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Grinnall Rover SD1 back axle


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Steve if you get stuck for answers try the Facebook page here

https://m.facebook.com/groups/202580520111968/

there are a number who sprint v8 that I’m sure would know. I don’t do Facebook but tell  them I sent you. 
 

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On 6/17/2023 at 7:46 PM, steve redway said:

as I have mislaid  my Churchil tool 18G 2.1

 

:DI've always found that either a hammer, a stout screwdriver or sometimes both substitutes quite nicely for almost any Churchill tool!

Jerry

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Hi Steve, I never used the tool. 9 times out of then, it comes out jammed into the end of the pinion extension tube. The rest of the time I just worked it out using light taps of a hammer and blunt screwdriver in the T shaped moulding in the end. Usually only light tapping is needed before it starts popping free. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Peter,

Indeed that is an oil seal remover, but the issue was how to get the oil seal housing out of the back axle.

Anyway the job is done and as such I will update this thread as to the findings and issues. 

The two tools in the Rover SD1 maintenance manual were a Chruchill 18G 2.1 a C shaped adapter that attaches to a groove in the oil seal housing and a Churchill 6321 which is a simple two legged puller that then grips the adapter and removes the oil seal housing. The seal housing itself sits equally in both the axle casing and the pinion extension unit when assembled. 

Remove the pinion extension and the housing will either be retained in the pinion extension or the axle casing. In my case it was the latter. Without the adapter and puller it's a simple matter of a taping a pin punch in the oil seal housing to break the seal (as Wayne mentioned), then remove the housing with suitable oil filter pliers that grip the outside of the housing. The seal can be pushed out on the bench.

The maintenance manual calls for a new seal to be fitted to the housing and the assembly then to be fitted over the pinion sealing surface and axle casing. This is difficult as the seal plus the seal casing enter the axle assembly at the same time. Both have to be lined up together which is difficult working under the vehicle and as such I suggest the following  

Tape up the splined pinion shoulder so that taped surface is a fraction higher than the seal bearing surface. Fit the seal housing into the axle casing, and tap home. Then apply a new, well lubricated seal over the pinion splines centrally into the housing ensuring the lip of the seal does not fold back on itself. Tap home.

For some reason there is a cut out in the bottom of the seal housing and the axle casting at the same point. I am unable to understand what this is for, it just seems to allow axle oil into the pinion extension which serves no purpose and negates the need for the oil seal in the first place. As such I positioned them 180 degrees away on reassembly.

Finally I re-routed the rear brake pipe away from the transmission tunnel where is had already fouled the prop at some point.

Now some further findings on my particular SD1 back axle Grinnall fitment:

There are quite a few oddities, for instance the pinion extension is fitted upside down so that the Mounting bracket - Extension Tube - ULC2322 mounts to the drivers side of the transmission tunnel. The Mounting bracket on my car has been botched by opening one of the holes to allow more vertical movement for some reason. Mine has a nut jammed in the holes to "fix" it's position. Also the pinion extension does not enter the transmission tunnel centrally, hence the prop is very close to the nearside of the tunnel. Maybe the SD1 has a bigger transmission tunnel.

I hope that these findings assist anyone else who has the SD1 back axle on their TR7 and would welcome any feedback.

 

Edited by steve redway
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