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StuartG

Clutch / gearchange problem

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So I got the TR out of the garage today reversed out onto the road and could not select 1st 2nd or 3rd gear. Managed to finally get it into 2nd and took it for a short distance but had to return home as gears almost impossible to select. Went to check clutch fluid and noticed two blobs of clutch fluid on the TOP of the master cylinder cap. I had topped up the fluid a couple of weeks ago, is it possible to put too much in and / or could the tiny breather hole in the cap be an issue ? Any inspiration much appreciated......

PS I fitted a new master cylinder 5 years ago.

 

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Hi Stuart,

too much fluid should not affect gear selection. It may affect your engine bay paint work though.

Do all the simple checks first

Does the slave cylinder push the cross shaft arm correctly. etc etc.

It is always possible that the taper pin in the cross shaft has snapped.  :o

 

Roger

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Hi again Stuart ~

I fitted an additional nut and bolt to secure the new clutch fork.  You can also fit a roll pin instead.

Tom.

CLUTCH - Copy.jpg

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That looks scary. Another clue is that I can change and engage all the gears easily without the engine running. I will check on the slave etc in the morning.

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Hi Stuart,

your extra clue is significant. It is 99% certain the taper pin is broken.

The duff taper pin means that even with max pedal extension the clutch disc is still spinning. This stop gear engagement .

With the engine off gear selection is easy because the clutch is no longer spinning.

Have ever taken a GB out?

 

Roger

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Hi Stuart,

do you visit your local group. If so can they localise the issue before you spend money.  Is there anybody there to take the GB out

 

Roger

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Checked thE slave cylinder this morning and have 16mm of shaft movement which I believe is correct so it is the taper pin that is the problem.

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Stuart ~

Here's how I removed the gearbox and overdrive from my 3A ~ pretty heavy going but it worked. As you can see I supported the bellhousing with some rope.

Tom.

Screenshot 2020-02-02 11.38.48 - Copy.png

Edited by Fireman049

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Refitting the gearbox/overdrive. I used a different method. I supported the back of the box with a mini hoist from the garage roof.

This allowed me to position the gearbox in line with the flywheel.  Very easy.

Tom.

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Hi Stuart,

first check movement on the crankshaft, the same symptoms occur when the trust washers dropped out. Try to move the front pulley with a bar to the front and to the rear. If the washers dropped you will have 5-6 mm movement. Don‘t start the engine until you are sure this is not the case.

Regards Peter.

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On 2/1/2020 at 5:53 PM, RogerH said:

Hi Stuart,

do you visit your local group. If so can they localise the issue before you spend money.  Is there anybody there to take the GB out

 

Roger

Hi Roger,

I know the gear box job very well as I had to remove it 3 times in one month because of poorly greased thrust bearings from Moss and only overcame the problem when I found out that my local bearing distributor had RHP ones in stock, packed in poly bags so that the grease did not dry out unlike the Moss ones and was commonly used in the manufacturing industry,

Bruce. 

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21 hours ago, peterq said:

Hi Stuart,

first check movement on the crankshaft, the same symptoms occur when the trust washers dropped out. Try to move the front pulley with a bar to the front and to the rear. If the washers dropped you will have 5-6 mm movement. Don‘t start the engine until you are sure this is not the case.

Regards Peter.

+1   

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On 2/1/2020 at 3:23 PM, StuartG said:

So I got the TR out of the garage today reversed out onto the road and could not select 1st 2nd or 3rd gear. Managed to finally get it into 2nd and took it for a short distance but had to return home as gears almost impossible to select. Went to check clutch fluid and noticed two blobs of clutch fluid on the TOP of the master cylinder cap. I had topped up the fluid a couple of weeks ago, is it possible to put too much in and / or could the tiny breather hole in the cap be an issue ? Any inspiration much appreciated......

PS I fitted a new master cylinder 5 years ago.

 

Stuart

The clue is in your post ie fluid top up the pin has most likely broke and the movement you stated later on is correct at the slave. One thing to check is the slave mounted on the right side of the bellhousing.

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17 hours ago, RogerH said:

+1   

But also check all the Clevis Pin holes on the whole system as they wear oval, especially the one in the top of the clutch pedal M/S operating arm as I had to bush mine with marine bronze years ago, only after 15K.

Bruce.

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So this is how the problem panned out. Took car to TR specialist who on taking the gear box out discovered that the clutch fork was already welded to the bar. They changed the clutch, thrust bearing and master cylinder, the result of which is that the car changes gear better than it ever has in the 9 years I have owned it. 

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Hi Stuart,

the welded fork is the simple get you home (from holiday) repair.

Less work than taking the GB fully out.

 

Roger

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