unclepete Posted May 9, 2006 Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 Inherited my beast sans fan, fitted with a early generation Kenlow (I can f**t faster). So what do we think of the new generation Kenlowe vs the Pacet. Both makes are now 'ducted' which will help the airflow. Looking at the spec the Pacet is cheaper and much more powerful but what have you chaps found? Also blower or sucker? It makes sense that having the fan in front blowing would block off a large portion of the coil with the fan motor although I have much more room in front. opinions please. Unc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david ferry Posted May 9, 2006 Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 Unc, Pacet or Spal. Sucking, so behind the radiator, but you may need to create a little space between the fan motor and the crossbrace between the turrets. This is done by effectively angling the top of the radiator forwards and carefully altering the shape/position of the mounting holes into the chassis. David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted May 10, 2006 Report Share Posted May 10, 2006 (edited) Hi Peter I've had a Kenlow fitted for over three years now without a problem. I fitted a 13" Kenlow Blower 2000 Series (13/B); this fits neatly on the front of the radiator with Kenlow’s tie system and is supported by the internal lip on the apron. If going for a blower make sure the ducting is fitted as there is probably less surface area on the rad to pass air over. And, if the starter handle hole is still in your rad (as mine was) braze a plate over it (as I did) otherwise (as I found) you loose the vacuum effect to a degree. I still have the original fan fitted to TRK to offer me a concurrent suck - you know it makes sense! Plus I think a modern sucker looks ugly, especially in the morning! So far, "touch wood", I've not noticed any significant drain on the power using a dynamo though, but I think you already have a conversion? Personally, I prefer a blower to a sucker, but with my set-up I now get the best of both worlds – always a fantasy! Cheers Andrew Edited May 10, 2006 by Andrew Smith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr3timme Posted May 10, 2006 Report Share Posted May 10, 2006 Unc: I admit to being an indefatigable bodger, and the electric fan I pulled off a scrap Japanese car in a Newcastle breaker's in '99 is still working - and cost £5. The idea is to get a very flat motor/housing to slot into the confined space in front of the engine, and mount it as close to the rad. (sucking) as you can. I made up 2 unsightly looking lugs and mounted the fan to the rad. stays, securing the bottom of the fan assembly by a third ugly lug clamped to the cross-tube with a jubilee clip. My car is a 3 (with slightly better through-apron cooling than a 3A) but since the boiling-over in heavy traffic nr. Le Mans which prompted me to ditch the mechanical fan in the first place, I have had no overheating troubles since going jap-electric. I've also put extracting louvres into the bonnet which probably have no effect whatever - but look nice, to me! The one thing which you are supposed to do is wire the whole thing through a relay, but my more primitive method of taking it straight from the live battery feed at the ignition has so far worked OK. Nevertheless my conscience says that I should go for the relay; has anyone any idiot-proof instructions for doing this (cheaply, of course)? Tim. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted May 15, 2006 Report Share Posted May 15, 2006 Unc: I admit to being an indefatigable bodger, and the electric fan I pulled off a scrap Japanese car in a Newcastle breaker's in '99 is still working - and cost £5. The idea is to get a very flat motor/housing to slot into the confined space in front of the engine, and mount it as close to the rad. (sucking) as you can. I made up 2 unsightly looking lugs and mounted the fan to the rad. stays, securing the bottom of the fan assembly by a third ugly lug clamped to the cross-tube with a jubilee clip. My car is a 3 (with slightly better through-apron cooling than a 3A) but since the boiling-over in heavy traffic nr. Le Mans which prompted me to ditch the mechanical fan in the first place, I have had no overheating troubles since going jap-electric. I've also put extracting louvres into the bonnet which probably have no effect whatever - but look nice, to me! The one thing which you are supposed to do is wire the whole thing through a relay, but my more primitive method of taking it straight from the live battery feed at the ignition has so far worked OK. Nevertheless my conscience says that I should go for the relay; has anyone any idiot-proof instructions for doing this (cheaply, of course)? Tim. I fitted a Kenlowe on two brackets supplied by the company , on the front of my radiator. It is hardly ever in use since I changed the radiator core for an up rated one from a radiator company in Chichester West Susex. I feel that the Kenlowe is a part of the history of the Tr cars and is the only make to use. They are very helpful and have been in the same premises for many tears. They are old established interested company and have a top product How did you find a louvre installer and please will you post his address or contact details Yours Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cinnobar Posted May 16, 2006 Report Share Posted May 16, 2006 Always SPAL or Pacet, my 7 one is 16" unit pulling less than 10Amps, I'm beginning to loose count of the Kenlowes I've had to re-fuse &/or rewire because of their excessive current draw. Everyone buys Kenlowe because it's the first name that comes to mind but it ain't the best IMHO. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
unclepete Posted May 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2006 Thanks for all your tips guys. I work in the Air Conditioning and Ventilation industry and have done some research into air flow rates versus resistance. Using the same resistance values for each of the different manufacturers with their different ranges of fans I have gone for the Pacet! They are at least 30% better for the same current draw than the closest competitor. Alec I have also done a bit of research into different types of Radiator Coil. Colchester Radiators recommended a 'Q Coil'. My original Coil was a 4 row, the replacement Q Coil will be 3 row! I was a bit sceptical at first but when you look at a cross section, the Q Coil tubes are eliptical and about twice as long as standard? The fins are also different layout. The industry (not Colchester Radiators) reckon on a 30 - 40% improvement in heat rejection over the standard type. The only drawback is price - fitting costs are the same but the coil was about an extra £40. Unc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don Elliott Posted May 16, 2006 Report Share Posted May 16, 2006 I have had a 12" Kenlowe pusher mounted as Andrew has, but I built my own support brackets. I use a manual switch to flip it on and off through a relay and fuse as it draws about 25 amps when starting. Don Elliott, Montreal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david ferry Posted May 16, 2006 Report Share Posted May 16, 2006 Unc, Assuming the radiator is yet to be recored and returned to you, I would suggest that you should arrange to have fan mounting brackets welded to the sides of the radiator so that you do not mount it through the core. Whilst there is nothing wrong with mounting through the core, as done on my TR3a, I have appropriate brackets on the radiator for my TR4. It seems to make sense to do this whilst it is all apart. David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
robgeev Posted May 17, 2006 Report Share Posted May 17, 2006 If the radiator is the same size as a 4, the Pacet has screw holes through brackets on the 4 corners, which line up nicely with the rad frame-just be carefull drilling them (nasty to solder up!) Rob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
57 Iain.F Posted May 17, 2006 Report Share Posted May 17, 2006 While I think it is usefull to consider the many aftermarket fans available, being the eternal bodger, I used a fan that I laying around. This is a Ford (possibly diesel Transit?) marked item, but importantly it fits behind the rad and the factory shroud that is fitted to it is the same width as the rad. That means that the flow through the rad is not obstructed in front and when the electric fan is working it draws air through the full width. The fan is mounted to the side supports on the radiator so there are no fittings going through the rad core. Switching is by a temp switch in the fixed lower pipe (Moss part) and relay, with a manual overide. Currently using an electric temp gauge (Smiths internals and sender) my TR3a runs nicely at mid position on the gauge. This has been achieved quite cheaply with little fabrication (or talent!). Hope this helps- Iain.F Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cinnobar Posted May 17, 2006 Report Share Posted May 17, 2006 I have had a 12" Kenlowe pusher mounted as Andrew has, but I built my own support brackets. I use a manual switch to flip it on and off through a relay and fuse as it draws about 25 amps when starting. Don Elliott, Montreal Exactly why the SPAL or Pacet is better, mine is fused at 10Amps & it's never blown.... Switching is by a temp switch in the fixed lower pipe (Moss part) and relay, with a manual overide. Currently using an electric temp gauge (Smiths internals and sender) my TR3a runs nicely at mid position on the gauge. This has been achieved quite cheaply with little fabrication (or talent!).Hope this helps- Iain.F The bottom hose is the wrong location really as heat rises, the bottom hose temp won't track the same. Mine is a boss installed in the rad itself, if you're having the rad rebuilt it cost all o about £2.50 damn sight cheaper than the moss bit! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jonlar Posted May 17, 2006 Report Share Posted May 17, 2006 Hi Jim, I've always (the last 30 years or so) Kenlowe fans (mainly on Land Rovers) with no problems. I prefer the bottom hose or bottom of the rad. location for the thermo switch, as this measures and is controlled by the temperature of the water leaving the rad. and going back into the block and saves the fan cutting and out unnecessarily. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr3timme Posted May 17, 2006 Report Share Posted May 17, 2006 Hi, Richard: you asked about bonnet louvres. I got mine made at "Cool Louvres", so far as I can remember in Southampton (at any rate, tel. no. is 01420 588 080); the chap advertises from time to time in Practical Classics and charges £5 a louvre for the dimension I needed. I didn't have the time to take the car or bonnet down from Newcastle (though I believe you can drive in and he will cut the louvres while you wait -he certainly did that for Renton Kidd in Northumbria group), so he made up two plates with louvres (a beautiful job, I have to say) and posted them to me. All I had to do then was to get my body man to cut two rectangular holes in the rear raised portion of my bonnet and braze them in - then paint the panel. So Cool Louvres is the way to go if you have no success with Alec's recipe of builder's yard inventory. Except: someone mentioned to me that if you chance upon a scrap TR7 bonnet you can cut the louvres out of that and then proceed as above! On a separate link, Jonlar: I've tried twice to Email you- so far it seems, without success. I just wanted to thank you for your kind offer of the relay and the back-up directions from your Lucas bible - much appreciated! Cheers all, Tim. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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