm dampers in storage and could refit if need be, i'd rather not though i'll probably just keep MOTing it. Cheers, Chris
  4. Hi All, Moved my girlfriend into her new flat over the weekend so no internet. OK i've read through all the responses, thanks a lot for all the advice! Ian - Fuel Filters - I did misfuel 'slightly' last year, it never ran right before that so I didn't look to that as a symptom, what's the best way to clean out the Bosch inline filter, or is it a case of just replacing it? I'll definitely get in touch with the local group, it's just I don't trust the TR for more than a quick drive around the block as it is!  Roger - Good to know, I always assumed it would be better but never smooth (I have got a 74 CR spec car with the CP inlet manifolds/ butterflys/ cam etc.) so I've read it'll never run really smooth? Alan - I'm more than happy to get my hands dirty :) as I say i'm just not confident in getting more than a mile in it without problems! Theres no way i'd take it on the motorway in its current state, thanks for the offer though! Rog - Cam Timing - this was checked when the MU was replaced so should be ok. Oh and the sparks are brand new (i've replaced them 4 times in 2 years.. definitely shouldn't be having to do that I know! Peter - It's a reconditioned dissy, old cap though if I remember correctly.. new rotor arm, new coil/ leads/ points/ condenser, i've contemplated going to electronic ignition but after reading horror stories on this forum I decided against..  Hot Growler - I've tried that lot unfortunately, used completely separate set of leads, new coil.. it has its days when it runs very well that's the frustrating thing.. it's just really unpredictable. Neil - Thanks for the offer I will PM you the spec, i'd really appreciate it if you could take a look if you have the time! Marko - Turned out the PRV was the last sticking point (literally) to get the engine running after it sat for 16 years in the barn.. cleaned it out and got a good (106psi) I think at the MU. I haven't checked that for a while so I'll give that a go but i'm getting a good spray at the injectors so it looks ok, no harm in checking to be sure though! poolboy - Thanks i'll remember that! :) Thanks again for all the advice, i'll get it working properly some day with a bit of luck! Cheers, Chris
  5. Hello all, I know this is probably a long shot but I have to try something. I'm not going to list everything I've done to the car here but basically after 16 years sitting in the barn, four years ago it was pretty much as it was when it rolled off the production line in 1974. It took 3 years and everything was either reworked to new status or replaced. The engine was professionally reworked, re-bored, new pistons, the works. It just takes ages to start, if it's left for more than a few weeks it almost drains the battery just to get it to fire up (with a brand new hi-torque starter), when it's running, some days it's just 'OK' others it backfires like hell and jumps forward occasionally when given a little throttle... it's not happy and a really bad driving experience.. I'm 37 so I have no idea if this is how cars 'just functioned' in the 70's (I was alive for a total of 6 months of that decade) I highly doubt it though. I've tried to take it to a number of Leeds based classic garages and it's never really been fixed. The ignition timing is on the dot, all injectors are spraying a nice cone, Prestige Injection setup the (brand new) MU for me, all fuel lines and injector pipes are brand new as is the fuel tank and pump. I've done all I can with the butterfly's and inlet manifold air supply... Is there anyone in the north of England near Leeds that could come and have a look for me? There's lots of Tea/Beer and petrol money in it for you!! Cheers, Chris
  6. Drilling the SS Bumper is incredibly tough, I centre punched a couple of notches and went through 5 bits before I got the job done. It's where it should be mounted though with the L brackets so unless there's a specific reason why you don't want to do this I suggest you go out and buy a job lot of HS steel bits and get cracking. It took about 30 mins of sweating but it looks good where it is and it's anchored firmly, if you tried clamping it in any way I would worry about airflow dislodging it down there... I wish I'd done it when the bumpers were off the car as I could have inverted them and done them on the pillar drill and lubricated the drilling, unfortunately I left it as pretty much the last job so was under the car with the drill...
  7. Hi Adrian The most difficult part I found was bending the fuel line from the PRV down through the hole in the body and lining up with the vertical pipe on the chassis member that's the end of the long pipe that as the guys have said is riveted along the length of the car. you have to get it pretty exact to stop it getting close to the near side half shaft. The kit that's available gives you a short length from the PRV then a connector to an extension that bends down to link up with the long body length pipe. I used a pipe bender on the new copper fuel line and tried to match the original curves as best I could, it still took a little bit of effort to get them to slot through and meet though. Just a heads up! I've included a link to a couple of photos of where the three riveted plates are for the long pipes and the vertical pipe at the back screwed in holder plate sits along with a before shot of the boot with the bend, I guess you have the originals though to copy anyway, (these are before and after shots from a couple of years ago, 3 years worth of work, off the road for 16 years before that, good luck I'm quite envious it was a lot of fun https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fyv54k4fpak6nvx/AABfs3fAKTZ7W5NLEz3sli5Ya?dl=0. Chris
  8. cj79


    OK thanks for the advice, i'll take it out this weekend weather permitting and let you know the outcome. It's not really bad just seems a little underpowered and generally rough. Hope its just the sparks. Many thanks, Chris
  9. cj79

    My TR6 Photo

    Looks similar but a lot better than mine when it rolled out of the garage after 16 years (attached).. although before I put it in the garage it had spent 10 years on grass on a welsh hillside at my grandfathers farm... Next image is 3 years later.. took a hell of a lot of work but very rewarding!
  10. cj79


    I realise by posting this I will never be allowed back into this forum but here goes... I have NEVER done this before, but there is a first time for everything.. basically I was very distracted due to 3 or 4 things that happened yesterday, coupled with the lock on my fuel cap jamming for about 5 minutes when I was late for a wedding (as best man), got the lock open, turned around and thought to myself 'i'm driving the TR, so get the hi octane stuff' - my regular driver is a diesel.... you can see where i'm going with this.. Anyway I put about 5 litres in before I realised what I was doing.. it was almost empty and given the situation I had no choice but to fill the remained with unleaded and hope it diluted the diesel enough. A 7 mile smokey (gentle) journey to the wedding and back to the garage I drained the whole lot out and filled up full of unleaded.. I've done about 5 miles since and it's not quite right. First thing i'm going to look at is the sparks, then fuel filter, both easy to replace. Then I guess if it hasn't improved have the (2 week old) metering unit checked out, is there anything else anyone can suggest? without laughing? Many thanks, Chris
  11. The PRV is pretty easy to dismantle and clean up, just remove the circlip at the top and work your way back. Mine was seized inside after being laid up for 16 years, a little tinkering and polishing of the internal components and it worked perfectly again. I wish i'd looked at it before trying the new fuel pump and blowing the diaphragm in my old MU though..
  12. cj79

    Possible Fuel Issue

    I don't think there should be a vacuum leak as everything is almost new (including the filter so I think that rules out disconnecting the pipe from the air box too), I'll check both though. In terms of engine timing, i've got it set to 11btdc as per the instructions for the fast road cam I had put in, I checked the timing with the strobe yesterday and it's right on the line. I can try backing it off a fraction and see what results I get though, i'll let you know if this afternoon is as sunny as yesterday Cheers
  13. Hi All, I've just got my Historic Status so got the car out on the road this last weekend.. I put brand new sparks in before starting this year, the MU was brand new last year and setup by Malcolm Jones, engine is completely restored professionally, all fuel lines (inc tank) are brand new last year. The problem is, I'm replacing the sparks every couple of months (I know I could clean them but they're not expensive and it's easier to put in new ones) .. they are getting heavily sooted up to the point where I can't get the engine to fire, the car pulls well to about 4.5k revs then seems to top out in each gear, when I floor it there is a momentary loss of power before it takes off, there is a popping coming from unburnt fuel in the exhaust on lift off, umm.. what else.. I've checked the enrichment lever returns completely to its off position and the car runs fairly well with no choke after a couple of mins, it's taking a lot of cranking to start each time though, all the hoses and brake servo etc are brand new, injectors are brand new replacements for the dodgy leaking ones I got on eBay originally (new ones are from Moss). Does any of this sound like multiple symptoms of a common problem I could look for or would it be best to just get the car to TRBitz and be done with looking? Many thanks, Chris
  14. I meant condenser not compressor btw
  15. Hi All I've had to do some work on the brakes of the daily driver so moved the TR6 out of the garage this morning, it took a good minute or two of cranking to get the engine to fire, then just now when I was trying to move it I can't get it started.. It's a completely rebuilt engine, new points, new compressor, new fuel system including Bosch pump, I can hear the pump running fine and there is a good spray to all 6 injectors. I'm thinking sparks, I've had problems ever since I got it back together last year with sooty spark plugs but these are only a few months old. I guess it's running rich but I had the MU serviced by Malcolm at prestige injection so i'm at a bit of a loss, (the choke does return correctly, I checked that as well..) I'll have to wait til tomorrow to get the sparks out as its getting dark soon and I need to get the front discs back on the bmw before tomorrow am. If anyone can think of another reason for it not starting properly (it is timed correctly, MU is brand new as well so diaphragm should be fine) i'd really appreciate some advice? Thanks Chris
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