triumphted Posted April 29, 2023 Report Share Posted April 29, 2023 Hi all I am a long time member / owner but rarely post on these forums. I am hoping for some advice on my UK 72TR6. it was laid up for winter - tried to drive last week and found no clutch pressure at all. Slave looked as old as me and some fluid under car so I replaced it last night. didn’t have a tube so tried to gravity bleed, with an assistant pumped plenty through and closed nipple with pedal on floor - but found that still have no pressure - fluid pumps through bled valve fine (could it do so if master was faulty) - and I get about less than 5 mm movement from cylinder. Is this simply a bleeding problem or could it be the master as well. The pedal has no pressure at all. thanks in advance and sorry for my ignorance - never bled a clutch before. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 29, 2023 Report Share Posted April 29, 2023 Hi Ted, when you fitted the new cylinder did you make sure the bleed nipple was uppermost.? Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
triumphted Posted April 29, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2023 Will check - the car is at my mums so going there in 30 - thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted April 29, 2023 Report Share Posted April 29, 2023 For best bleeding try and tie the slave cylinder piston back into the slave, this helps to get as much air out as possible. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
triumphted Posted April 29, 2023 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2023 Thanks i am tempted to think this is bleed problem, got my pressure bleed system with me so will give it a go with this. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted April 29, 2023 Report Share Posted April 29, 2023 Make sure as Roger says the slave bleed nipple is at the top above the pipe and are you sure you have put it back exactly as before, ie on the correct/same side of the bell housing as you took it off? Also if you have a new pushrod with the slave, have you compared it in length to the one you took off? Cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
triumphted Posted May 1, 2023 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2023 Hi all I posted a reply from phone but doesn't seen to have uploaded. I had put in the wrong way round, quickly rotated and bled again, and all good. So thanks for the help. Regards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 1, 2023 Report Share Posted May 1, 2023 Result. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stewartgss Posted May 2, 2023 Report Share Posted May 2, 2023 as a newbe to the TR6 experience can anyone tell me if there is a difference between the LHD and RHD clutch master cylinder please? i have a RHD conversion (ex 1970 USA) and dont know which new Master to buy as there seem to be different bores and LHD/RHD versions on the Moss website...i'm confused! thanks all, Stewart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 2, 2023 Report Share Posted May 2, 2023 43 minutes ago, Stewartgss said: as a newbe to the TR6 experience can anyone tell me if there is a difference between the LHD and RHD clutch master cylinder please? i have a RHD conversion (ex 1970 USA) and dont know which new Master to buy as there seem to be different bores and LHD/RHD versions on the Moss website...i'm confused! thanks all, Stewart The fundamental difference RHD to LHD clutch master cylinders on TR6 is the length of the pushrod. RHD is longer. There is a change in bore diameter from 3/4” (0.75”) down to 0.070” around 1972 on all market model TR6. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted May 3, 2023 Report Share Posted May 3, 2023 If you can find an original then get it rebuilt by Parts Parts. Pattern not good Ask me how I know! Good to see you back Roger Regards Harry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted May 3, 2023 Report Share Posted May 3, 2023 "The fundamental difference RHD to LHD clutch master cylinders on TR6 is the length of the pushrod. RHD is longer." Peter - as a matter of interest, why is this the case? Is the relationship between the pedal (box) under the dash and the master cylinder mounting on top of the bulkhead different between the LHD and the RHD cars? If so, presumably if you convert a LHD pedal box to RHD, you would need to use the original (shorter) push rod or am I missing something? Cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 3, 2023 Report Share Posted May 3, 2023 1 hour ago, rcreweread said: "The fundamental difference RHD to LHD clutch master cylinders on TR6 is the length of the pushrod. RHD is longer." Peter - as a matter of interest, why is this the case? Is the relationship between the pedal (box) under the dash and the master cylinder mounting on top of the bulkhead different between the LHD and the RHD cars? If so, presumably if you convert a LHD pedal box to RHD, you would need to use the original (shorter) push rod or am I missing something? Cheers Rich Your missing the fact that due to the wiper motor being on top of the left hand footwell so on a left hand drive 6 the clutch master is mounted on the front face of the footwell instead of on the top on a right hand drive car hence the need for different length push rods. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted May 3, 2023 Report Share Posted May 3, 2023 Stuart - thanks for clarifying - I've never spotted the differences in mounting before - you never stop learning! cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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