pfenlon Posted July 27, 2017 Report Share Posted July 27, 2017 (edited) My ammeter is Open circuit, see pic. Is this just a copper wire, that I can solder a new one across the bridge, or something more Complex? Help appreciated. Edited July 27, 2017 by pfenlon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 27, 2017 Report Share Posted July 27, 2017 Hi Pete, very basically - yes. Get some wire of the same gauge and length/shape. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted July 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2017 Hi Pete, very basically - yes. Get some wire of the same gauge and length/shape. Roger Geronimo, Thanks roger, just the Job. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted July 27, 2017 Report Share Posted July 27, 2017 My ammeter is Open circuit, see pic. Is this just a copper wire, that I can solder a new one across the bridge, or something more Complex? Help appreciated. Which car ammeter? I have a couple of spares if you get stuck. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted July 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2017 Which car ammeter? I have a couple of spares if you get stuck. Peter W Thanks Peter W I have just found some twin and earth house wiring the copper cable is only 7thou narrower than 1/16" which will suffice I hope. A grand offer though, my car is a TR6. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MikeF Posted July 27, 2017 Report Share Posted July 27, 2017 (edited) It might be advisable to make a small investigation into why it burnt out like that. There could be a dead short somewhere in the non fused circuitry. Mike Edited July 27, 2017 by MikeF Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 27, 2017 Report Share Posted July 27, 2017 Try to get the loop of wire in the same place as before - if it is slightly further away from the moving iron it will under read, & vica versa. As mentioned above do you know why it melted away ? Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted July 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2017 I was given the Ammeter in good faith and have no redress against the supplier. It does seem to have suffered a dead short I agree. Its like putting a nail in, in place of a fuse and looking for where the smoke is coming from. Thats an old tip from my apprenticeship in the lift industry, the lift shafts were dark but when the smoke started you knew which floor the problem was. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted July 28, 2017 Report Share Posted July 28, 2017 Thanks Peter W I have just found some twin and earth house wiring the copper cable is only 7thou narrower than 1/16" which will suffice I hope. A grand offer though, my car is a TR6. Sorry, I failed. That was the one I just sold. Do still have a NOS TR4/4A style 50-0-50 but with a black bezel. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted July 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2017 Sorry, I failed. That was the one I just sold. Do still have a NOS TR4/4A style 50-0-50 but with a black bezel. Peter W Job Done hopefully. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted July 28, 2017 Report Share Posted July 28, 2017 The ACTUAL original TR4/4A ammeter is 30 0 30 of course. 50 amps might be a shade optimistic for a C40 dynamo. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted July 29, 2017 Report Share Posted July 29, 2017 The ACTUAL original TR4/4A ammeter is 30 0 30 of course. 50 amps might be a shade optimistic for a C40 dynamo. Tim Not if it has a factory fit alternator. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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