Electric fuel pump

[trevor]

Can anyone remind me of the make to consider as the search doesn't  find any posts, it was not a Facet and needed a cut off.

Sorry to be so vague.

 

Trevor

[RobH]

If you mean for a carburettor car then a few of us use Huco. 

https://www.dellorto.co.uk/shop/car-accessories/fuel-pumps-regulators-accessories/fuel-pumps-carburettor/huco-low-pressure-12v-fuel-pump-133010/

[trevor]

Thanks for the speedy reply, yes its for my TR4,  I see there is K&N on at a reasonable price to. Do you use a cut of device as well ?

Trevor

[RobH]

Yes - plenty on e-bay etc. 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=fuel+inertia+switch&_sacat=0

[Hamish]

Rob has it spot on Trevor 

it’s the set up I use very happy with it. 
its the right pressure for twin su’s

[john.r.davies]

Any electric pump should have a cut off impact switch.    A mechanical will stop when the engine does, as is likely in an incident, the electric won't, with consequent fire risk.  All moderns have them.

The Lucas type is only available in OE form.     There is a modern style that is so widely used by so many manufacturers that it has to be relibale and effective.   They come in two types, with two and three wires.   The three wire version will set off a warning light, to tell you that your engine failure is due to the switch and not some other problem.  Many classic car part suppliers sell them, new, EG 

 

[jpmf]

Had a Huco that sprang a leak over the winter and dripped fuel for a few months before I noticed.

[rcreweread]

Trevor - is there a particular reason why you want to change from the original mechanical pump to an electric one? Its not as if the original AC Delco ones were problematic or unreliable.

Cheers Rich

[trevor]

Hi, thanks for all the replies, and no Rich there's not a  particular reason except I do have problems starting from cold , I always need to prime the carbs and use  the dreaded easy start, then all's well till left a couple of weeks, I have fitted a non return valve and tap so I can clean the bowl easily. A while ago I tried to refurbish the pump but the valved supplied were alloy and didn't fit. So it's being done to eliminate one area. Not very scientific I know.

Cheers Trevor

 

[rcreweread]

Trevor -  I have a TR4 with HS6 carbs, and if I haven't run the car for 2-3 weeks, with choke out, I need to turn over the engine for about  20-25 seconds before it start to fire - if I keep turning, the engine starts to fire on more cylinders and then bursts into life after about 5 more seconds. It always starts eventually and then settles down happily to tick over. I never have to use an "easy start" spray.

If I have used the car recently, it starts easily and quickly.

I do sometimes pre prime the carbs using the priming lever, but it's a difficult lean over from the drivers side to reach it as that side of the the car is too close to the garage wall to get easy access.

What car and carbs have you got? Are you sure there isn't a leak from the float chambers ?

FWIW, I have some spare original AC Delco fuel pumps refurbished by Dave Davies - if of interest, send me a PM

Cheers Rich

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[trevor]

Hi Rich , I have a TR4 with HS6 carbs as well, excuse my ignorance but how does a leak from the float chambers affect things ?

[jerrytr5]

If there is reduced fuel in the float chambers due to leak or evaporation then it won't start until they fill up.

The problem with a mechanical fuel pump is that the engine needs to be turning over to pump the fuel, hence sometimes a lot of cranking is required.

An electric pump will fill the float chambers as soon as you switch on the ignition so by the time you have started cranking there is fuel present.

it may be that modern fuels evaporate quicker than before so this issue has become more prevalent. Certainly changing from mechanical to electric pump on my Spitfire engine eliminated this problem. I use the Huco one after finding Facet longevity was suspect on other vehicles.

Jerry