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I am a victim LMAO


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Unfortunately I have fallen victim to a Craigs list rebuild, One can of satin black rebuild kit.

I bought a rebuilt lhd steering box for my car fitted it and all has been reasonably OK during the limited mileage done since rebuild until now.

I thought the issue was the driving style of Michelin XAS tyres and finding the sweet spot for tyre pressures.

Due to ill health the snagging list is finally getting done.

I seems that I have a square worm drive in the box and it needs replacement soon.

I understand that it is possible to replace the split column box without removing the apron. If ! this is correct any tips from some kind person would be appreciated.

Rod

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What exactly is the steering problem?

Does it skip and lurch on bumpy corners?

Is it vague and heavy?

Has the car got the Revington steering lever modification, bushed steering idler and cross shaft relay pins bronze bushed?

Peter W

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Hi  Peter,

It is definate that it is the box. When adjusted the steering binds up on both locks.

I have nylon type cross shaft bushes.Splines and inter connector are good.

Steering feels vague and the wheel takes up after about 1/8 th of a turn wheels off ground. There is a a lot of sidewall flex to be fair with XAS.

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Tightening the top adjuster screw and lock nut will cause the box to seize.  It is the second adjustment when setting the worm.

The first adjustment is to eliminate all the end float of the worm.   This is done with shims under the end plate.   Just removing a thin (0.005”) shim may tighten the whole lot up sufficiently. This adjustment is required because of wear to the ball bearings/tracks/worm races in service.  Worse thing that can happen is the box ultimately needs a full rebuild.   
The pain in doing this adjustment is disconnecting the stator tube wires as the end plate needs to be removed if you want to check the shim size you are removing.   Not to mention the oil.   Refill through the hole in the column hole with rubber plug.   That way the upper bearing is running in oil.


The other issue could be the peg that runs in the worm.   It wears on its sides.  It is not uncommon to remove the peg and turn it 90 degrees and refit.  This presents unworn faces to the worm……unless someone has been there before you…..

To achieve that repair it is column-out which as you noted with a short shaft is easy.  Undo the clamps bolts wiring, pull the stator tube up into the car.

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1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Tightening the top adjuster screw and lock nut will cause the box to seize.  It is the second adjustment when setting the worm.

The first adjustment is to eliminate all the end float of the worm.   This is done with shims under the end plate.   Just removing a thin (0.005”) shim may tighten the whole lot up sufficiently. This adjustment is required because of wear to the ball bearings/tracks/worm races in service.  Worse thing that can happen is the box ultimately needs a full rebuild.   
The pain in doing this adjustment is disconnecting the stator tube wires as the end plate needs to be removed if you want to check the shim size you are removing.   Not to mention the oil.   Refill through the hole in the column hole with rubber plug.   That way the upper bearing is running in oil.


The other issue could be the peg that runs in the worm.   It wears on its sides.  It is not uncommon to remove the peg and turn it 90 degrees and refit.  This presents unworn faces to the worm……unless someone has been there before you…..

To achieve that repair it is column-out which as you noted with a short shaft is easy.  Undo the clamps bolts wiring, pull the stator tube up into the car.

+1

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Hi Peter,

Many thanks for you information. It would seem that the box needs out regardless of fix. I can not detect any movement on the column   up or down. Indicates shims are not the issue and to rotate peg needs a press to  remove the steering arm.

I have another unit that has been rebuilt.  Will check it

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I have fitted a new worm , they are silver soldered on the spline and peened on the end, or at least mine was. as for the removal .. with the split columns i'm not sure how  the stator tube is set up but if it seperates then you should be able to separate the column and remove the box  without removing the front apron but you will need  the front wheels are on ramps as you are still going to need some distance . If you have the car on the ramps measure the length of the column from the split and then the distance to the floor which should give you an indication  of the amount of clearance you are going to need ..if you can remove it from the chassis it may be possible to wiggle it free 

worth a look I think 

steve

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7 hours ago, Rodbr said:

Hi Peter,

Many thanks for you information. It would seem that the box needs out regardless of fix. I can not detect any movement on the column   up or down. Indicates shims are not the issue and to rotate peg needs a press to  remove the steering arm.

I have another unit that has been rebuilt.  Will check it

The shim removal can be done without taking the box assy out of the car.   
4 bolts, the stator tube olive clamp nut, a slide the plate away.   Use side cutters to snip one thin shim to remove it.   Bolt it all back together. Refill oil.

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