TR Paul Posted September 29, 2014 Report Share Posted September 29, 2014 Evening chaps. I had a very enjoyable trip to Brands Hatch at the weekend, to watch the HSCC racing,in Troy, my '70 TR6. However my weekend was slightly marred (luckily within 4 miles from home, in Bournemouth) when a nasty clunking noise started from the rear of Troy. I thought it might be the usual driveshaft/UJ issues, but, upon investigation, I found that the front mounting plate on the diff unit has broken. Obviously,the diff unit will need to be removed,& the offending plate removed/replaced. Does anybody have any good tips or advice on this job; is it better to replace,rather than repair the plate? If so, who makes/sells the best plates, or are they all the same? Is it essential to remove the (factory spec) silencer & the rear exhaust pipes? Anything else that the manuals don't tell you about? Your wisdom will be much appreciated! Many thanks, Paul. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
openroad Posted September 30, 2014 Report Share Posted September 30, 2014 Hi Paul, i had my front o/s mounting pin broken, i used a moss replacement kit, which did the job...best done on a lift if you can. I also checked the other mounts and the rear n/s was cracked so that was re-enforced too....these are the usual culprits ! As for removing the exhaust, i have a twin pipe and removed it for ease of access. Cheers, Conrad. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted September 30, 2014 Report Share Posted September 30, 2014 If you mean the plate that bolts to the front of the diff then i have the same issue. Mine is cracked along a weld someone has used to repair it in the past. Not sure how to proceed. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted September 30, 2014 Report Share Posted September 30, 2014 Funny how this is starting to happen more frequently. A combination of age and poorer road maintenance perhaps. Should be weldable with some extra reinforcement - there is plenty of room in that area. Mine sheared and I replaced it with another, but I did note that replacements were quite hard to find. If you don't plan on welding it yourself, find a local engineer who can assess the break and design suitable reinforcement, not just some bloke with a mig. You will have to remove the exhaust otherwise you'll struggle to get to the drive shaft flange bolts removed and be forever swearing at it. Probably a good point to check the chassis mounts too. When mine broke I thought it was a rare one-off and just replaced it - having heard of a lot more fracturing since I will remove it again and reinforce it. Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted September 30, 2014 Report Share Posted September 30, 2014 Drill both ends of the Crack to stop it Running before Welding and then Reinforce,your other problem will be the Diff Mounting Pins these will need Checking and if not reinforced you need to get them done. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR Paul Posted October 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 Thanks for all the info; I think I will buy a new mounting plate. Obviously , this will be a good opportunity inspect the mountings on the chassis, and also to paint/waxoyl that area of the car, which is usually difficult to get at, whilst the diff is in situ. Also, I can get the (leaky) front pinion oil seal changed at the same time the front plate is being changed. Best wishes, Paul. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elclem1 Posted October 2, 2014 Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 Hi Paul, unfortunately there is a bit more to this problem than you can see from underneath, I have repaired several of these and the best way is with the body off! This is because not only does the bracket crack but so can the bridge, quite significantly. The best repairs in my humble opinion are to replace the old bracket and pin with new, box in the sides and plate the top of the bridge. I have found in the past that it is the LH rear and RH front that cause the problems, I repair all four at the same times so that the problem does not reoccur. Â It is possible to replace and repair with the body in situ, but I order to check the top of the bridge where the pin passes through and for anymore cracking, you will need to cut a hole in the rear deck behind the seats for access. Â Moss used to have a kit you could buy but not sure if it is still available. Â I hope that this helps if you need anymore info please ask, but I am sure there will be lots of more sound advice inbound for some of the TR gurus on the forum. Good luck Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR Paul Posted October 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 Thanks Andy, sounds like I'll need the good luck! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Moss re-enforcing kits are still available Part No 140009K and 147400RK. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR Paul Posted October 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2014 Many thanks, for all the responses to my query. I've now got the diff off, and I can't find any problems with the chassis or mounting studs (which look like they've been uprated by a P.O.).I've bought a new mounting plate, and I've had that fitted to the diff by my friendly local garage. However, I now have one problem: In my eagerness to remove & clean up the diff, I've unbolted the rear mounting rubbers, & in a 'blonde moment', I didn't make a note of which way 'round the should be fitted... D'oh!!! Is it flat side up, or rounded side up? Many thanks from your slightly dim friend, Paul. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted October 13, 2014 Report Share Posted October 13, 2014 No Idea, and I'm not crawling under to take a look right now. The parts diagrams show it as flat side up attached from underneath. http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID600115 Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted October 13, 2014 Report Share Posted October 13, 2014 Flat side up and make sure the Centre Bush is still bonded to the Rubber as that could be part of your problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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