capslow Posted June 28, 2023 Report Share Posted June 28, 2023 'Tr2 leaking rad at the neck .bit of help needed please.iev got a leaking rad so I'm going to remove the apron and tackle it .iev been advised to consider putting on a 6 blade tropical fan while iev got the chance .which sounds like a good idea .does anyone have one they would sell .would a tr6 fan fit .thanks.or should I just stick with the original fan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 28, 2023 Report Share Posted June 28, 2023 I had the leaking filler neck issue and repaired it with a smear of JB Weld Waterweld. https://www.jbweld.com/product/waterweld-epoxy-putty. Just drop the water level, rub down to surface with abrasive paper, wipe clean and apply a big gob of the putty all around tge joint No need to take the apron off unless you think the cooling cores need renewing. It is more accessible if you take the top hose and thermo housing off ( take care with that thermo capillary!). Two bolts + one hose clip, you will need a new gasket. Fans. Threw mine away in 1971 and fitted an electric fan instead. There are other schools of thought on this subject. My ugly repair is still good some years later, I know of a TR4 that had same done in the 1990’s and is still ok. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted June 28, 2023 Report Share Posted June 28, 2023 +1 on both counts. A JB weld repair has now been OK for over 10 years. My original fan broke a blade and had to come off, so fitted a manually-switched electrical 'pusher' which is only needed very rarely in stop-go traffic. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted June 28, 2023 Report Share Posted June 28, 2023 (edited) I have 6 blade Triumph 2000 fans (the tropical fan) on my concours TR2 and on my TR3. Both are special cars for which originality is important. The 6 blade fan is more than adequate even in Australia's summer heat. My daily driver TR2 has a manually operated electric fan. I don't recommend auto fans, if you don't keep an eye on the gauge and the fan fails to come on you can be in serious trouble. You learn quickly to keep an eye on the gauge with a manual fan. The yellow plastic TR6 fan is too thick. I don't think it will fit at all but if it does it will be too close to the radiator and will hit the rad under heavy braking, if not before. The 2000 fan is only about 1/4" from the bottom tank of the radiator but has adequate clearance to the core. Edited June 28, 2023 by John McCormack Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted June 28, 2023 Report Share Posted June 28, 2023 (edited) On 6/28/2023 at 7:40 AM, capslow said: 'Tr2 leaking rad at the neck .bit of help needed please.iev got a leaking rad so I'm going to remove the apron and tackle it .iev been advised to consider putting on a 6 blade tropical fan while iev got the chance .which sounds like a good idea .does anyone have one they would sell .would a tr6 fan fit .thanks.or should I just stick with the original fan Hi - I have a couple of spare tropical fans - have sent you a PM ( personal message) with my contact details Cheers Rich Edited June 29, 2023 by rcreweread Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 29, 2023 Report Share Posted June 29, 2023 Which thermostat housing has your TR2 got? If it is the big early double housing type then the water connection into the radiator is in a different place to all the later ones. early double housing type image. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted June 29, 2023 Report Share Posted June 29, 2023 On 6/28/2023 at 9:27 AM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: I had the leaking filler neck issue and repaired it with a smear of JB Weld Waterweld. https://www.jbweld.com/product/waterweld-epoxy-putty. Just drop the water level, rub down to surface with abrasive paper, wipe clean and apply a big gob of the putty all around tge joint No need to take the apron off unless you think the cooling cores need renewing. It is more accessible if you take the top hose and thermo housing off ( take care with that thermo capillary!). Two bolts + one hose clip, you will need a new gasket. Fans. Threw mine away in 1971 and fitted an electric fan instead. There are other schools of thought on this subject. My ugly repair is still good some years later, I know of a TR4 that had same done in the 1990’s and is still ok. +1 Binned my mechanical fan and extension on the 4A 50+ years ago and replaced with a pushing Kenlowe. Never regretted it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Arrowsmith Posted June 29, 2023 Report Share Posted June 29, 2023 Something I discovered recently with ‘old style’ Kenlowe fans; if you need to, you don’t have to reverse the direction of the motor to make a blower into a sucker! They can be made to blow or suck by inverting the way the impeller fan is fitted on the shaft. One side is marked with arrow ‘s’ and the other arrow ‘b’ (see pics). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted June 29, 2023 Report Share Posted June 29, 2023 Isn't there more to it than that David? In a 'blower' configuration, in order to get the fan close to the radiator the motor body needs to be in front of the fan whereas in 'sucker' the motor body is behind. That means you still have to reverse the direction of rotation. That's why the arrows in your photo point in different directions. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted July 2, 2023 Report Share Posted July 2, 2023 On 6/29/2023 at 3:51 PM, RobH said: Isn't there more to it than that David? In a 'blower' configuration, in order to get the fan close to the radiator the motor body needs to be in front of the fan whereas in 'sucker' the motor body is behind. That means you still have to reverse the direction of rotation. That's why the arrows in your photo point in different directions. On 6/29/2023 at 3:51 PM, RobH said: Isn't there more to it than that David? In a 'blower' configuration, in order to get the fan close to the radiator the motor body needs to be in front of the fan whereas in 'sucker' the motor body is behind. That means you still have to reverse the direction of rotation. That's why the arrows in your photo point in different directions. Quite right Kenlowe error proofed the fitment of the fan blade. it is all moulded into the fan face S for suck and an direction arrow B for blow and a direction arrow. See images below Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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