Engine colour

[roger murray-evans]

14 hours ago, Adam T said:

This information has been most helpful, I just machined up a FRE block for bearings today (with the retaining bolts) and was looking for paint color for a tr2. FRE block was single layer of black, but blue may be in the pictures I have from before it had an FRE block.

Here is a link to the bearing bulletin I used for dimension info.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/11thhnJ4fd2NuNFBzZEsGH8k5DU-aafvs/view

 

Thanks again.

 

Adam , I had my cam bearings replaced by press fit, omitting the retaining

screws.I'm not entirely happy with that decision and would appreciated a contact for

the next occasion on another early block I have?

Roger M-E

Edited January 13, 2021 by roger murray-evans
omitted text

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

1 hour ago, roger murray-evans said:

Adam , I had my cam bearings replaced by press fit, omitting the retaining

screws.I'm not entirely happy with that decision and would appreciated a contact for

the next occasion on another early block I have?

Roger M-E

Is it worth retaining the bearings with an industrial adhesive from Loctite?   
I had an A series engine that also has replaceable cam bearings that are not mechanically retained and the rear one migrated to cover the #8 cam lobe.   Engine ran like a bag of poo and removal of the rocker cover found #8 valve stuck open.  All the A series experts told me I should have used Loctite on the rear cam bearing.  Something to do with oil pressure from the rear of the cam mounted oil pump hydraulically pushing the bearing.

Peter W

[Adam T]

On 1/13/2021 at 3:01 AM, roger murray-evans said:

Adam , I had my cam bearings replaced by press fit, omitting the retaining

screws.I'm not entirely happy with that decision and would appreciated a contact for

the next occasion on another early block I have?

Roger M-E

Absolutely, I'll send you my info.

 

On 1/13/2021 at 4:48 AM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Is it worth retaining the bearings with an industrial adhesive from Loctite?   
I had an A series engine that also has replaceable cam bearings that are not mechanically retained and the rear one migrated to cover the #8 cam lobe.   

This was my concern, and when I found the service bulletin outlining retrofit machining procedures, I knew it would be the best thing.

[R9mey]

Hi

Has anyone managed to get a match for the blue colour on the exchange engines

I am just stripping mine down to see what needs doing and I would like to paint as it was

I have attached a picture of the plate

seems to have standard bores and a ground crank

In one of the threads there was a mention of a date for the reconditioning under the rocker cover but i can't find anything?

ta

Chris

[Motorsport Mickey]

I should take that FRE plate information with caution, you don't know how early in it's life that reconditioning happened. I've stripped down a number of FRE engines and never found the internal specs matching up to what's on the plate. Might have been so when freshly reconditioned, but another half century of use tends to change the viability of the wearing components.

Mick Richards 

[R9mey]

Thanks

I will strip it all down and measure to see what the current state is

as you say who knows what's happened particularly as it was last taxed in 1979!!

Chris

 

[Lebro]

My FRE plate did reflect what was inside the engine, I have found no evidence of when it was done though (nothing inside rockerbox)

Bob

[David Arrowsmith]

The engine plate on my TR2. Looks original but why the -10s on bearings/crankshaft? Is this just a manufacturing tolerance?.

 

Edited March 2, 2023 by David Arrowsmith

[David Arrowsmith]

No idea why pic is upside down, sorry.

[Motorsport Mickey]

No problem David it's good exercise screwing my neck around.

No the -10 shown on the FRE plate (Factory Reconditioned Engine) isn't a tolerance.

If you look on the top line of the plate on the extreme right top corner (don't forget it's upside down) you'll see a stamped FR with a rivet head after it, confusing eh ? Which in this case means the securing rivet head for the plate onto the block is obscuring the E meaning engine which is under the rivet head. So the information on these FRE plates shows the regrinds on mains and big ends meaning the crank when factory reconditioned was ground to -10 thou for each set of bearings.

Now as I've pointed out above (and Bob contradicts me) it's highly likely that the crankshaft has been reground further since it's last factory reconditioning, so that information may not be correct, or maybe it is. If you are going inside that's one of the things you'd be checking.

Mick Richards

Edited March 3, 2023 by Motorsport Mickey

[Lebro]

Not contradict Mick, I'm sure you are correct, it's just I have know my car since 1971, & the FRE engine would not have been all that old then.  On more recent examination all sizes were as standard.

Bob

Edited March 3, 2023 by Lebro

[David Arrowsmith]

Thanks Mick and Bob. The car was extensively renovated in the 79/80s so it probably had a recon engine then. The car has done very little mileage since so there is a good chance the crankshaft has not been reground since. I will probably see you another thread about to post about the TR2.

[R9mey]

Hi

Main Bearings and big end bearings are the same as the engine plate and still in good condition

I am waiting on some internal mics to measure the cylinder but only the slightest sign of wear

All looking good

I think I will change the shells now I am this far and rings

I used to fit stepped top rings when I rebuilt engines back in the day are these still available?

Any Thoughts

Thanks

Chris

[R9mey]

Hi

Bores are max 4 thou mostly 3 thou oversize worn

Should I rebore or just fit new rings

 

Thanks

Chris

[Motorsport Mickey]

1 hour ago, R9mey said:

Hi

Bores are max 4 thou mostly 3 thou oversize worn

Should I rebore or just fit new rings

 

Thanks

Chris

If you had another 1 thou wear there Chris it would be suitable for racing.

Hone it, ring it, drive it.

Mick Richards

[R9mey]

Thanks mick

just checked hone tools seem to be only about £20 !!

so might have a go myself

I assume this will remove the top and bottom step so straight rings rather than stepped?

Thanks

Chris

 

 

[Motorsport Mickey]

51 minutes ago, R9mey said:

Thanks mick

just checked hone tools seem to be only about £20 !!

so might have a go myself

I assume this will remove the top and bottom step so straight rings rather than stepped?

Thanks

Chris

 

 

Be careful not to take too much off.

The honing is merely to rehatch the surface with micro grooves to allow oil to be retained when the piston carries the rings downwards. Try and measure the ridges, I use telescoping gauges (sometimes called "Snap gauges...cos they go "snap" when you release them) and a micrometre. You should be able to measure just above and below the ridge to decide what amount you have to cope with. If you can buy a ridge dodger I'd use them, or if you are like me use the "Art of coarse TR engineering fix #38" and just knock off the top edge of the top rings with a 45 deg angle ground about 10 thou down from the top surface (that means 10thou across on the top edge also 45 deg ...gettit ?). Should have a pause here whilst avid engineers get holy water and sprinkle it to prevent contamination from heretics like myself, what can I say ? I tell it like we all used to do it.

The "overlap" from used  bore to original dia bore gets "blended" by the hone stones. I use the medieval weapon sort with carborundum stones fixed on the ends of sprung steel wire, although the square carborundum stone on extenders a couple of inches long work ok also. I soak the stones in a paraffin pot when in use make sure they don't dry too much. Probably only a couple of minutes each bore should do it.

If you are doing this with engine in car and all the gubbins still below crank etc, cover it with cling film (sandwich spread), it sticks to itself and can be moulded around the crank, give it a couple of layers. When the honings complete wipe the liner bores with rags and paraffin and finish off with clean paper towel. If the white towel comes out grey at all clean the bores again with paraffin and wipe them until it doesn't pick up any grey. Then wash off the cling film, dry and strip it off.

Mick Richards   

 

 

[R9mey]

Thanks mick

great reply

All understood

so off to order a hone tool

engine is out so ok to keep clean although I will give it a complete clean as the oil that came out was very black!! over 40 years old !

 

Thanks

Chris

 

 

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

16 minutes ago, R9mey said:

Thanks mick

great reply

All understood

so off to order a hone tool

engine is out so ok to keep clean although I will give it a complete clean as the oil that came out was very black!! over 40 years old !

 

Thanks

Chris

 

 

Good comparison of cylinder hones here.

Interesting you need to consider the coarseness of grit to go with different types of piston ring.

https://royalmechanic.com/best-cylinder-honing-tool/

Edited March 6, 2023 by BlueTR3A-5EKT

[Motorsport Mickey]

2 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Good comparison of cylinder hones here.

Interesting you need to consider the coarseness of grit to go with different types of piston ring.

https://royalmechanic.com/best-cylinder-honing-tool/

Thanks Peter, you have the MOST comprehensive collection of technical information and parts cross availability.

Mick Richards