bushes and shocks....ect..

[Nickffc]

Sorry.. i know there is plenty of info on the forum about this but reading so much... maybe too much...but nothing really recent... so thing may of changed.

 

now in the position in the restoration to buy stuff...!

 

Bushes: Polybush, Superflex or Superpro.? Polyubush seem to be the cheapest but maybe thats for a reason... Superflex & Superpro... are they the same?

 

Shocks: Gaz, KYB, Koni or Spax...? anything wrong with the Gaz..? again cheap in comparison. know nothing about KYB?

 

Uprating fromt anit roll bar.... worth it....? rear anit roll bar... should i bother..?

 

or course cost is a factor to some extent, hunting around for the best deals, rimmers are having a 15% off

 

Use will be a bit of fast road, but mainly crusiing the country lanes, doubt i will get on a track so not worth the setting up for this.

 

opinions welcome please...

 

thanks

 

Nick

 

 

[Steves_TR6]

A thought on anti-roll bars Nick

 

Dont uprate the front anti-roll on its own as this will cause more understeer

 

However if you add a rear anti-roll and uprate the front to 7/8, with poly bushes and uprated links, then roll is greatly reduced and nicely balanced.

 

This combined with std rate springs for comfort or slightly uprated for fun would be my recommendation having had two tr6s.

 

Steve

Edited May 9, 2018 by Steves_TR6

[TR5tar]

You have PM Nick.

 

Cheers, Darren

[stuart]

I use the Superflex and buy from Chris Witor they are the same as Superpro but slightly cheaper. Spax are good shocks.

Stuart.

[JochemsTR]

I have front anti-roll but NOT rear. With a rear anti-roll kit you induce understeer. In addition, with certain exhaust systems the installation of the rear anti-roll kit can be problematik.

Jochem

Edited May 9, 2018 by JochemsTR

[RobH]

Nope, sorry Jochem but its the front a.r.b. that increases understeer. A rear one increases oversteer. Is that what you meant to say?

Edited May 9, 2018 by RobH

[JochemsTR]

yes!!! rear anti-roll kit induces oversteer....

just a little uncoordinated between thinking, translating, typing....

...sorry....

[Steves_TR6]

So i was right ....... had me worried there for a moment :-)

[JochemsTR]

Hello Steve,

I posted a similar question regarding front and rear anti-roll bars early 2017 (german forum).

The feedback regarding the rear a.r.b was rather negative.....still curious if any good experience is there at all....

Jochem

[Nickffc]

Thanks chaps, I may well steer clear of a rear ARB for the under/over steer and the that will installing a twin pipe sports SS exhaust

 

Nick

[Motorsport Mickey]

Hello Steve,

I posted a similar question regarding front and rear anti-roll bars early 2017 (german forum).

The feedback regarding the rear a.r.b was rather negative.....still curious if any good experience is there at all....

Jochem

Hi Jochem,

 

If you remove the front anti roll bar the front understeer reduces,...but the car rolls more at the front. All manufacturers like understeer and most cars are set up from the factory to have it...it's safer for drivers, if you go into a corner too fast the understeer makes you run wide or just straight on, you stop it by reducing throttle or stopping it completely.

To reduce the roll and yet balance the handling, the car should have both front and rear anti roll bars, the handling can be varied by adjusting the relative thicknesses or bar stiffness at either front or rear. It's the balance which is of importance because it alters with tyre pressures, you should keep them at the optimum for the car, ( depends if you are touring or a track day) and vary the handling by the anti roll bars alone (we won't go into camber/caster differences here).

If the bump steer has been adjusted (article available on how to do it, drop me a PM with your e mail address on it, available to all ) you'll find the adjustment of more toe in (gives more understeer) and adjustment to toe out (gives more negative handling and towards oversteer) easy to understand and apply to your car.

 

Mick Richards

[Steves_TR6]

Hello Steve,

I posted a similar question regarding front and rear anti-roll bars early 2017 (german forum).

The feedback regarding the rear a.r.b was rather negative.....still curious if any good experience is there at all....

Jochem

Hi Jochem

 

I didnt build the suspension of my car, its an ex-racetorations build from the 1990s

 

It handles really well, which i put down to the fully polybushed suspension, and the front and rear arb combo.

My front arb is 7/8th and the rear is thinner 3/4 i think.

Clearly someone knew what they were doing as the car goes where you point it, doesnt roll much at all, and when tested in anger during my recent emergency BMW avoidance manouvre on the motorway saved my bacon!

 

I suspect messing up the arb balance would be a very bad thing.... but the combo on my car works well.

 

Steve

For completeness i should add the car has a Quaiffe LSD and CV rear shafts, the combination of which transforms grip/traction out of roundabouts/corners, especially on damp and or uneven surfaces. You really can feel the suspension working more freely without the drive shaft splines locking, and the lsd allows you to spin both wheels rather than just one :-)

Edited May 9, 2018 by Steves_TR6

[Rem18]

Hi Jochem,

 

Personally on my 5 I took the FRB off straight off after fitting it.

I dont think its a good idea unless you fit the rear too, personally I drive up and down the Alps and find that knowing the car and no bars is best to get you round tight bends.

But then a gain a 5 is lighter on the back than a 6 so its easier.

 

 

If you remove the front anti roll bar the front understeer reduces,...but the car rolls more at the front. All manufacturers like understeer and most cars are set up from the factory to have it...it's safer for drivers, if you go into a corner too fast the understeer makes you run wide or just straight on, you stop it by reducing throttle or stopping it completely.

To reduce the roll and yet balance the handling, the car should have both front and rear anti roll bars, the handling can be varied by adjusting the relative thicknesses or bar stiffness at either front or rear. It's the balance which is of importance because it alters with tyre pressures, you should keep them at the optimum for the car, ( depends if you are touring or a track day) and vary the handling by the anti roll bars alone (we won't go into camber/caster differences here).

If the bump steer has been adjusted (article available on how to do it, drop me a PM with your e mail address on it, available to all ) you'll find the adjustment of more toe in (gives more understeer) and adjustment to toe out (gives more negative handling and towards oversteer) easy to understand and apply to your car.

 

Mick Richards

[Motorsport Mickey]

Hi Jochem

 

I didnt build the suspension of my car, its an ex-racetorations build from the 1990s

 

It handles really well, which i put down to the fully polybushed suspension, and the front and rear arb combo.

My front arb is 7/8th and the rear is thinner 3/4 i think.

Clearly someone knew what they were doing as the car goes where you point it, doesnt roll much at all, and when tested in anger during my recent emergency BMW avoidance manouvre on the motorway saved my bacon!

 

I suspect messing up the arb balance would be a very bad thing.... but the combo on my car works well.

 

Steve

For completeness i should add the car has a Quaiffe LSD and CV rear shafts, the combination of which transforms grip/traction out of roundabouts/corners, especially on damp and or uneven surfaces. You really can feel the suspension working more freely without the drive shaft splines locking, and the lsd allows you to spin both wheels rather than just one :-)

Correctly Steve has pointed out that he has a LSD diff fitted.

That in itself will make the car understeer by a considerable amount, the locking action of the rear wheels increasing the grip at the rear which makes the car want to go straight ahead ie more understeer. The balanced grip he has achieved by fitting a 7/8 front and a 3/4 rear would not necessarily give the same results if fitted to an IRS car that doesn't have an LSD diff fitted, it would tend more towards oversteer lacking the balancing LSD caused understeer.

 

Mick Richards

[JochemsTR]

I firmly believe, only my opinion, that with any upgrade or improvement made, it should be considered as a whole. You cannot expect much result by only changing a camshaft. It triggers a whole lot of other required modifications (head, exhaust, etc etc.) that at the end will bring you the performance you are looking for.

The same with car handling. Often advertised upgrades such as springs, anti-roll bars, and adjustment to toe etc. should be considered as a package. Only then, you have the benefit of all, whereas one modification can make it worse. Not to forget, all mods together require extensive adjustment till all parts fitt well together.

 

To answer Nicks question, if you use the car for cruising, fast road, I doubt any of the features such as anti-roll kits will present itself as really beneficial. Triumph engineers did a pretty good job already. Maybe the poly bushings....

 

Jochem

 

PS mick, I send you a pm.

[Motorsport Mickey]

^+1

 

Mick Richards

[Z320]

I asked a good friend some years ago: should I fit an anti roll bar?

He asked me: does your TR roll?

Me: no

He: Okaaay