Steves_TR6 Posted January 20, 2019 Report Share Posted January 20, 2019 (edited) I’ve today snapped the (made of cheese!) banjo bolt in the head of my 6’s engine that’s part of the rocker oil feed. now i know these feeds are hated by many but my engine has run on this for 20 years so i dont plan to remove it. i was looking into a leaky rocker cover gasket/banjo when i broke the banjo refitting it...... i can just buy one from Moss but if someone knows the size/thread then i might buy something in stainless online instead so that’s the question : what size / thread is the opening in the corner of the head that the rocker feed goes into? i’m guessing 3/8 or 1/2 unf? But bolts dont want to screw in very far so i’m uncertain? steve Edited January 20, 2019 by Steves_TR6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 20, 2019 Report Share Posted January 20, 2019 (edited) Hi Steve, contact these people in Isleworth. They know most things about oil ways/coolers etc. https://www.thinkauto.com/ Roger PS - stainless fittings into Iron heads may not be the best combination.- one or other may corrode Edited January 20, 2019 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
colin3511 Posted January 20, 2019 Report Share Posted January 20, 2019 Steve, It is unf but probably only screws in 10-12 mm. Colin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted January 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2019 Thanks Roger i know Think as they made up some brake lines for me previosly, and am aware of ss/other metal corosion as have some ss fittings that are corroded into Amita’s Aluminium mast never to be removed ! steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted January 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2019 1 minute ago, colin3511 said: Steve, It is unf but probably only screws in 10-12 mm. Colin Thanks Colin, yes the thread inhad to extract was about 8mm long :-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted January 20, 2019 Report Share Posted January 20, 2019 Steve, SS bolts are softer that good steel bolts, so I would stick steel grades like 8.8 which equals 3 stripes on unf bolts. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SpitFireSIX Posted January 20, 2019 Report Share Posted January 20, 2019 Hi, Stainless will corrode if in contact with ferrous. I thought stainless was harder than steel? Cheers, Iain. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 20, 2019 Report Share Posted January 20, 2019 Hi Iain. there are various steel s and various S/steels. The hardness etc do cross over. But there is more to metals than hardness. Generally hard stainless steel is a rubbish material but works well for door handle escutcheons. - gives a good polish as well. Many of the softer steels are not good for bolts etc requiring a high torque. That is why the more useful steels are graded. Do not use S/Steel in high performance applications. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted January 21, 2019 Report Share Posted January 21, 2019 To add to Rogers input: SS is more difficult to cut, drill, bent because it is cold working: it hardens when you deform it. The common SS300 series bolts, which include 304, 316 and ASTM grades A193-B8(M) and “DIN A2/A4 “ and several others are much weaker than grade 8.8 (or the 3 stripes on the head with UNF). If a bolt has no marking, it is best to assume it is soft, lowest grade. Regards, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted January 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2019 I bought a standard one and two crush washers from Moss this am, all fitted and ready for testing :-) steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted January 21, 2019 Report Share Posted January 21, 2019 Great Steve, do you also have a restriction in the pipe to “save” oil for the mains and bigends? Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted January 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2019 1 minute ago, Waldi said: Great Steve, do you also have a restriction in the pipe to “save” oil for the mains and bigends? Waldi Honestly dont know Waldi! engine is a bit of a mystery...... built in about 1995 and still going strong so i’m leaving it alone apart from routine maintenance until it stops ! I do have a lot of notes and receipts, cam, forged pistons, ‘race’ valves etc etc and it pulls round to 6000 revs so hard i’ve set the 123 limiter to 5750! the motor has been rebuilt at least twice, and puts out about 170 hp, (saw just under 150 at the wheels at Enginuity) one day i’ll have to take it apart and all will be revealed, but until then am not messing with it..... :-) steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 21, 2019 Report Share Posted January 21, 2019 41 minutes ago, Steves_TR6 said: Honestly dont know Waldi! engine is a bit of a mystery...... built in about 1995 and still going strong so i’m leaving it alone apart from routine maintenance until it stops ! I do have a lot of notes and receipts, cam, forged pistons, ‘race’ valves etc etc and it pulls round to 6000 revs so hard i’ve set the 123 limiter to 5750! the motor has been rebuilt at least twice, and puts out about 170 hp, (saw just under 150 at the wheels at Enginuity) one day i’ll have to take it apart and all will be revealed, but until then am not messing with it..... :-) steve Better have a look at the remnants of the old banjo bolt as the usual thing is solder them up and then re-drill to 1mm. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted January 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2019 24 minutes ago, stuart said: Better have a look at the remnants of the old banjo bolt as the usual thing is solder them up and then re-drill to 1mm. Stuart. Ah, i see ! thanks stuart, i will check ..... steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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