Guest ntc Posted June 1, 2016 Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 Can you post a pic of one? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted June 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 (edited) Can you post a pic of one? I'll try...Im not sure the camera will still focus that close. The bore will just accept a 13mm drill so that's about 2mm on the diameter bigger than the stud. - too thin for a sleeve? Edited June 1, 2016 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel A Posted June 1, 2016 Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 Hi Peter If it helps you out and you're not worried about looks you are welcome to my old wheels 6 x 15 for £20 each plus postage. There are only 4 as I am keeping the 5th as a spare. You would have to buy 4 nuts as I need these for the spare. I can get 4 nuts from Moss as they are only 5 minutes away and I seem to be in there at least once a week Cheers Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted June 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 Can you post a pic of one? Photos here: https://supertrarged.files.wordpress.com/2016/06/alloy-wheels-and-studs.pdf (the camera apologies for loss of focus) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted June 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 (edited) Hi Peter If it helps you out and you're not worried about looks you are welcome to my old wheels 6 x 15 for £20 each plus postage. There are only 4 as I am keeping the 5th as a spare. You would have to buy 4 nuts as I need these for the spare. I can get 4 nuts from Moss as they are only 5 minutes away and I seem to be in there at least once a week Cheers Nigel NIgel, That's very good of you. But I dont want a load of hassle trying to get JBW/Midland to refund four acceptable quality wheels. I dont think Mastercard would play game either - strictly speaking its the bolts and studs that are the issue, not the wheels. But I live in hope of a reasonable response from them. In that case I shall simply fit steel. lf I took up your offer I'd have wheels stored everywhere ( I never throw anything out ! ). Cheers, Peter Edited June 1, 2016 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted June 1, 2016 Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 Peter Sorry to say send them back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted June 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 (edited) Bear in mind Peter that a 5.5" TR6 standard steel wheel requires 80lb/ft as opposed to the 60lbs/ft for the 4" or 4.5" rim fitted to earlier cars. If the nuts supplied in a package deal won't take that, then the package is junk in my book, and the supplier is offering a dangerously defective package. The fine detail is irrelevant . . . . . As for failure of alloy wheels, I have seen cracks progressing occasionally, but more often the wheel simply fails, big time, just like that. Bang, Geronimo, scenery here we come. Kerbing and potholes are the big concerns, more of a problem on the road than on the track . . . . Cheers Alec Alec, My ignorance about alloys is profound. But I can well imagine 60ftlb of torque splitting the tapered seat in the alloy. What is the correct torque to use on alloys? JBW said hand torque then recheck. Peter Peter Sorry to say send them back. I need justification to do that. If the studs are made the correct length are the wheels themselves still defective in some way? Surely JBW/Midland and Rimmers are to be trusted?? Peter Edited June 1, 2016 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted June 1, 2016 Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 Hi Peter, any alloy wheel should take 60 lb/ft, standard issue alloys on 820 Rovers for example are 80, the later 75 Rover is 90. If the supplied wheels and nuts don't suit a standard TR fitment, they're no bloody good if supplied for a standard car . . . . . you don't buy a set of wheels for a particular make/model of car and then expect to have to start changing studs to make the wheels fit. Different matter if you're using spacers or non-standard hubs, but if the suppliers are offering this lot as suitable for a standard issue Triumph TR6 then they are in error - in my opinion. Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted June 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 (edited) Hi Peter, any alloy wheel should take 60 lb/ft, standard issue alloys on 820 Rovers for example are 80, the later 75 Rover is 90. If the supplied wheels and nuts don't suit a standard TR fitment, they're no bloody good if supplied for a standard car . . . . . you don't buy a set of wheels for a particular make/model of car and then expect to have to start changing studs to make the wheels fit. Different matter if you're using spacers or non-standard hubs, but if the suppliers are offering this lot as suitable for a standard issue Triumph TR6 then they are in error - in my opinion. Cheers Alec Alec, Thank you. I have heeded your voice of experience and emailed Ivor at JBW asking for a full refund. Its getting to be a real hassle changing to longer studs, and that in itself is questionable. The web site indicates they are standard Triumph fitting: http://www.johnbrownwheels.com/Shop/P-2981-5.5-x-15-JBW-Minilight-Silver---4x114.3.html Peter Its also a concern to me that there may be many fellow TRers driving around on these alloys with 8mm of thread engagement between them and the ditch/crash barrier etc. And often as not, no roll cage. Edited June 1, 2016 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GT6M Posted June 1, 2016 Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 In the bottom of wheel, wher the taper is,{ cant see a taper in pic } that should be a steel insert, cant mek it oot on the pics if a steel insert is there., BUT, if its no a steel insert, then maybe the wheels been drilled wrong, and a sleeve nut WILL fit, IF the hole is opened up. look for a steel insert, if non, then ask if the wheel should have been drilled bigger to tek a Sleeve nut. M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted June 1, 2016 Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 In the bottom of wheel, wher the taper is,{ cant see a taper in pic } that should be a steel insert, cant mek it oot on the pics if a steel insert is there., BUT, if its no a steel insert, then maybe the wheels been drilled wrong, and a sleeve nut WILL fit, IF the hole is opened up. look for a steel insert, if non, then ask if the wheel should have been drilled bigger to tek a Sleeve nut. M Correct Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted June 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 In the bottom of wheel, wher the taper is,{ cant see a taper in pic } that should be a steel insert, cant mek it oot on the pics if a steel insert is there., BUT, if its no a steel insert, then maybe the wheels been drilled wrong, and a sleeve nut WILL fit, IF the hole is opened up. look for a steel insert, if non, then ask if the wheel should have been drilled bigger to tek a Sleeve nut. M Markus, Definitely no steel insert. So 60 ftlb torque would likely crush the alloy cone apart. Meaning that the wheels cannot be torqued to original factory specs. 'Not fit for purpose' I think. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GT6M Posted June 1, 2016 Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 deffo ne insert, then they need re drilled, an easy option really, send em back an get them to doo it or get a discount and get an engineering works t,doo it. It could have been poor qual control, !! a sleeve nut, no needs the steel insert, buta conical nut does, as if not in, it will eventually eat into wheel. Sleeves eva biggish wesha on them to stop digg,n in M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted June 1, 2016 Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 Peter They contract the drilling and then go for paint. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted June 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 deffo ne insert, then they need re drilled, an easy option really, send em back an get them to doo it or get a discount and get an engineering works t,doo it. It could have been poor qual control, !! a sleeve nut, no needs the steel insert, buta conical nut does, as if not in, it will eventually eat into wheel. Sleeves eva biggish wesha on them to stop digg,n in M Markus, I dont think its poor QC as the nuts supplied with wheels are conical without sleeves. So the steel cone abuts an alloy cone. Poor design more like. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted June 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 Thank you everyone, you have been a great help. I have requested return on the wheels.We have dissected most of the design faults, and I am not happy with them not fitting standard TR6 studs with adequate engagement. Nor with the alloy cone abutment - it puts the alloy under circumferential tensile stress. I also will not fit longer studs. That leaves the first 9mm of stud unsupported by a nut. If the suppliers will machine the wheels to take proper full length sleeve nuts and a flat, solely compressive mating surface between nut and wheel I think that would be OK. But dare I trust them ? Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted June 1, 2016 Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 Peter Yes lets see what they say,are we talking 6j here if so let me know and I will pm you the correct part number. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted June 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 Peter Yes lets see what they say,are we talking 6j here if so let me know and I will pm you the correct part number. Neil, 51/2 J. Thanks! Part number for suitable sleeved nuts would also be very useful ( to fit standard studs). Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted June 1, 2016 Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 Peter None will fit the std studs Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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