Triumph Tune manifold and exhaust fitting

[DesNoble]

Hi. I'm rebuilding my TR3A and have bought a Triumph Tune manifold and stainless exhaust system, but I'm having trouble fitting it. Has anyone done this successfully?

[ianc]

Alignment of the fixings holes to the studs on the head was way off with the Triumphtune (Falcon) exhaust manifold which I purchased in 2005. Once the manifold had been forced outwards in a hydraulic press, the faces were canted against the head (although the holes then aligned with the studs). We examined all the rest of the manifolds which Revington had in stock - all the same!

I spent 2 days grinding the faces on the manifold until, on a flat sheet, I could no longer get a 1.5 thou feeler into the gap. The effort was rewarded in that the manifold then fitted and has been leak-proof.

The only reason I went for Triumphtune was that it uses the design from the SAH manifold used by the Works' TR4s back in 1962 - the very first modification to improve the performance on the TR4's engine for the Rally cars. My original manifold had been brazed and had fallen apart on a number of occasions, so that, by 2005, I had become p****d off and went for a replacement of the same design.

Ian Cornish

[BrianC]

I fitted one of the early mild steel manifolds in the 80s just as SAH was changing to TriumphTune. Unlike the later versions of the same manifold, especially the stainless steel version, it was a perfect fit and I also fitted a Falcon (twin box) stainless steel exhaust system, linked with a short section of original down pipe. All worked well for many years and I only replaced the Falcon exhaust a few years ago as the loose baffles in the front box were rattling so badly. I now have one of these: https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?search_group=8982&q=fs5001 and with only a single rear box there are no rattles in the cruciform and I love the sound!

[DesNoble]

Thanks for the replies guys. Like you Ian I chose the TT system because of its association with SAH which was the one to have in my youth! The manifold fits okay although as mine is a TR3A with a bomb starter and an alternator the pipework is a tight fit around these, but it fits. The problem starts with the Y piece and the adaptor pipe because they foul the chassis and then the bend seems wrong for the hole in the X section. The part numbers I have are TT1100S (manifold), TT5019 Y piece made by Falcon, Adaptor pipe FST 5027 made by Falcon, and two piece system (round box and straight pipe) FSTT5002 again made by Falcon, ( the long pipe is FSTT5003 I believe). The whole exhaust system then works out too long to fit the rear support bracket. The exhaust box by he way starts just before the back axle. My car is supported on the chassis so I hope that there will be sufficient clearance once it is on its wheels. If I could get the exhaust to fit correctly in the right order of parts through the chassis then I could cut the pipe for the correct length. Any ideas or any alarm bells. This is a chassis up rebuild so I can't take to my local friendly garage and can't rework any bends.

 

[DesNoble]

Hi guys. A correction to the exhaust system should read FS5001 (GT stainless system)

[ianc]

Des - I dug out the invoice from Revington, dated 14/01/05. This lists RTR2013 Manifold, RTR2025 Y-piece, RTR2026 Link pipe, then there were some clamps.

Of course, this is for my TR4, but I don't think there's a great difference in that area. Might be worth talking to Neil.

This then connects to a stainless pipe, which passes through the central box section, followed by a single stainless silence box.

Ian Cornish

[ianc]

I forgot to mention that the TR4 exhaust bracket 130888 and clip 130890 will help position the exhaust system just before it heads through the central box section - this was a good idea by Triumph, and should be retro-fitted to all the sidescreen cars (as I mentioned in Technicalities in 1975).

Ian Cornish

Edited May 9, 2018 by ianc

[DesNoble]

Thanks again Ian. I was at our local South Downs group meeting last night and as a result ( as I anticipated) one of our group who has been rebuilding Trs for a long time is going to come and give me the benefit of his experience. Incidentally having read your technical article some years ago I have the bracket you refer to which attaches to the rear gearbox mounting. I'll also take a look at the Revington part numbers you mention. They may be necessary or they may give me ideas.

Regards

Des.

[Ian Vincent]

DES, FWIW, i have my TR3a exhaust supported at the gearbox and again using the TR3 bracket that sits between the chassis members level with the handbrake, (part no. 114074). I also crushed the pipe to a slightly oval section at the point it goes through the cruciform. To date it hasn't rattled against the chassis - plenty of other rattles from the car, it's just the exhaust that doesn't.

 

Rgds Ian

[DesNoble]

Thanks Ian. It will be about ten days before I my TR friend can give me a hand. In the meantime as it's a stainless steel system has anyone used the SS bands instead of the normal galvanised exhaust clamps, and is there any advantage?

 

Regards.

Des

[Ian Vincent]

I used Mikalor clamps for mine, I don't know if there is any advantage but they are stainless and can be undone easily if the need arises.

 

Rgds Ian

[DesNoble]

Yes that's the type I was thinking of. So they can clamp the joint tight and have the advantage of being able to be undone easily - good. Thanks

[vivdownunder]

Have the early starter, generator and an SAH/TriumphTune TT1100 exhaust manifold - still good after many decades.

 

Needs heat wrap past the generator (or ceramic coat), or heat transfer failures can (and do) occur at any time. If the generator just stops charging and not too far away or using headlights, a decent battery will get you home. Generator rear bearing failure is a different matter. Worse still possibly due to exhaust heat on a long summer run, I've seen a generator burst internally into thousands of tiny pieces.

 

Lower down the collectors come very close to the starter motor cable nut. Perhaps because of better cooling airflow, wrap at the starter motor isn't as important.

[DesNoble]

Good afternoon all. Thank you all for your help. I, (actually my TR guru with a cutting disc and a welding torch), have finally succeeded in fitting my SS exhaust. It took a lot of effort and a whole day to accomplish but it's on and looks great. Fortunately I have changed to an alternator but I am going to have to change my bomb type starter as the clearance as pointed out is just not sufficient.

Thanks.

[JJC]

Just as a matter of (little) interest our 2 had the original Derrington extractor manifold. A thing of some beauty but after 50 years had too many pinholes. The manifold itself was thinner than standard so required the Derrington inlet manifold to go with it. Fortunately that’s still there too. I had a copy of the exhaust made up by a specialist in Wilton just outside Salisbury. The original is on my garage wall. JJC

[DesNoble]

Yes mine now fits but even the two pipes from the manifold had to be heated and bent parallel.