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  • Location
    Germany - Cologne area
  • Cars Owned:
    TR6 PI CR, dec 1972, LHD.

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  1. peterq

    Front Hub

    Hi Kevin, I used TR felts from Moss. You don’t need to trim them. Soak in oil and position inbetween two plastic plates. Clamp these tight in a vice, so the opening distance is slightly more than needed in assembly on the car. Leave them over night. I did this about three years ago, all OK. Assemble stud and bearings first without the felt and adjust the play, mark the postion of the nut and then assemble with felt. Turning the wheel will be a bit heavy at the beginning, but because of the oil in the felt, this will settle soon. Regards, Peter.
  2. Hi Jochem, just for my understanding: Setup for a standard CR with contact breakers means 10 degrees static and 26 degrees centrifugal (13 degrees in distributor), so 36 degrees max. The 123 Ignition manual (PDF by Limora) says to turn the crankshaft to the required static timing (that would be 10 degrees) an turn the distributor till the led lights. This would mean that static timing plus the curve in the distributor are added? Or am I misunderstanding something? Regards Peter.
  3. Hi Stuart, first check movement on the crankshaft, the same symptoms occur when the trust washers dropped out. Try to move the front pulley with a bar to the front and to the rear. If the washers dropped you will have 5-6 mm movement. Don‘t start the engine until you are sure this is not the case. Regards Peter.
  4. Hi, https://www.ebay.de/itm/UNF-Zollschrauben-Triumph-TR3-TR4-TR5-TR250-TR6-TR7-TR8-Herold-Vitesse-Spitfire/150661060218?hash=item231419567a:g:sRAAAOxyrP9RZSKT This company is in Germany (screwcorner.com) and it sells on Ebay. About 10 years ago, I had trouble with bolts and screws coming from one of the big oldtimer companies, they sheared off at fastening. I then bought this assortment at Ebay, no connection, just a satisfied customer. They are all UNF, as far I as remember UNC studs are used at the exhaust manifold. For most purposes you need grade 5 screws (simular to 8.8), marke
  5. Hello John, I assume the pressure will go down as soon as the engine is running and the fuel starts flowing. I would check this before changing the setting at the PRV. Kind regards, Peter.
  6. Hi Mark, if you need a cut-out switch, use Mini/BMW partnumber: 07 13 1 068 856. This switch comes from the first series "new" minis and is more reliable then the original switch. Peter.
  7. peterq

    Her first start

    Hi Waldi, correct. If present, the vacuum advance moves the baseplate, retard or advance. The width of the rotor ensures „contact“ to the terminal. The first distributor in the pics had a retard capsule. I disconnected the spring, moved the baseplate in the right position and secured it with a screw. Regards Peter.
  8. peterq

    Her first start

    Hi Waldi, I had some problems uploading a pic, here it is, now it seems to work again. If you check the timing by pointing the strobe inside the cap, you can actually see to which lead the spark is firing, or if the spark is leaving top or heel of the finger: The pin on the baseplate which connects to the spring is in the wrong postion on the pic, yours is even more out: It has to be in the area of the rectangular dome in the casting, pin and according area are marked green: Maybe the baseplate has been changed by a wrong part, or the spring i
  9. peterq

    Her first start

    Hi Waldi, the way you describe setting the timing is correct. This means the timing of crankshaft to distributor points is OK. The reason I asked for a pic of the opened distributor is because when the points open, the finger has to be close to a plug contact. If it is in between two plug contacts then a lot of spark will be lost or arrive at the wrong spark plug. If you machine holes in a distributor cap and simulate this condition, you will see a spark inside the distributor cap. A lot of energy gets lost, the engine will run but will stutter if you press the pedal. My suggesti
  10. peterq

    Her first start

    Hi Waldi, First of all: congratulations, good job! You write the timing is way off with the strobe. Before you said you checked the timing, how exactly did you check? Regards Peter.
  11. peterq

    Her first start

    Hi Waldi, Please change position of the leads on the cap: remove 4, replace by 1, put 5 in old position of 1, 3 in old position of 5, etc. So change all positions clockwise by one position. Please try to start now. Regards, Peter.
  12. peterq

    Her first start

    Hi Waldi, MU timing is not critical. With Lucas injection the injectors are spraying in front of the butterflies. More or less the same as a carburettor. Also Bosch mechanical injection did not have intermittent supply, but was delivering constantly. The mixture is „waiting“ until the valve opens. Timing of the MU certainly has effect on how the engine runs at idle, but the correct timing will be different from the manual because our petrol today is different from petrol in 60-70ties. Could you remove the distributor cap and make a picture? Regards, Peter.
  13. peterq

    Her first start

    Hi Waldi, to check the ignition timing: - Remove valve cover - Turn engine by hand to TDC - Check if both valves of cylinder 1 are closed, rockers should have minimal movement - If not turn crankshaft another 360 degrees and check valves - Remove distributor cap, from the position where you are standing the rotor arm should point at 7 o´clock - At this position lead 1 should be in the distributor cap - Then check the order anti clockwise 1-5-3-6-2-4 Timing of the metering unit does not matter, my MU is 180 degrees out and seems to run
  14. Hi Mike, I have done some conversions on Strombergs. The easiest way, without machining, is to use the rollers bearings as suggested by Jochem. On a TR6, at the ends of the spindle, you will find a seal. Usually these are hardened over the years and no use at all. The roller bearing fits exactly in the space where the the seal sits. Use a thin coat of loctite on the outside and the inside of the bearing. On idle the throttle valves are closed and there is a high vacuum in the throttle body. Even little play at the spindle or at the outside of the valves will result in air leak
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