Question re: Clear Hooters wiper switch

[BlairP]

Hello everyone. I'm approaching the end of my rebuild project, and in buttoning up the electrical system, have come across a problem with the original wiper switch on my '69.

I know the Clear Hooters switches were problematic, but I would like to fix this if I could, as the switch itself seems to be in really good shape. The problem is this: The copper rocker contact in the interior on which the outer rocker switch acts, and which determines off, slow, or fast speed, seems very loose on its pivot, so I have to work quite hard to get to the balance point where the wipers stop. Normally, the centre position is off, with top and bottom the wiper speeds. However, I have to find a balance point somewhere between bottom and centre to stop the wipers, and I fear once I'm on the road, one good bump will put paid to that. The loose pivot seems to prevent the copper rocker from coming to rest in the offer position.

Any ideas on how to address this issue? 

Thanks in advance, and regards to all,

Blair

[RogerH]

Hi Blair,

I think you will find that due to there very simple construction that it will be unrepairable.

I have taken the three pin switch apart and was amazed at the ingenuity to make it so simple. But, alas, it could not be repaired.

I assume that the 4 pin is much the same.

They do come apart -  The main body pushes out of the bezel. And then the side walls can be gently prised apart to flip the rocker out.

You should then be able to see what is/isn't happening.

I wouldn't waste your money on  an Ebay special as they are also iffy.

The Lucas replacement works well but needs work to fit it.

 

Roger

[Waldi]

Try, as a quick attempt, to squirt some contact cleaner in there, it may free up thinks.

If not repairable and if you are lucky, you can buy a new OEM one, I can tell from experience, these work very good, and it should outlast me.

Waldi

[BlairP]

On 12/7/2023 at 6:39 PM, Waldi said:

Try, as a quick attempt, to squirt some contact cleaner in there, it may free up thinks.

If not repairable and if you are lucky, you can buy a new OEM one, I can tell from experience, these work very good, and it should outlast me.

Waldi

Waldi, I did put some contact cleaner in, and it only loosened the switch's action. The looseness is in fact the problem: It doesn't need freeing, the contact needs tightening! And I've looked everywhere for an OEM part. Not sure any exist any more...

[Waldi]

Blair, I was hoping you would “free” the little metal spring inside the switch which provides the positive feel. Apparently not.

I bought a NOS 3 months abo through Ebay from someone in Austria, but he told me he bought them from a person in the UK.

Waldi

PS:
There is one NOS for sale overhere in Holland from a TRCH member I know well (and trust), PM me if you are interested with your email address.

 

Edited December 9, 2023 by Waldi
Switch for sale

[RogerH]

9 minutes ago, Waldi said:

Blair, I was hoping you would “free” the little metal spring inside the switch which provides the positive feel. Apparently not.

I bought a NOS 3 months abo through Ebay from someone in Austria, but he told me he bought them from a person in the UK.

Waldi

PS:
There is one NOS for sale over here in Holland from a TRCH member I know well (and trust), PM me if you are interested with your email address.

 

Using the info I have when dismantling a three pin Clear Hooter switch there is a spring loaded ball that moves across the copper contact plates to activate the two positions.

Water can and does get into the switch. This causes the spring to seize and the ball drops out of its fixture.

Try and dismantle as I have suggested above and you may be able to clean and re-assemble.

Roger

[PodOne]

From memory the 3 pin washer and 4 pin wiper ones I have dismantled and repaired the spring sits inside a nylon "cup" with a rounded ball on its tip which flips the copper/brass sea saw contacts. You can try a slightly longer spring to get them to work but as I found its a long trial and error process to get one to reliably work. Or make a new nylon retainer with a slightly bigger ball. The 3 pins seem easier to fix.

While your at it the plastic hinge pin holes are usually worn or cracked which is why I suspect they fail but can be repaired using brass tube/wire insert but you will have to accurately drill the rocker switch so it sits level in the housing.

It can be done but as Roger says  its probably better to fit a modern Lucas repro which look quite good and save a lot of hassle and are a better design. I have two ready when needed!

Andy  

[BlairP]

1 hour ago, Waldi said:

Blair, I was hoping you would “free” the little metal spring inside the switch which provides the positive feel. Apparently not.

I bought a NOS 3 months abo through Ebay from someone in Austria, but he told me he bought them from a person in the UK.

Waldi

PS:
There is one NOS for sale overhere in Holland from a TRCH member I know well (and trust), PM me if you are interested with your email address.

 

PM sent.

[Waldi]

Hi Blair,

I have just contacted my friend, and have send you an email with all details.

Good luck,

Waldi

[WWT338J]

Agree the Clear Hooters switch is junk and best replaced with the Lucas equivalent even though you will have to enlarge the hole in the metal dash.

If you want to try and fix the original this might help

https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr6-tech-forum.2/the-trouble-with-clear-hooters-part-1.1705274/

David

[Keith66]

Hi All

My switch is original and seems to work but over the years to symbol has worn off.

Not the end of the world has obvs i know what the switches do but it would be good if it looked nicer.

Seems overkill to buy new switches so just a long shot does anyone produce water slide transfers?

If i could put one on then lacquer over it to protect it.

Cheers  Keith

 

 

 

 

[RogerH]

Hi Keith,

if it is the light symbol you need then the TR 4A light switch escutcheon  has symbols that may be of use.

HERE

Have you looked on Ebay

 

Roger

Edited December 27, 2023 by RogerH