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his new gearbox? (Rover LT77 to TR)


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another idea, pehaps stored anywhere....

I need the dimensions of item 50 + 54 bolted together with all angles,

this I can make from wood, bolt it on my old gearbox, this on my old engine --> and got the points where item 51 is situated?

Then I make a new "item 50+54" connecting the LT77 gearbox with the rubber mounts on the late crossmember?

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Marco between you and Jochem you should be able to work it out, You have an "A" type mounting on your chassis which is in the same position as on the 5/6 cars with A type. Jochem if his is a 73 car should have the later J type mounting brackets fitted to his chassis. Therefor some measurements exchange should give you the position. I dont have a record of the measurements as when I did the conversion I used the engine and gearbox on a crane to get the mounting position marked and then welded in after.

Stuart.

 

CR 526 O 030.jpg

CR 526 O 031.jpg

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Hi Stuart,

sadly there are 200 km / 3 h between Jochem and me….

There are so many TR owner fitting ODs on their cars, I hope for one who still has this parts and will help us.

Ciao, Marco

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48 minutes ago, Z320 said:

Hi Stuart,

sadly there are 200 km / 3 h between Jochem and me….

There are so many TR owner fitting ODs on their cars, I hope for one who still has this parts and will help us.

Ciao, Marco

He could at least send you measurements/pictures that might help though.

Stuart.

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Sadly we can't compare frames by the circumstances,

so our idea is to compare gearboxes, perhaps someone can measure on this TR-J-OD gearbox...

The end of the LT77 looks like item 54 bolted on the J-OD and laying on rubber mounts on the crossmenber.

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This are the dimensions, angled 45° to eachother

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The lower surface with the M12 thread is about 68,5 mm below the center of the outgoing shaft

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What we can measure is the lenght of the LT77 from the engine / engine plate to this point, it is about 565 mm

sgKtXcuhWKAcV5wEeQfqUKaRvxli7QoEM3z9N0X2

Any help would be great, thank you in advance,

Ciao, Jochem & Marco

 

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4 hours ago, Z320 said:

Good morning Stuart,

the circumstances are against Jochem and me.

Are your photos above made currently at you workshop?

Ciao, Marco

Unfortunately not Marco as that conversion was done 14 yrs ago.

Stuart.

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Stuart, thank you anyway.

In the worst case Jochem must measure with the LT77 in the TR in position - this needs 1 week more time.

Sadly this meens 1 week less driving :)  while he is pedaling with his legs under the table… 

Ciao, Marco

 

Edited by Z320
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Next Step:

Uniball Joint and J-OD attachment

Question: the original TR7 Gearbox uses plastic or poly bushings to attach to the main gearbox.

Marco fabricated aluminum bushings. Any opinion why to use these plastic or have the attachment fixed with Aluminum?

LT776_.jpg

Edited by JochemsTR
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1 hour ago, JochemsTR said:

Next Step:

Uniball Joint and J-OD attachment

Question: the original TR7 Gearbox uses plastic or poly bushings to attach to the main gearbox.

Marco fabricated aluminum bushings. Any opinion why to use these plastic or have the attachment fixed with Aluminum?

LT776_.jpg

Probably -

Noise, Vibration and Harshness

 

Known as NVH in the car making world

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Perhaps we "German speekers" should explain "Unibal"?

This is the product name from the Swiss company "Schaublin" and is very common to use at Germany for a "joint head" or "ball joint" (?).

This is like "I used an Edding (marker)", "fix it with Loctite (glue)", "Helicoil", "Allen head" or best known "I need an Aspirin".

The correct German term is "Gelenkkopf"

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Still waiting for ordered parts I did some wood work on this project today

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to get the outgoing flange fixed on the empty LT77 gearbox

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to make shure to have no collision with the new to make rear bracket

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Edited by Z320
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Hi,

the M10 rose joint is in and it fits very well

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Making it shorter XY mm moves the shifter housing exactly in the position we need it for our TRs.

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SADLY the M10 rose joint is drilled 10 mm - and the Rover shifter lever is diameter @&%$!!?@ 10.2 mm!

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It is not possible to drill the rose joint wider, if I would know the hole mechanism works I would grind the pin on the end of the lever down to d = 9.8 mm.

But I agree with Jochem that we don't want to loose the lever, so I decided to make a new suitable rose joint.

l7-smOYSa-o3aoPQabn0DIZHsYABk4jgDguwJEpZ

This also solves the question about how to release the reverse light switch with a standard rose joint?

Shure, later knowing all dimensions it would be less effort to modify this - but sadly nobody knows (or tells) us...

Ciao, Marco

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The new rose joint is ready, using the ball and bush from the origianl one.

T8B7nA_SGXos9hziHSEtj_HDPm3J6aD4zd4dnT58

Both sides to release the reverse light switch - because this way we can give the joint one turn more or less in

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It fits well, but does it work?

I don't know because the gearbox is empty and I can not shift any gears.

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I have another excenter ready to drill with some millimeter more offset.

Just in time (before I have other stupid ideas) Jochem organised and send me this...

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Bolted on my old TR gearbox - and the gearbox on my old engine, it will help us to find the dimensions for the LT77 rear bracket.

9nzhbCIzvTq8SOxJf6h26lM_PkD79r4ZnaudYSJo

Sadly this all needs more time as we hoped, but I'm optimistic we manage the hole project until spring.

Ciao, Marco

Edited by Z320
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The original style "J" type mount does sit lower in the chassis which you can see from your last photo is where that mount needs to be as well.

Stuart.

 

CR 526 O 032.jpg

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Hi Stuart,

thank you for your photo, item 54, 50 and the rubber mounts are visible!

The new bracket we want to bolt on item 50, but expect this does not work because of the LT77 outgoing flange.

Then we bolt ist on the original rubber mounts, if possible not down on the crossmember and not on the brackets on the frame.

Ciao, Marco

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