SeanF Posted March 21, 2019 Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 Since completing my rebuild, my clutch is fairly heavy and does not dis/engage until the pedal is almost at the floor. Its a Laycock clutch which was refurbished by Prestige Clutch last summer and I installed a new cross shaft with new bearings each side as well as a new steel carrier, new pin augmented by cross drilling and fitting bolt and nylock nut. I drove my friend's car a couple of weeks ago and his clutch engages/disengages almost at the top of the pedal so it became apparent that all is not right with mine. Sometimes I have to release and re-engage the clutch to select reverse or a gear if re-starting from the lights for example Before I bought the car it had had had a new master cylinder (TRW) and slave cylinder from TR shop in 2013 but these had never worked in anger because the clutch plate was seized into the pressure plate and the pin had sheared (only became obvious on stripping down). I re-used the slave as it was, and fitted a new seal kit to the master as part of the rebuild. I have just replaced that slave with an OEM TRW version from Rimmers together with a new pushrod clevis pin etc. This does not seem to have made any difference to the clutch operation so I am looking for any advice as to what to try next. I have turned the slave cylinder so that the bleed nipple is at the top when bleeding and have tried to push back on the push rod with the pedal engaged to expel any air bubbles out of the slave. Should I replace the Master cylinder? I have just ordered one. Should I be able to move the clutch cross shaft by hand? I can't. It is very stiff and when lying under the car (engine off) and the slave pushrod is applying pressure I can hear a sort of grating noise from the push rod area. The pushrod is extending approx 13mm from closed to fully open which seems to be more than enough but yet the clutch is not good. Some additional information. When rebuilding, I had to drill the end of the old sheared pin out of the clutch fork. I re-used the old fork with a new shaft and pin as I thought I had managed to drill it out cleanly. Maybe I should have just replaced the fork. Anyway, if anyone has any ideas or suggestions about what to try, to improve the clutch, which might avoid having to remove the box, I'd very much appreciate it. Many thanks in advance. Sean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
colin3511 Posted March 21, 2019 Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 Check the clutch master push rod is the correct length. The US ones are shorter and you will never get it to work. Also you could grind off the metal tag on the back of the clutch pedal to give you a little more movement. Colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted March 21, 2019 Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 31 minutes ago, SeanF said: Since completing my rebuild, my clutch is fairly heavy and does not dis/engage until the pedal is almost at the floor. Its a Laycock clutch which was refurbished by Prestige Clutch last summer and I installed a new cross shaft with new bearings each side as well as a new steel carrier, new pin augmented by cross drilling and fitting bolt and nylock nut. I drove my friend's car a couple of weeks ago and his clutch engages/disengages almost at the top of the pedal so it became apparent that all is not right with mine. Sometimes I have to release and re-engage the clutch to select reverse or a gear if re-starting from the lights for example Before I bought the car it had had had a new master cylinder (TRW) and slave cylinder from TR shop in 2013 but these had never worked in anger because the clutch plate was seized into the pressure plate and the pin had sheared (only became obvious on stripping down). I re-used the slave as it was, and fitted a new seal kit to the master as part of the rebuild. I have just replaced that slave with an OEM TRW version from Rimmers together with a new pushrod clevis pin etc. This does not seem to have made any difference to the clutch operation so I am looking for any advice as to what to try next. I have turned the slave cylinder so that the bleed nipple is at the top when bleeding and have tried to push back on the push rod with the pedal engaged to expel any air bubbles out of the slave. Should I replace the Master cylinder? I have just ordered one. Should I be able to move the clutch cross shaft by hand? I can't. It is very stiff and when lying under the car (engine off) and the slave pushrod is applying pressure I can hear a sort of grating noise from the push rod area. The pushrod is extending approx 13mm from closed to fully open which seems to be more than enough but yet the clutch is not good. Some additional information. When rebuilding, I had to drill the end of the old sheared pin out of the clutch fork. I re-used the old fork with a new shaft and pin as I thought I had managed to drill it out cleanly. Maybe I should have just replaced the fork. Anyway, if anyone has any ideas or suggestions about what to try, to improve the clutch, which might avoid having to remove the box, I'd very much appreciate it. Many thanks in advance. Sean Hi Sean How much slack is there in the clutch pedal operation? The areas to look at are the nylon bush in the pedal boss and the wear in the clevis pin hole in the pedal as this wears oval. From experience the TR clutch will not tolerance very little slack in the system. The pedal/clevis pin hole can be welded up and re-drilled or bushed with a marine bronze bush. I went done the bush route and mine has lasted over 35 years and still has very little wear in the bush hole. Also the master cyl. rod clevis pin hole will wear oval. When you start to adding up all these bits of wear you will be surprised how far you can push the clutch pedal down before the operating arm moves at the gear box. Gear crunching is the usual first sign! Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AarhusTr6 Posted March 21, 2019 Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 3 hours ago, colin3511 said: Check the clutch master push rod is the correct length. The US ones are shorter and you will never get it to work. Also you could grind off the metal tag on the back of the clutch pedal to give you a little more movement. Colin Hi Colin Can you maybe find a picture of what you talk of with regard to grinding off? Thanks Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
colin3511 Posted March 21, 2019 Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 Hi Rich, No picture but I can elaborate. If you look at the clutch pedal you will find a metal tag that protrudes about 20mm about half way up towards the engine side. This limits the pedal movement towards end of stroke. It's a common remedy and I have just done it myself. You can get in there with an angle grinder. Colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted March 21, 2019 Report Share Posted March 21, 2019 You've probably checked this- but is the clutch pedal height correct? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JochemsTR Posted March 22, 2019 Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 In general, you should not be grinding off the little tag on the clutch pedal! It is possible to overpress the clutch plate...it will shorten its lifespan. Something else is wrong. How much travel from Slave do you have? Should be about 15mm which results in about 10mm on the bearing. You mentioned 13mm....this is still acceptable. I hope the clutch fork is still properly attached. Jochem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
.thumb.jpg.b7c1d8626840e1e2206b74f8365664d1.jpg)
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.