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Morning 

My 59 TR3A has seen fit to develop a clutch problem.

Trying to pull away there is virtually no forward momentum even at 2k rpm and the clutch pedal almost completely up.

Having initially thought it was the slave cylinder, I got my partner to sit in the car and depress the clutch pedal whist I observed the movement from the slave.....looked pretty healthy to me, moving the rod backwards about 2 and a half inches. 

Does this sound like complete clutch failure/bell housing off territory? 

Many thanks 

Clive

 

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Have you got an overdrive box?

Stuart.

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Have you got any free movement of the slave cylinder rod with pedal fully up ? There should be.

Bob

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1 hour ago, Smithfire67 said:

Morning 

My 59 TR3A has seen fit to develop a clutch problem.

Trying to pull away there is virtually no forward momentum even at 2k rpm and the clutch pedal almost completely up.

Having initially thought it was the slave cylinder, I got my partner to sit in the car and depress the clutch pedal whist I observed the movement from the slave.....looked pretty healthy to me, moving the rod backwards about 2 and a half inches. 

Does this sound like complete clutch failure/bell housing off territory? 

Many thanks 

Clive

 

What have you been fixing since the car worked perfectly?

I’d start by looking at what you may have touched or adjusted.

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9 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

What have you been fixing since the car worked perfectly?

I’d start by looking at what you may have touched or adjusted.

The only related thing I have done is top up the clutch/brake fluid by about an inch.

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1 minute ago, Smithfire67 said:

The only related thing I have done is top up the clutch/brake fluid by about an inch.

That rules out improvements by owner.

is it you that is operating the clutch?   I had an issue where a driver of an automatic pulled the gearstick until resistance was felt and released the brake, the clutch was not being used at all, hence not in gear.

Back to the suggestion Bob made.  Check there is free play on the clutch slave push rod in accordance with the service instructions.

Is the overdrive de selected as in OFF.

Are you trying to go forward or reverse?    Try forward only, the overdrive may be sticking.

Have tried rolling the car forward and backwards by a yard in each direction?

Does the car move at all when the clutch is released?   If not, push it forward or backward by a foot so a different tooth in the axle crown wheel is engaged with the pinion..  If it now drives but goes thump/clonk the axle needs looking inside.  

When it moves are there any abnormal noises?

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27 minutes ago, Smithfire67 said:

Yep has overdrive

Drastic and unusual but it is possible to lose final drive with a broken O/D clutch.

Stuart.

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6 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

That rules out improvements by owner.

is it you that is operating the clutch?   I had an issue where a driver of an automatic pulled the gearstick until resistance was felt and released the brake, the clutch was not being used at all, hence not in gear.

Back to the suggestion Bob made.  Check there is free play on the clutch slave push rod in accordance with the service instructions.

Is the overdrive de selected as in OFF.

Are you trying to go forward or reverse?    Try forward only, the overdrive may be sticking.

Have tried rolling the car forward and backwards by a yard in each direction?

Does the car move at all when the clutch is released?   If not, push it forward or backward by a foot so a different tooth in the axle crown wheel is engaged with the pinion..  If it now drives but goes thump/clonk the axle needs looking inside.  

When it moves are there any abnormal noises?

The only movement was about 5 inches forward with clutch nearly all the way up....pushed it back into shed in neutral.

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6 minutes ago, Smithfire67 said:

The only movement was about 5 inches forward with clutch nearly all the way up....pushed it back into shed in neutral.

When you say clutch "Nearly" all the way up what happens with it all the way up?

Stuart.

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11 minutes ago, stuart said:

When you say clutch "Nearly" all the way up what happens with it all the way up?

Stuart.

Yes, good point by Stuart.

Clive, start the car engage a gear leave tge hand brake /parking brake on and take your foot completely off the clutch pedal.  Do not rev the engine at all.  The car engine should stall.

Now do the same with the brake off ensuring the car will not hit anything as you release the clutch completely and move your left foot to rest on the  dip switch.   Car should proceed in the direction of the forward or reverse gear that is engaged.   ie  first or reverse.    Be sure you are actually in First and not third.

 

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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28 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Yes, good point by Stuart.

Clive, start the car engage a gear leave tge hand brake /parking brake on and take your foot completely off the clutch pedal.  Do not rev the engine at all.  The car engine should stall.

Now do the same with the brake off ensuring the car will not hit anything as you release the clutch completely and move your left foot to rest on the  dip switch.   Car should proceed in the direction of the forward or reverse gear that is engaged.   ie  first or reverse.    Be sure you are actually in First and not third.

 

I'll try this approach on Friday when I've got a bit of time.....what is your inclination? 

Many thanks 

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1 hour ago, Smithfire67 said:

I'll try this approach on Friday when I've got a bit of time.....what is your inclination? 

Many thanks 

When you post your findings then we maybe able have a better guess.

Stuart.

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3 minutes ago, Smithfire67 said:

Is that the one on the outside of the bell housing?

Nope, the one inside.  But check all the things suggested by the others before you start removing the gearbox.

Rgds Ian

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37 minutes ago, Ian Vincent said:

I'd be worried that the pin in the clutch operating arm has sheared.

Rgds Ian :(

If it had then he wouldnt be able to get it in gear in the first place. This is no drive through.

Stuart.

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Of course the other thing is it could be one of those six rivet clutch plates finally surfacing after these years. They sheared the centre out so no drive.

Stuart.

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39 minutes ago, Smithfire67 said:

Bloody Hell! What was the failure mode on those little buggers?

Clive

Many years ago there was a batch of clutch plates where the centre portion of the plate was only held in with I think 6 rivets (Not on the thread that Marco linked to but another time) these would part company and leave you with no drive at all. One of our members got stuck in Greece due to it IIRC. I thought that we had seen the last of them as it was quite a few years ago but it maybe thats what you have.

Stuart.

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The „3 rivets clutch“ was on my mate Wolfgang‘s TR6 and it did not fail.

Shure because he loves more to own this car than to drive it.

He installed it by his own 25 (?) years ago and we noticed this when he changed the clutch cover from B&B new design to a NOS Laycock.

Luckily this was without consequences for him.

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1 hour ago, Z320 said:

The „3 rivets clutch“ was on my mate Wolfgang‘s TR6 and it did not fail.

Shure because he loves more to own this car than to drive it.

He installed it by his own 25 (?) years ago and we noticed this when he changed the clutch cover from B&B new design to a NOS Laycock.

Luckily this was without consequences for him.

Thats a totally different style to the problem ones, they had the outer rim with the lining material as a separate piece only held to the centre boss by six rivets. The one your referring to doesnt have that as its a one piece main inner plate but the centre boss is held on by three rivets.

Stuart.

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