Steering column alignment

[MKTR]

Hi All,

 

I have recently done 2 jobs in one go - to replace my TR4 column flexible joints/couplings and rewire the horn connenctions. All with great success with one minor issue.

 

I tried my best to mark up the front wheels being 'straight' and matching that to the upper steering column indicator clip, and the steering wheel. However, I cannot get the steering wheel to be central when driving straight. The column/boss splines seem to allow me to be slightly off to the right or left but not central.

 

I cannot picture the engineering logic to this and wonder if there are any differences in the spline numbers & circumfurences on the steering wheel boss, steering column or steering rack mean that I am better off adjusing at one of the joints or connections as opposed to the steeering boss itself?

 

Hoping for some wisdom as usual.

 

Mark

[ianc]

The only solution is to slightly shorten one track rod arm, and elongate the other by the same amount. But make sure you don't upset tracking (toe-in).

I have been driving my TR4 with this half-spline offset for years, and it doesn't worry me - in fact, it makes viewing one of the instruments slightly easier for me.

Ian Cornish

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

see post #8 to find out how the factory/dealers did it.

http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/60728-can-you-guess-what-this-tool-does/&do=findComment&comment=513369

 

Peter W

[RogerH]

Hi Mark,

I think you will find that the splines on the Rubber UJ clamps are different to the ones on the steering wheel hub.

If it was me I would drive the car in a straight line and see how the steering wheel aligns.

Remove the upper rubber UJ and put the steering wheel into the straight on position.

I think you will find it lines up.

Refit UJ

 

You could also do it on the TRack Rod Ends but be careful you don't undo too much

 

Out of interest can you fully tighten the rubber UJ clamp bolts.?

 

Roger

Edited April 25, 2017 by RogerH

[ChrisR-4A]

The problem usually occurs on a car which was originally correct when a garage reset the toe in by adjusting one trackrod only.

I reset my trackrods when checking the toe in and found it easy to realign the wheel. Much less effort than removing the Column off the splines.

As far as I know factory setting is still done by clamping the steering wheel in the straight ahead position and then adjusting the track rods with a laser tracking unit which ensures a straight ahead position.

Chris

[MKTR]

Hi All,

 

Some great tips for me to consider and have a go at. I suspect that I may need to resort to adjusting the track rod ends and so will need to look up the toe in settings in the manual - unless there is some other thinking on angels?

 

I did have a go at removing some material from the column clamps as per Rogers guide, but with basic DIY tools I did find it hard going. As a result I mainly focussed on the lower clamp which is the hardest to get at once back in the car. All seems well and tight and I will keep an eye on them.

 

Thanks again.

 

Mark

[RogerH]

Hi Mark,

a simple hacksaw cut is what most of the garages are doing these days. Crude but works,

 

Roger

[keith1948]

I took mine to a Quickfit garage with laser tracking/alignment equipment a few years ago. They asked me what the toe-in was and I said between 0 and 1/8th inch. All they heard was the word 'inch'. You can guess the rest. I now have a set of garage wheel alignment gauges bought from a garage that was closing down (best £20 spent!).

Agree with Roger that either top bush splines or steering wheel splines will bring it into line. Failing that adjust track rod ends ensuring correct toe in is maintained.

I have lined mine up with parallel strings each side the car at hub height - get front and back wheels lined up that way - having first made sure I am in centre of rack movement - and then set toe-in. But that was when I had rack off the car. Took a bit of working out mentally to figure out that I had got it right I seem to remember.

I also bought a set of wheel turn gauges for £20 from the garage sale but yet to figure out how to use those.

Keith

[stuartmac]

I've also used the "string" method to good effect on a number of classics - after all, the cars have been around a lot longer the lasers and kwik fit have