Steves_TR6 Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 Morning! Decided to address the little bit of 'slop' in my tr6's throttle linkage. I habe the cp throttle bodies and linkage on my 'hybrid/mongrel' engine, so bought the polybushes and adjustable links from moss Removed and cleaned everything this morning and assembled on the bench, easy job! The two bishes at the ends of the shaft were ok, but the middle one was virtually all gone, the adjustable links were in decent condition with just one of the 'screwdriver ends' broken. I've ordered a flow meter to help set things up, hopefully that will arrive today ot tomorrow and i'll get the car running again at the weekend. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 And the Secret for putting in the Centre Bush is? Cut the Bush and Super Glue or Cut the Linkage and reweld Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted December 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 I cut it with a very sharp knife Niall, just one side not cutting it in half, did not glue it as one in place its pretty secure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gary Flinn Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 I did a similar exercise on my TR5, it made a world of difference and didn't cost a fortune either The Centre bush was non-existent on my car Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 Steve When you sync it up aim for 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 I cut it with a very sharp knife Niall, just one side not cutting it in half, did not glue it as one in place its pretty secure. We must tell them to make them with the Cut,Well Done. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted December 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 As 'lunch is for wimps' i spent my time refitting the linkage, only moderately fiddly to my surprise, amd then doing a quick balance with the 'Synchrometer' Top marks to Eurocarb ltd for superfast delivery as i only ordered it at about 4pm yesterday! Idle is notable smoother, engine stalls promptly if i block the bypass, all is good for a basic setup. What's the best procedure for synchronising the throttles? I was able to get pretty similar readings of '2' for the throttle bodies at idle, do i need to set them at say 2k or 3k revs?? Regards Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 No it sounds about right only sync at idle, however 2 is low as you stand a chance of damaging the bodies Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 Yes up the Revs to 1500 and as Neil said aim for 3 on the Balancer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 Yes up the Revs to 1500 and as Neil said aim for 3 on the Balancer. Ha Ha that's me Wrong again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 Steve,every time you tighten the Locking Nuts things will change and it gets Very Hot perseverance is needed and Gloves. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 Steve,every time you tighten the Locking Nuts things will change and it gets Very Hot perseverance is needed and Gloves. Get it set kill it and let it cool down,things expand fella Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted December 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 Thanks Neil and Niall ( that could get confusing) I'm not understanding the need for a higher reading at idle? That would mean more air going through the 6 throttles, therefore less through the idle bypass. I though the idea was to have virtually none going through the throttles, hence the engine stalls if you shut the bypass? What's best practice here, something like 3 on the synchrometer and close the idle bypass down to get 800 revs? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted December 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 And what sort of damage is risked if the throttles are closed too much at idle Neil? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 Here we go loosen the lock nuts set the bypass in the middle ( make sure you have no air leaks) set at 3 on idle about 900 rpm kill the car let it cool put a spot of typex on the rod inline with one on the joint when cold lock it up and you will never go back there again,and if you set to low the butterflies will hit the body and they are skip fodder . When set adjust the idle with the valve. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted December 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 Thanks Neil :-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted December 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 All done now, set synchrometer to 3 on all throttles, some variation but not much. Interestingly the idle adjuster screw, the mechanical one not the air bleed, was not in ise before. It is now and i set the balance using it and the three adjuster rods. Then reassembled air filter etc and made final idle adjustment on the air bleed. No time for a test drive today but the idle is smooter, and pickup more subtle. Thanks for all the assistance Neil and Niall, and to anyone else considering this job it was pretty easy and yielded a worthwhile improvement on a car that ran well anyway! Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted December 16, 2016 Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 Your welcome it will drive like a different car Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted December 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2016 Your welcome it will drive like a different car But i liked how it drove before :-o....... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted December 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2016 (edited) But i liked how it drove before :-o.......Neil was right, it does drive like a different car! At low revs ( under 2500 ) the pickup and pull is definitely smoother and i think stronger. At medium revs ( 2500 - 4000) the engine is smoother At high revs ( 4000 - 6000 ) im not sure there's as much difference, its certainly no worse than before so more testing required ! All in all i am very surprised and pleased at the difference removing a 'bit of slop' from the linkages made. A recommended upgrade for less than £50, and pretty easy to do too. Steve Ps happy to loan out the Synchrometer locally. Edited December 19, 2016 by SDerbyshire Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted December 19, 2016 Report Share Posted December 19, 2016 Sounds like you have done a good job Steve out of sync at high rev makes very little difference as you have WOT . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GT6M Posted December 19, 2016 Report Share Posted December 19, 2016 Can some one explain t,me,just hoo the throttles can be set open or at 3 ont carb balancer as mine are set closed, { side spring pressure only } and when running, at 50-55 MPH TPS is reading 2 measure the throttles wid a feeler, and 2 thou feeler fits in the balancer is reading 2-3 and at this speed AND, at that speed sett,n, { TPS 2 } engines revving at 3000 ish rpms yer methodology, t ,me just dont add up, as it,ll lead to a run away engine at idle as throttles are open, and no amount of air bleed screw will lower revs, !!! M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted December 20, 2016 Report Share Posted December 20, 2016 M What does TPS mean? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 20, 2016 Report Share Posted December 20, 2016 M What does TPS mean? Throttle position sensor? Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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