Kevin Warrington Posted December 21, 2006 Report Share Posted December 21, 2006 Santa has brought me a new interior trim kit for my 6. He's delivered it a few days early!! I'm struggling with removing the existing door trims, so looking for help. According to the factory manual in 76.34.01, it tells me to "depress the bezel and push out the pin" for both the window winder and and door handle. I've depressed the bezel as hard as I can with my fingers, but can't find any pin. It's hard to see from the diagram whether pin is in the bezel or in the handles (I suspect the latter). Assumming that there's someone here who's done this before, what am I doing wrong? Am I looking in the right place, even? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobinTR6 Posted December 21, 2006 Report Share Posted December 21, 2006 Santa has brought me a new interior trim kit for my 6. He's delivered it a few days early!! I'm struggling with removing the existing door trims, so looking for help. According to the factory manual in 76.34.01, it tells me to "depress the bezel and push out the pin" for both the window winder and and door handle. I've depressed the bezel as hard as I can with my fingers, but can't find any pin. It's hard to see from the diagram whether pin is in the bezel or in the handles (I suspect the latter). Assumming that there's someone here who's done this before, what am I doing wrong? Am I looking in the right place, even? The pin is in the square shaft that the bezel and winder attach to.YES its !"£$% difficult to see and may be pushed into side of the square shaft or top. Best to seperate the bezel and door card with something very firm , large screwdriver. I used a large magnet as it gets the card well out of the way and creates enough space to see the pin, once seen you can push it out with a nail or other suitable tool. By the way, they are even harder to repalce. Its just a fiddle so perservere Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted December 21, 2006 Report Share Posted December 21, 2006 Kevin, the plastic ring is spring loaded and you should be able to pusch it towards the panel, you might push a pair of screwdrivers between the handle and the ring. The pin goes through the centre part of the crank and the winder axle. In general the plastic ring prevents it to fall out. Depending on the position of the crank you could rotate it to discover the pin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rarbowman Posted December 21, 2006 Report Share Posted December 21, 2006 Before you put the winder and door handles back, check previous threads on the forum, because there are some very good methods listed. They can be a nightmare to fit if you are a locating pin virgin!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianhoward Posted December 21, 2006 Report Share Posted December 21, 2006 Hi Kevin In addition to the advice already given, I would also suggest making sure that the handle is replaced in the 'correct' (most desirable) orientation - It is a pain in the leg (literally!) if when the window is all the way down or all the way up (most likely positions?) that the winder knob presses into ones leg. As for removong the pins, I have always used a small screwdriver (Jewelers) and replaced with long nosed pliers... Best Wishes for Chrismas and the New Year! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pinky Posted December 21, 2006 Report Share Posted December 21, 2006 Santa has brought me a new interior trim kit for my 6. He's delivered it a few days early!! I'm struggling with removing the existing door trims, so looking for help. According to the factory manual in 76.34.01, it tells me to "depress the bezel and push out the pin" for both the window winder and and door handle. I've depressed the bezel as hard as I can with my fingers, but can't find any pin. It's hard to see from the diagram whether pin is in the bezel or in the handles (I suspect the latter). Assuming that there's someone here who's done this before, what am I doing wrong? Am I looking in the right place, even? First time I have tried to help some one hear goes The job is hell on earth. I have tried several different ways, but the best was-- make a small template out of hardboard this depresses the plastic and spring. I made two, the thickness can be increased to push it back as far as possible, I then got an 1/8 diameter bar, measured the pin that fits in the handle, drilled a hole in the top of the bar(small hole) tightened the pin in the bar with a small taping hammer so it holds with out falling out. Hold this with one hand and a torch with the other and pray Good advise prefit the handle if fitted wrong it hurts your knee. If the holes are good in the handle and square pin this should make the job easier, Would like to no if any body has drilled and tapped from the top of the handle or thought of something even better. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jemgee Posted December 21, 2006 Report Share Posted December 21, 2006 The best advice from an earlier post was to use a welding rod or a galv wire coat hanger straightened out. Cut 3/4 of the way through with a hacksaw to the pin length and you can then do away with the long nose pliers and insert into the hole and a quick flick backwards and forwards breaks it off. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted December 22, 2006 Report Share Posted December 22, 2006 Would like to no if any body has drilled and tapped from the top of the handle or thought of something even better. Oh yes. I got so fed up with the daft design of these things I drilled the handles and tapped the spindles fitting them with a button head polished stainless allen bolt. Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Warrington Posted December 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2006 Many thanks for all the advice. It looked like such a simple job... I shall spend the day cursing and swearing in the garage, I expect. This is one of those jobs that has just grown and grown (don't they always?). There was nothing wrong with the interior trim in the first place - we just found the seats to be uncomfortable and are updating them with some new leather ones. But as you can't get these in shadow blue, I was told by the one who normally sits in the passenger seat that the rest of the interior would need to be changed to match. Seasons greetings to all K Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Wyn Posted December 22, 2006 Report Share Posted December 22, 2006 Hi Kevnw I carried out this task a few months ago, not much fun. I would forget trying to get pins back in, I agree that a coathanger or welding rod is a good bet, I used a nail as I had a galvanized one of the correct size handy, cut though most of it which also enabled me to angle it fo suit, and filed down the head. I also found it impossible to use the standard size springs and had to cut them down a little, the previous owner hadn't used any springs!. Good luck Wyn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted December 22, 2006 Report Share Posted December 22, 2006 Kewin, If the new panels are made out of cardboard it's wise to cover them on the inside with a plastic self-adhesive foil, this will prevent damp penetrating the cardboard. When removing the old ones you will probably see that they are water stained and also notice that the panels are a little out of shape. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Warrington Posted December 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2006 what a nightmare job! I spent most of yesterday removing the two handles. The door handle pin came out quite easily, but the window winder was a disaster. The pin came loose without too much trouble, but got wedged between the locating hole and the rim of the handle. It took two of us, three screwdrivers and two pair of pliers to eventually remove it. The door trim then came off without too much effort. Fortunately, the doors had also been lined with plastic, so had kept waterproof. Then came the task of installing the new trim. I've taken trims off and replaced them on other cars, but always put back the trims that came off (you can probably see where this is leading!). I could get most, but never all, the clips to align with the holes. Fearing that I was going to make a total hash of the whole job and in any case not be satisfied with my ham fisted attempts, I'm going to admit my limits and get the trim kit installed professionally. We have a good trimmer close by who repaired the hood for me last year (I ripped the zip in the rear window). The chap that runs the place did an apprenticeship workiing for a Triumph dealer and retrims things like Ferraris. It'll all be worth it in the end... Meanwhile, the new leather seats that we ordered from the TR Shop have also arrived. Very impressed - good quality leather, lots of padding and a good pattern match for the original TR seats. The bit that you sit on is longer, so more leg support as well. I think I'll limit my efforts to tidying some of the wiring and reinstalling the radio. At least I know what I'm doing with electrickery stuff K Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.