Which replacement clutch would you get (&why)

[Steve-B]

Hi all,

I need to replace a wonky clutch shaft & fork so while in there will replace CRB and clutch. The fork has been broken and bodged earlier in my cars’ life though a guess is the clutch has been the original (as the previous owner’s ledger book doesn’t show it being replaced in 60,000 miles).
I can get locally an original Laycock or a Borg and Beck. Clearly the former is quite expensive and the latter <~1/3rd the price. 
 

So I’m curious what’s the general consensus, if any on which one to do? Thanks in advance for your advice!

Edited December 16, 2023 by Steve-B

[stuart]

Have your original rebuilt, thats what we do. https://precisionclutch.co.uk/

Stuart.

[Steve-B]

1 hour ago, stuart said:

Have your original rebuilt, thats what we do. https://precisionclutch.co.uk/

Stuart.

How long does the service take Stuart?

[rcreweread]

1 hour ago, Steve-B said:

How long does the service take Stuart?

Steve - when I've had then done, typically 1-2 weeks

Cheers Rich

[Hamish]

This is what is fitted in my 3a ( Pete cox converted the flywheel for me)and it has stood up to some very serious abuse in several years of sprints, hill climbs and road use. - probably significantly more stresses than “normal” road user use 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 17, 2023 by Hamish

[Andy Moltu]

Mine was back from precision clutch components within the same week. (Including return postage from Leicestershire to Somerset)

The alternative is to fit the Sachs clutch cover from a Saab/Rover Sdi, a Helix or AP driven plate and a Koyo/Toyota bearing. The Helix/APmay be more expensive and probably overkill unless tuned significantly. Definitely go with the bearing as the here are still issues with some RHP/ equivalents.

Never go for an uprated regular clutch cover unless you have the legs of a mule. 

[Tim D.]

Fitted the Sachs unit from the  Saab and seems to work well. Handles the extra torque of the supercharger better than the standard b&b which slipped. 

Tim

[Steve-B]

I spoke with Precision today and have a good feeling they’re right for the work based on Stuart’s recommendation. Once we get the engine out late March I believe I’ll send to them.  I’d rather recondition an original part if I can for prominence if possible. 
 

[Z320]

Hi Steve,

there are several different clutch covers needing different force to press.

Their construction is mostly the same, the different forces are the result of different strong diaphragm springs.

Thanks to Jochem, he checked them „all“ on a measurement press at his company laboratory during our clutch/release bearing project.

Which one do you use, have you been pleased with it? Where do you want to go?

Ciao, Marco 

[Z320]

Btw, my recommendation for a standard TR4A-TR6 is:

- B&B clutch cover (which is an AP) „new design“

- RHP release bearing on a not spinning bronze carrier

- 0.625" master cylinder (more pressure)

- adjustable push rod like on the 4 cylinders makes sense on a TR6

I have been very pleased this way and I guess Tim D. is still pleased too 

(but with the stronger Sachs clutch cover).

Ciao, Marco

Edited December 19, 2023 by Z320