foster461 Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 I'm hoping that someone can give me some guidance regarding how the beading and the stone guards are supposed to cooperate so that the beading lays flat where they all meet at the bottom of the rear fender. My beading is not sitting flat and there is a gap between the beading and the fender at the location circled as the beading has to sit on top of the stone guards. What should this intersection look like, is there supposed to be a gap where the stone guards meet that is wide enough for the beading to sit in ? Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted July 2, 2015 Report Share Posted July 2, 2015 Stan, I'd suggest that you need to shape the inner stone guard to fit tighter against the wheel arch at the back so that the beading can sit flush. It's a while since I fitted mine but if I recall, I had to do quite a lot of fettling with a file on the top rolled over edge of the small guard to allow it to snug up against the arch. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted July 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2015 Stan, I'd suggest that you need to shape the inner stone guard to fit tighter against the wheel arch at the back so that the beading can sit flush. It's a while since I fitted mine but if I recall, I had to do quite a lot of fettling with a file on the top rolled over edge of the small guard to allow it to snug up against the arch. Rgds Ian I suspect you are correct Ian. I did a lot of fettling to get the small stone guard to fit but I did not test with the beading. I also notice than when I tighten up the bolt that the stone guard starts to pivot outwards. I'm uncertain what the gap and profile should be that leaves room for the beading to sit flat. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 3, 2015 Report Share Posted July 3, 2015 (edited) It is difficult to get the beading to sit between satisfactory like Ian says the small stoneguard does need a lot of fettling. The difference between the repro ones and the originals is very well illustrated here.Original on the right. Stuart . Edited July 3, 2015 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted July 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2015 Stuart, if you were to remove the beading from the fender and bolt up the fender with the stone guards, what kind of profile would you expect to see between the stone guards ?. For example is the goal to make the edge of the stone guard so thin (ie no significant lip) so that the beading just goes over it with the smallest of displcement or is the goal to have a U or a V trough between the stone guards for the beading to fit in ? Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 3, 2015 Report Share Posted July 3, 2015 Its always a difficult one to call as every car is different, it has to sit on top of the panel joint as otherwise you wont get the wing tight enough to stop it moving around but it needs to be pulled in as tight as possible with the mounting legs as you do it up, if you get the wing mounted sightly rearward of the quarter panel flange edge from just above the large guard down wards you can get the bead in tighter and the larger guard should fit snugly into the depression in the wing mounting edge pressing but you will pretty much always have a small gap underneath the bead where it goes from just covering the wing to quarter join to quarter to guard join its usually just a case of minimising it.The flange edge of the quarter panel and the wing should be a radiused not sharp edge so that does help a bit. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vivdownunder Posted July 4, 2015 Report Share Posted July 4, 2015 Stan, that's not too bad a fit at the moment. For marginal improvement, removing some of the tapered lip (centre of the red circle) can reduce thickness where the bead meets the inner stoneguard. You can see how narrow the original lip was in Stuart's pic - almost nothing at the very top. As Stuart said, cars vary, so improving repro stoneguards is an exercise in making a silk purse out of a sow's ear. The bottom flange of the inner stoneguard has a small self tapper up into the sill to keep the stoneguard hard against the body. Viv . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted July 4, 2015 Report Share Posted July 4, 2015 we have grinded the stoneguards until our hands bleeded.. well.. not really but just to make a point.. But there is still a bit of a gap when you look at it closely i dont think they were able to do it better factoryfitted back then. it would take too much tome to fettle.. I did use a sealer before "glueing the stonegards to the body to avoid water pooring in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted July 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2015 Thanks all for the great suggestions and pictures. It looks like there are two steps that I can try to make this area better (it looks better in the picture than it really is). Take more material off the edge of the smaller stone guard so it fits closer to the body (more room and less of a step for the beading to traverse) and also makes a bigger angle with the larger stone guard. Push the front of the wing back a little so that the larger stone guard is slighly behind the smaller stone guard and let the beading fill the gap. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 4, 2015 Report Share Posted July 4, 2015 I think I would go for a combination of the two points you have outlined Stan. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vivdownunder Posted July 5, 2015 Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 With repro stoneguard sins, Edwin's TR2 has an advantage over Stan's car. Vynil beading helps more than later rigid beading. Viv Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted July 5, 2015 Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 With repro stoneguard sins, Edwin's TR2 has an advantage over Stan's car. Vynil beading helps more than later rigid beading. Viv in theory yes, but i used stainless steel beadings as they keep their shape when mounting the panels together. used vyinl before but you end up with a "wobbly" line at each screw. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 5, 2015 Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 in theory yes, but i used stainless steel beadings as they keep their shape when mounting the panels together. used vyinl before but you end up with a "wobbly" line at each screw. To make them look original you could paint the beadings same as TR5, heavy Scotchbrite key first and then some etch prime and paint. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted July 5, 2015 Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 Hi stuart, yes correct. Which is what we did, see pictures. Looks great! (null) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted July 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 (edited) Here's where I am after a bit more work with the dremel. I plan to stop here as if I continue I am likely to do more harm than good. Lovely day here today, mid 80's and low humidity so I posed the cars for this shot. Edited July 5, 2015 by foster461 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
EdwinTiben Posted July 5, 2015 Report Share Posted July 5, 2015 looking good !! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 Indeed, looks good. Nice plates as well! Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 Looking good Stan, why does the 3 plate have a red background, is it an (Antique) plate? Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted July 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 Looking good Stan, why does the 3 plate have a red background, is it an (Antique) plate? Stuart. There was a time in MA when people got a new plate every year (now we just get a new sticker to put on it). Each year was a different color so this is the color for 1959. They did not issue a plate for 1960 so to get an age related plate for a 1960 car you can use either the 1959 (burgundy) or the 1961 (green). I have plates for both years so will need to decide when the time comes. This plate was custom made, my 1961 green plate is an original from a local flea market. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 7, 2015 Report Share Posted July 7, 2015 (edited) Ah I see, there is so many different variations depending on the State Stuart. Edited July 7, 2015 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted July 7, 2015 Report Share Posted July 7, 2015 There was a time in MA when people got a new plate every year (now we just get a new sticker to put on it). Each year was a different color so this is the color for 1959. They did not issue a plate for 1960 so to get an age related plate for a 1960 car you can use either the 1959 (burgundy) or the 1961 (green). I have plates for both years so will need to decide when the time comes. This plate was custom made, my 1961 green plate is an original from a local flea market. Stan Sounds like one of your local politicians ran a number plate factory at some stage. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 7, 2015 Report Share Posted July 7, 2015 Sounds like one of your local politicians ran a number plate factory at some stage. Usually made by inmates of the State pen. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted July 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2015 Usually made by inmates of the State pen. Stuart. Correct. Not sure if it the same for all states but that is the case for MA. Here's a brief history of MA license plates. the RMV still has long lines but we can do many transactions online these days. http://www.massrmv.com/rmv/history/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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