mleadbeater Posted January 14 Report Share Posted January 14 (edited) After much pondering, I’ve just managed to reliably measure my 6’s crank end float. No removing any components necessary, and only taking a few minutes. I used my DTI magnetic base, first removing the screwed-in pillar , and using a couple of magnets and a short length of steel bar. The base was attached to the rim of the pulley, making sure it wasn’t touching the timing cover, and the plunger placed to bear on the timing cover. Measurement was made by levering the crank pulley, by the fan centre boss , not the pulley which is rubber-mounted if I am correct, and therefore prone to movement of the rubber independently and possibly giving a false reading. The measurement came out at 10 thou, a little over the spec of up to 8 thou, so maybe a job to replace in the spring. Hope this is of interest, Mike. Ps. does anyone have the inside and outside diameter of the thrust bearings? , I wad thinking of turning some on my lathe from phosphor bronze, I have some in stock which may be large enough. Thanks. Edited January 14 by mleadbeater addition Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jonny TR6 Posted January 14 Report Share Posted January 14 I do love a good solution with a dial gauge - nice work Mike. Will give that a go myself, although I think my mounting solution will be a lot more convoluted than yours, given the lack of suitable bar and magnets. Mind you, I have a pusher style electric fan, so a lot more room to work with. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted January 14 Report Share Posted January 14 (edited) Pm me your address and I can loan you a set but want them back. I have a new set from Racetorations which are deeper so I will measure them when next in the garage. Regards Harry. P.S. I turned up a shorter rod to mount my DTI and clears the rad.Mine was 8 thou so just in tolerance. Edited January 15 by harrytr5 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave McDonald Posted January 14 Report Share Posted January 14 I measured crank end float on my TR6 race engine last week but engine was out of car ready for a refresh before start of new season, so much easier to position DTI. End float 10 thou so will need new thrust washers. It has a mod using Pinto washers. Dave McD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dingle Posted January 18 Report Share Posted January 18 Mike-The thrust washers are 3.047" OD and 2.588" ID. Berry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mleadbeater Posted January 19 Author Report Share Posted January 19 Thanks, Berry , thats great. Dave, your Pinto washers? can you post some more details, maybe a photo, please. Any comments on using phosphor bronze bearings? cheers Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dingle Posted January 19 Report Share Posted January 19 Mike-I am guessing that the bronze alloy thrust washers made by Scott Helms (custom thrust washers) are either phosphor bronze or silicon bronze). Berry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jonny TR6 Posted January 20 Report Share Posted January 20 Checked mine today - 6 thou, so all good. Having the fan at the front of the rad was a godsend. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted January 21 Report Share Posted January 21 (edited) 18 hours ago, Jonny TR6 said: Checked mine today - 6 thou, so all good. Having the fan at the front of the rad was a godsend. Hi Jonny, all good, just a question: you fitted the magnetic foot of the end of the crankshaft and the gauge is on the end red arm with the pin of the gauge touching the timing cover? Ciao, Marco Edited January 21 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jonny TR6 Posted January 21 Report Share Posted January 21 Hi Marco - the magnetic base is on the cross member and the gauge tip is on the pulley. The method you mention would probably work as well, but using the cross member gives a more stable platform. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted January 21 Report Share Posted January 21 Hi Jonny, I tell you the truth: I have been „afraid“ you used the crossmember…. This way you measure the float of the crankshaft PLUS the movement of the engine on its mounts. You must be very sensible to avoid pulling / pushing the hole engine. Please see Mike‘s photo. Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jonny TR6 Posted January 21 Report Share Posted January 21 I was levering the pulley against the timing chain cover, so theoretically the engine won’t move at all, as it’s equal forces in opposite directions ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted January 21 Report Share Posted January 21 (edited) With your results of 6 thou you don’t have to worry, my dissent would be an explanation if you worry about the reason of too much float. But for a result without doubts you have the install the magnetic foot on the engine. To overdo your solid crossmember- theory (sorry me): why don’t you fix the gauge on the garage floor? Ciao, Marco Edited January 21 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jonny TR6 Posted January 21 Report Share Posted January 21 35 minutes ago, Z320 said: To overdo your solid crossmember- theory (sorry me): why don’t you fix the gauge on the garage floor? Ciao, Marco Unfortunately my garage floor is tiled rather than iron, so the base wouldn’t be stable. I could drill and screw it down I suppose… Even if I did go to those lengths, just pulling the pulley would mean movement in the suspension, tyres, engine mounts etc. so there would need to be an equal and opposite force applied - levering the pulley against the timing chain cover. You’re not my wife in disguise are you Marco ?! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted January 21 Report Share Posted January 21 Yes, it’s me, your wife Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jonny TR6 Posted January 21 Report Share Posted January 21 58 minutes ago, Z320 said: Yes, it’s me, your wife Thought so. You said you were playing tennis ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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