TR5 Wooden Fascia Removal

[mbracing]

Hi all

I know the subject it has already discussed, but apart from the basic instructions given in the Workshop Manual there is any specific procedure or tip that could help and/or facilitate the wooden fascia removal?

Many thanks in advance.

mbracing

[PodOne]

Suspect it's very similar to an early 69 TR6.

Before you start disconnect the battery

Disconnect the oil pressure pipe and rev counter cable in the engine bay to give you more slack to pull the fascia forward to get at the smaller dials. If the speedo cable is the "long version" it will be ok to release from the back of the speedo when pulled out of the fascia if not its a fiddle to do with your hand behind the dash while releasing the speedo and rev counter retaining brackets from the rear of the dash or they will prevent removal of the fascia. Remove steering wheel I found it easier to then remove the fascia. 

Removing the speedo first gives easier access to the rev counter.

Have fun!

Andy

 

[mbracing]

12 hours ago, PodOne said:

Suspect it's very similar to an early 69 TR6.

Before you start disconnect the battery

Disconnect the oil pressure pipe and rev counter cable in the engine bay to give you more slack to pull the fascia forward to get at the smaller dials. If the speedo cable is the "long version" it will be ok to release from the back of the speedo when pulled out of the fascia if not its a fiddle to do with your hand behind the dash while releasing the speedo and rev counter retaining brackets from the rear of the dash or they will prevent removal of the fascia. Remove steering wheel I found it easier to then remove the fascia. 

Removing the speedo first gives easier access to the rev counter.

Have fun!

Andy

 

Thank you a lot!

mbracing

[harrytr5]

I find, remove the drivers seat. Disconnect the battery. Lie down in the footwell and remove wiring/speedo and rev counter cable. remove the  fixing brackets and pull out the rev and speedo. Unscrew the facia (5 screw) unscrew the glovebox  sliding bracket and pull forwards.This will enable you to get at the small gauges. Disconnect the oil pipe and don't forget the sealing leather washer that is in the nut when resembling. I like to change the plastic oil pipe at this stage to a stainless one from Revington TR and it gives you so much wriggle room when refitting. Then just reverse all when refitting.I find LED lights are just great for visual light to see what you are doing when under the dash.

Good luck.

Regards Harry

[MJK]

Ha ............. A second supporter of the drivers seat out and lying down with head in the footwell approach. Removing the steering wheel as well opens things up. Especially if you're less flexible than you once were!!! Otherwise pretty straightforward as Harry outlines.

Malcolm

 

[PodOne]

I feel happier knowing that for now I can do it without removing the seat 

[Phil Read]

Just done mine and sent away for re-veneering. Its a straightforward job. I didnt take the seats out and managed even with my arthritic fingers. I found removing the cowl round the column switches helped. Although the cables are coloured I made taggs from masking tape and put codes on them eg. ammeter righ and left etc. I found putting the dash back harder.

 

[MikeThomas]

23 hours ago, Phil Read said:

Just done mine and sent away for re-veneering. Its a straightforward job. I didnt take the seats out and managed even with my arthritic fingers. I found removing the cowl round the column switches helped. Although the cables are coloured I made taggs from masking tape and put codes on them eg. ammeter righ and left etc. I found putting the dash back harder.

 

Interested to know Phil where you sent the dashboard for re-veneering and what the cost will be.

Best wishes,

Mike

[Phil Read]

4 minutes ago, MikeThomas said:

Interested to know Phil where you sent the dashboard for re-veneering and what the cost will be.

Best wishes,

Mike

Hi Mike I sent it to GDK veneering 07984495373. It was not cheap at £450 and was away about 5 weeks. They were recommended to me and the result is fantastic. I could have bought a new one cheaper but a couple of guys I know bought new and had difficulty getting them to fit properly. When you get your own re-veneered at least you know it fits.

[PodOne]

No disrespect but you could have a new one made for less and it would fit.

I only went that way when a made a mess of lacquer which crazed and I couldn't be bothered starting from scratch. The new one fit straight in no issues. For £450 I'd want the door capping as well! 

But if you like the result fair enough.

[Dave McDonald]

19 hours ago, MikeThomas said:

Interested to know Phil where you sent the dashboard for re-veneering and what the cost will be.

Best wishes,

Mike

Mike,

I used Chapman and Cliff at Nantwich, Cheshire to cut a hole for a clock and repair 2 chips in the walnut veneer of my TR5 dash. Very pleased with results and they will do complete re veneer. 
Tele 01270 842151

Dave McD

[Phil Read]

11 hours ago, PodOne said:

No disrespect but you could have a new one made for less and it would fit.

I only went that way when a made a mess of lacquer which crazed and I couldn't be bothered starting from scratch. The new one fit straight in no issues. For £450 I'd want the door capping as well! 

But if you like the result fair enough.

I dont kow where you can buy a new dash and door cappings for £450, do you?

[MikeThomas]

10 hours ago, Dave McDonald said:

Mike,

I used Chapman and Cliff at Nantwich, Cheshire to cut a hole for a clock and repair 2 chips in the walnut veneer of my TR5 dash. Very pleased with results and they will do complete re veneer. 
Tele 01270 842151

Dave McD

Thanks Dave, very helpful.

[stuart]

43 minutes ago, MikeThomas said:

Thanks Dave, very helpful.

I used to use them for Jaguar dashboard and door top renovations many years ago and they did do a great job.

Stuart.

[MikeThomas]

20 hours ago, stuart said:

I used to use them for Jaguar dashboard and door top renovations many years ago and they did do a great job.

Stuart.

Thanks Stuart.