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  • Location
    Germany - Cologne area
  • Cars Owned:
    TR6 PI CR, dec 1972, LHD.

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  1. Hi Stuart, first check movement on the crankshaft, the same symptoms occur when the trust washers dropped out. Try to move the front pulley with a bar to the front and to the rear. If the washers dropped you will have 5-6 mm movement. Don‘t start the engine until you are sure this is not the case. Regards Peter.
  2. Hi, https://www.ebay.de/itm/UNF-Zollschrauben-Triumph-TR3-TR4-TR5-TR250-TR6-TR7-TR8-Herold-Vitesse-Spitfire/150661060218?hash=item231419567a:g:sRAAAOxyrP9RZSKT This company is in Germany (screwcorner.com) and it sells on Ebay. About 10 years ago, I had trouble with bolts and screws coming from one of the big oldtimer companies, they sheared off at fastening. I then bought this assortment at Ebay, no connection, just a satisfied customer. They are all UNF, as far I as remember UNC studs are used at the exhaust manifold. For most purposes you need grade 5 screws (simular to 8.8), marked by 3 radial lines on the head. As you can see in Ebay, it ´s no problem to order small quantities. Kind regards, Peter.
  3. peterq

    PI Fuel Pressure

    Hello John, I assume the pressure will go down as soon as the engine is running and the fuel starts flowing. I would check this before changing the setting at the PRV. Kind regards, Peter.
  4. Hi Mark, if you need a cut-out switch, use Mini/BMW partnumber: 07 13 1 068 856. This switch comes from the first series "new" minis and is more reliable then the original switch. Peter.
  5. peterq

    Her first start

    Hi Waldi, correct. If present, the vacuum advance moves the baseplate, retard or advance. The width of the rotor ensures „contact“ to the terminal. The first distributor in the pics had a retard capsule. I disconnected the spring, moved the baseplate in the right position and secured it with a screw. Regards Peter.
  6. peterq

    Her first start

    Hi Waldi, I had some problems uploading a pic, here it is, now it seems to work again. If you check the timing by pointing the strobe inside the cap, you can actually see to which lead the spark is firing, or if the spark is leaving top or heel of the finger: The pin on the baseplate which connects to the spring is in the wrong postion on the pic, yours is even more out: It has to be in the area of the rectangular dome in the casting, pin and according area are marked green: Maybe the baseplate has been changed by a wrong part, or the spring is wrong, I cannot tell you. As a TR friend had an issue with his ignition I found out by experimenting on a distributor test rig. It took me months to find the problem, after correcting the position of the baseplate, the engine ran as it should do. Regards Peter.
  7. peterq

    Her first start

    Hi Waldi, the way you describe setting the timing is correct. This means the timing of crankshaft to distributor points is OK. The reason I asked for a pic of the opened distributor is because when the points open, the finger has to be close to a plug contact. If it is in between two plug contacts then a lot of spark will be lost or arrive at the wrong spark plug. If you machine holes in a distributor cap and simulate this condition, you will see a spark inside the distributor cap. A lot of energy gets lost, the engine will run but will stutter if you press the pedal. My suggestion of moving the leads is not the solution, it is to check if the finger is in the wrong position. This can be corrected by moving the baseplate. Regards Peter.
  8. peterq

    Her first start

    Hi Waldi, First of all: congratulations, good job! You write the timing is way off with the strobe. Before you said you checked the timing, how exactly did you check? Regards Peter.
  9. peterq

    Her first start

    Hi Waldi, Please change position of the leads on the cap: remove 4, replace by 1, put 5 in old position of 1, 3 in old position of 5, etc. So change all positions clockwise by one position. Please try to start now. Regards, Peter.
  10. peterq

    Her first start

    Hi Waldi, MU timing is not critical. With Lucas injection the injectors are spraying in front of the butterflies. More or less the same as a carburettor. Also Bosch mechanical injection did not have intermittent supply, but was delivering constantly. The mixture is „waiting“ until the valve opens. Timing of the MU certainly has effect on how the engine runs at idle, but the correct timing will be different from the manual because our petrol today is different from petrol in 60-70ties. Could you remove the distributor cap and make a picture? Regards, Peter.
  11. peterq

    Her first start

    Hi Waldi, to check the ignition timing: - Remove valve cover - Turn engine by hand to TDC - Check if both valves of cylinder 1 are closed, rockers should have minimal movement - If not turn crankshaft another 360 degrees and check valves - Remove distributor cap, from the position where you are standing the rotor arm should point at 7 o´clock - At this position lead 1 should be in the distributor cap - Then check the order anti clockwise 1-5-3-6-2-4 Timing of the metering unit does not matter, my MU is 180 degrees out and seems to run better at idle. Did you check the fuel pressure? Regards Peter.
  12. Hi Mike, I have done some conversions on Strombergs. The easiest way, without machining, is to use the rollers bearings as suggested by Jochem. On a TR6, at the ends of the spindle, you will find a seal. Usually these are hardened over the years and no use at all. The roller bearing fits exactly in the space where the the seal sits. Use a thin coat of loctite on the outside and the inside of the bearing. On idle the throttle valves are closed and there is a high vacuum in the throttle body. Even little play at the spindle or at the outside of the valves will result in air leaks and an rpm too high for idling. As to 8mm bushes: the difference between 5/16 inch and 8 mm is 0,06 mm, which is far too much for a fit on a spindle and a bush. The machining of the throttle body will be expensive, because you need a jig for positioning. I have done some conversions on PI throttle bodies, this is no problem if you use a dedicated jig. Regards, Peter.
  13. Hello Robin, Looking at your picture of the pump, I assume the hose at the right on top is going to the engine. The braided hose seems to be twisted? This would give a restriction after the PRV: - at low rpm the PRV works as adjusted. - at high rpm the flow increases, the restriction builds up pressure and the PRV opens, the pressure before the MU drops. If my assumption is correct then measuring direct at the exit of the PRV would give correct readings. Hoping this helps...... Kind regards, Peter. P.S. He who does not like braided hoses......
  14. Hello Matt, I have been working on my CR electrics recently, your diagram looks very good and comprehensive. I worked with the Autowire diagram and changed it for the PI. What puzzles me are your taillight resistors, what are they and where are they located? Greetings from Germany, Peter.
  15. Hi Tony, I had the same issue as I did a rebuild on my engine, I changed sprockets and chain and lost my timing marks by buying new parts. My cam is different, it is a CR cam, timing 18-58-58-18. Please consider that it is difficult to determine the point where the valve starts to open in relation to the angle of the camschaft. Due to the profile the valve at first opens slowly, then faster. As far as I know this is the reason that some cam shaft manufacturers are giving these angles at a certain valve lift, for example at 1mm. But then again, there does not exist a standard for this, different manufacturer, different standard. Then the measured gap between cam (or rocker arm) and valve tip also changes the opening and closing angle. Assuming that opening and closing slope are identical, I used the maximum lift to check the timing. At maximum lift my gauge only moved slightly for 30 degrees (95 to 125). So the top of the profile should be at 110 degrees. I timed my cam at 110 degrees and then checked opening and closing. These were not 18 and 58, but opening was a few degrees earlier and closing a few degrees later. This makes sense considering the timing given at a certain lift of the valve (no standard). If the profile is correct (no wear) and the gap (rocker arm and valve tip) is correct, the the diffence in degrees at opening and closing should be identical, just as a check. I hope this helps. Kind regards, Peter.
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