Erik Posted March 24, 2023 Report Share Posted March 24, 2023 I am fitting 4 pot calipers to my 1971 TR6, - a common upgrade kit using wilwood calipers and vented discs. I fitted the new disc and calipers and then hit problems putting the wheels back on. The back of the wheel rubs against the caliper body. Has anyone come across this problem before? I have what I believe to be standard steel wheels (15"x 5.5, 15 vent holes) and a standard hub set up. I have contacted Moss whom I got the kit from but as yet they have not been able to shed any light. Anyone any ideas? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted March 24, 2023 Report Share Posted March 24, 2023 Wheel spacers are the normal solution Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Erik Posted March 24, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2023 Thanks John, I take it from your answer that this is a common problem? I was assuming that the kit I bought would be able to fit without problems into a standard set up, Moss also seemed to think that was the case. I'd be interested to hear if anyone else had the same problem. I basically want to know if I should be looking for an incorrect part/installation fault or if others have had the same problem. Happy to use a spacer if need be as a solution (should I fit same spacers to the rear too in order to keep the geometry right?) Erik Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted March 24, 2023 Report Share Posted March 24, 2023 I can't speak for the kit you refer to Erik as I don't buy off the shelf kits but in general terms when you encounter such a problem as I have when using different calipers & vented discs I found I needed spacers to provide the clearance for the components. I suspect you may have the same issues. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JochemsTR Posted March 25, 2023 Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 My vented disc set require for the original steel wheels, about 10-11 mm wheel spacer. The steel wheels have a problematic offset. 9 hours ago, Erik said: should I fit same spacers to the rear too in order to keep the geometry right? No, not required but you can. More important to have the correct length wheel studs. You need at least 7 thread windings to mount the wheels. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Erik Posted March 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 Thanks for that Jochem, very useful - what manufacture of calipers do you have? My Wilwood caliper bodies are about level with the hub flange, so hopefully do not need as much as 10mm spacer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted March 25, 2023 Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 Have you checked that the gap between the disc and calliper are equal ? i seem to remember that there were shims/washers to set the calliper when i did this. Roy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Erik Posted March 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 Hi Roy, I checked and the calliper is set dead centre with the centre of the disc. The kit came with thick washers, which I didn't use ( I reused the original calliper mounting bolts, just thought they were washers for underneath the new bolts). Maybe they were shims?? But as I say calipers and disc are centred together. (maybe there should be an offset?) The kit didn't come with any fitting instructions which was a bit annoying. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malbaby Posted March 25, 2023 Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 It seems that you have fitted the rotors and calipers correctly. Solutions have been mentioned above.....fitting spacers [assuming enough stud thread] or fitting wheels with less offset. As a matter of interest here in Australia, compliance engineers will not certify the use of Wilwood calipers due to them not having rubber dust/debris boots fitted on the caliper pistons. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted March 28, 2023 Report Share Posted March 28, 2023 you mentioned the mounting bolts. on my race car i had one of these come out causing the calliper to jamb the ally front wheel on track. Enlightening so double heck that yours give you full depth holding them on. i do use a 5mm spacer Roy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Erik Posted March 31, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2023 Thanks for the comments and advice. Just to update - I tried a 6mm spacer, but the extra long studs needed wouldn't work with the spacer (they had too long of a shoulder on them for the spacer). Moss investigated and found out that the Wilwood calipers don't work with the standard steel wheel as they make contact. I have abandoned the project and gone for a more standard set up. I'm not racing the car so don't need mega brakes Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted March 31, 2023 Report Share Posted March 31, 2023 1 hour ago, Erik said: Thanks for the comments and advice. Just to update - I tried a 6mm spacer, but the extra long studs needed wouldn't work with the spacer (they had too long of a shoulder on them for the spacer). Moss investigated and found out that the Wilwood calipers don't work with the standard steel wheel as they make contact. I have abandoned the project and gone for a more standard set up. I'm not racing the car so don't need mega brakes Probably the best decision. Different car I know but I fitted a AP set up on my MX5 track car and in fairness with a std brake setup with decent pads the benefits were marginal other than fade took a bit longer to develop. Better tyres and pads probably offer more cost/benefit. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted March 31, 2023 Report Share Posted March 31, 2023 5 hours ago, Erik said: I have abandoned the project and gone for a more standard set up. I'm not racing the car so don't need mega brakes Very sensible, nearly every change I ever made resulted in more pain than gain. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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