riverstar Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 I am re-bushing my suspension and have noticed that my fulcrum bracket is of the single stud type and have read that it is advisable to replace with the two stud version. The plate welded to the chassis has two horizontal holes and I assume that this is where I would bolt the bracket however this would in effect move the center of the brackets slightly to he left, is this something I need to compensate for or am I worrying needlessly Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 The two stud version of the bracket has the studs aligned vertically so you will need to measure and drill a new hole below the existing one to mount the new bracket. Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 You can use the existing bracket and drill another hole through both pieces. Fasten with an ordinary nut and bolt. However getting a spanner on the bolt head with the arms in place is difficult. If you put a star-washer under the bolt head then it will do up from the nut side. These fulcrum points need to be checked carefully for fatigue cracks and maybe reinforced a bit. The design is a bit poor really. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 If you buy new two stud brackets then be aware that some of the new ones have two bolt heads inside and will need them grinding down a little to stop the wishbone fouling on rotation. The original factory modified two stud brackets had one flat headed stud and one bolt. It amazes me how many 4a`s are still turning up with unmodified brackets. I have done 3 in the last couple of years. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 (edited) When I posted about this on a USA forum, hardly anybody seemed to know about this and they went off to check. Quite a few banana shaped bolts turned up. I am always glad when this topic resurfaces from time to time. The fundamental rule is that anything with one fixing point will get loose. Edited April 20, 2014 by AlanT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR4A1965 Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 Hi, I fitted the CTM chassis strengthening kit. There are some pictures here. Best Paul. http://tr4a.weebly.com/chassis-strengthening-kit-welding.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites
riverstar Posted April 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 I was only aware of this when I was looking at the Moss catalogue Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 When one considers the strength of the suspension mountings on the TR2/3/4, the design for the IRS cars is awful. I recollect that when I was Technical Editor, I started to receive reports of collapsing front suspensions on TR4As in the mid- to late 1970s. To think that some IRS cars are being driven around nowadays without the VITAL modifications necessary to stop collapse of the front suspension, is quite chastening. The rear end on the IRS cars is almost equally bad as regards mountings for semi-trailing arms, differential and shock absorbers. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndrewMAshton Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 (edited) [Hello, when you have both front and rear suspension stripped down don't forget to fit plates at the back of the chassis behind the nut heads to spread the load, I learned the hard (and expensive) way, and my chassis was a CTM chass only 10 years old, cheers, Andrew Edited April 21, 2014 by AndrewMAshton Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 [Hello, when you have both front and rear suspension stripped down don't forget to fit plates at the back of the chassis behind the nut heads to spread the load, I learned the hard (and expensive) way, and my chassis was a CTM chass only 10 years old, cheers, Andrew IMGP0030.JPG That is the rear trailing arm mounting by the looks of it. I would have thought that type of damage must have been the result of a heavy contact with a kerb or something. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
riverstar Posted April 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 Thanks for the advice I have ordered a strengthening kit from Moss, Ian mentions that the rear mountings are equally as bad is there anything I should consider doing at that end? Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndrewMAshton Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 Chris, see photo I posted earlier in the thread, plates behind the nuts holding the brackets to the chassis, they help spread the load, Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 In addition to the mountings for the semi-trailing arms: - Inspect to see whether the differential housing is breaking away from the chassis. - Inspect to see whether the bracketry holding the lever arm shock absorbers (rear suspension!) is showing signs of cracks. These are well-known problems and fixes are available from all the usual suppliers. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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