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Missing Inertia switch


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My 70 CP car has no inertia switch and I can find no evidence of there ever having been one. I assume there would be a pair of wires joined near the wiper motor at least but there's no sign of them. Did all PI cars have them?

I guess I need to start thinking about installing one.

 

Sean

 

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Fitted from body number 51399CP r/hand drive and 52328CP l/hand drive cars so late 1970.

Stuart.

Edited by stuart
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7 hours ago, Macleesh said:

My 70 CP car has no inertia switch and I can find no evidence of there ever having been one. I assume there would be a pair of wires joined near the wiper motor at least but there's no sign of them. Did all PI cars have them?

I guess I need to start thinking about installing one.

 

Sean

 

My 1969 CP didn't have one fitted ex stock but I retro fitted one from an XJ6.  These days I'd certainly  fit a modern , more reliable inertia switch if it was missing.

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I have a 1970 TR6 (no switch) but fitted a new one with a relais to unload the ignition switch.

I bought a new switch from Revington, it came with the special waterproof plug. Off course this is more expensive than a used item, but given the issues reported with old switches on here, that was on easy decision for me.

Waldi

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On 8/23/2023 at 3:33 PM, Waldi said:

I have a 1970 TR6 (no switch) but fitted a new one with a relais to unload the ignition switch.

I bought a new switch from Revington, it came with the special waterproof plug. Off course this is more expensive than a used item, but given the issues reported with old switches on here, that was on easy decision for me.

Waldi

I'll take a look on their website. I've also just fitted a relay having burnt out my ignition switch, saw an improvement from 9.3v to 10.2v across the pump as a result.

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Very good.

When I measured the voltage drop, I did 2 measurements (best done with running engine):

1) Between bolt of the positive connection and body.
It will be a bit less than battery voltage; 10.2V seems low but I have not checked mine for a couple of years.

2) Between the bolt of the negative connection on pump and the body: this will show if you have a proper earthing. It should be close to zero.

In this way, you can check losses in the “feed” and “return” of the electrical system.

Waldi

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10.2 V is rather low and shows you still have a voltage-drop problem. Maybe the wire you have used to feed the pump isn't thick enough?

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