hardtop

[tr graham]

i need to reline the inside of my 3A steel hardtop , has anybody done this recently and where can i get a suitable material.

regards

graham

[stuart]

I havent done one for a while but this is where I got my material from. Pick one http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/c-77-headlinings.aspx

Stuart.

[McMuttley]

Hi Graham

 

I am just finishing mine as we speak. As soon as I work out why Apple's new Photo ap will not let me drag and paste into Photobucket, I will add pics of my process to the text below (hopefully now on)

 

Remember, as the village idiot here, my way is probably the wrong way, but maybe some hints will help. Also, I am sure there are other suppliers to Woolies, but they have been helpful.

 

 

Because of the drone from my beastly exhaust (Tom have you fixed that ready for tomorrow ?) I first stuck a layer of this sound insulating stuff on the main central section to dampen the vibration: (I know some have used a bitumen style paint instead).

 

http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-985-sound-and-vibration-damping-sheet.aspx

 

My first attempt resulted in it falling off because the previous liner was not that well fixed, but at least I got to rust proof the inner roof whilst I was at it !

 

Original painted liner

 

 

marriage also nearly failed when wifey clocked that I had turned the marital bed into a workshop !

 

first attempt at sticking soundproofing over original painted liner

 

 

It is heavy needs to be applied in a warm environment and only time will tell if it stays there this time (their sound foam may be a better idea to avoid a top heavy car !) Also note that it needs a clean metal (or well adhered paint) surface to stick to.

 

I found surface rust under original painted liner

 

surface rust under attack with Fertan (evil stuff)

 

lid after scrubbing off evil Fretan stuff

 

soundproofing stuck to cleaned lid - hopefully it will stick this time (note it is self adhesive)

 

 

I then did a layer of foam - it is easy to stick down with the spray contact adhesive and if you get the odd lump or crease, you can simply cut it out with a blade.

 

http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1562-scrim-foam.aspx

 

 

 

Note screws under edge (Moss seem to supply very long screws for the front seal. If you have the same, it is easier to unscrew these as much as possible to assist in folding foam and liner under front edge

 

However, this type of foam was not ideal, better to use the scrim foam (they were out of stock at my time of need !

 

Scrim foam has a v thin cloth backing - looks like this below

 

 

For the vinyl i used this (but mine is a sort of off-white/beige):

 

http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1308-headlining-grey.aspx

 

 

It is all stuck down with this:

 

http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1554-high-heat-resistant-aerosol-adhesive.aspx

 

and this ....(I have a spare unopened tin if you require):

 

http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1554-high-heat-resistant-aerosol-adhesive.aspx

 

I did the vinyl in a single sheet part from the two side panels behind/under the window), glueing the front half first and then tackling the rear second. I used the stiffening bar as the guide for folding

 

The recess in the front of the hardtop where the screws (that hold the top's front edge seal) poke through, are covered with a piece of this in matching (ish) colour to the vinyl. No glueing, it fixed by pushing over the screws and fills the slot nicely.

 

http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-994-plush-snappon-edge-trim-beige.aspx

 

Whilst the front half looks neat, getting the vinyl flat in the curves adjacent to the window was impossible for me, so that section in creased (I will say its pleated when asked !!!) (but sort of out of sight when driving).

 

I suspect a proper trimmer would either pleat just the once once properly (rather than creasing 10 times as I did) or stretch with heat? (but I couldn't work out how to heat and stretch a piece of vinyl already applied with contact adhesive (and i forgot to try and pleat)

 

Along the sides, the vinyl goes under the edges, so no trim necessary there, just requires patience folding it under whilst covered in contact adhesive Many hands is really necessary for laying down these large sheets cover in adhesive.

 

To get the vinyl cut to shape, I laid out and gradually cut the excess off a little at a time

 

I used two small separate pieces for the uprights.

 

 

 

I haven't yet worked out how finish the edges around the window and how to best cover the two small joins that I have?

 

 

 

I have tested with this hidem strip, but it doesn't look great and/or will need much more precise cutting for the final fit :

 

http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1303-hidem-banding.aspx

 

I guess in an ideal world I would have taken out the window and seal and run the vinyl to the edge of the metal and then placed the (new stuart recommended) seal over the vinyl. However, the window / seal is for another day (winter).

 

Note that when sticking something onto a foam base with this contact adhesive, you only have one go, if you try to peel off and re-apply, the foam comes with it (for that reason use the scrim foam they sell as it has a sort of cloth backed side.

 

I painted the centre bar black to match the edges, but think I will (try to) cover this in vinyl this weekend.

 

I have tonnes of the various stuff left over as i ordered too much, assuming that I would do everything twice. If you wish, PM me your address and I can post sample examples of their material of you to look at - otherwise Woolies are happy to send samples out.

 

 

PS I am not advertising my services - only offering my experiences as Chief Forum Technical Bodger

Edited May 20, 2015 by McMuttley

[tr graham]

thank you Stuart and McMuttley

lots to think about now .

regards

graham

[JeffR]

Hi Graham,

 

Looks like a good job - well done. I'm just about to start the same job on an original old hard top i've recently acquired, so much appreciate the step by step instructions.

 

Mine still has the original furry lining stuck to the underside of the hardtop and over the hoop that goes across the middle. Getting all this off will probably be the worst part of the job. Not sure what's best to use for this. i've heard WD40 can act as a good solvent for the old glue.

 

I have a question regarding the steel hoop. On one side of my hardtop there are a few small rust bubbles on the external side of the hardtop just above where the hoop comes in to the cant rail. It looks as though i'll need to repair this area first. Do you know if it's possible to remove the hoop or is it welded to the sides of the hardtop. As far as i can tell from your photos it looks as though you removed yours in the recovering process?

 

Cheers,

 

JEFF

[McMuttley]

My hoop / bar was held in only by 'rust friction'

 

It sits in there under tension, so one adhesion is broken, a thin scraper under the middle should pop it up

 

You can ease each end out one of a time, is is (hopefully still) quite springy so will flex a lot, but be carefull not to put a bend into it !

 

 

Nice to see so many of starting work on hardtops in time for the summer !

[foster461]

My hoop / bar was held in only by 'rust friction'

 

It sits in there under tension, so one adhesion is broken, a thin scraper under the middle should pop it up

 

You can ease each end out one of a time, is is (hopefully still) quite springy so will flex a lot, but be carefull not to put a bend into it !

 

 

Nice to see so many of starting work on hardtops in time for the summer !

 

Summer is the paint and glue season.

[JeffR]

Thanks McMuttley,

 

That makes things a whole lot easier and has spurred me on to get this job done ready for the rainy season (otherwise known as summer)!

 

Cheers,

 

Jeff

[stuart]

The hoop is sprung steel but you can still bend it so be careful removing and re-fitting.

Stuart.

[Lastly10]

This is the scrim foam I've used before. Was happy with the results.

[R.M.]

when i come to restore mine i think i will just paint the inside and not bother lining it, just because it will remind me of my workshop with its low pitched roof and it's ability to hold an amazing amount of water on the underside and joy of joys when it warms up during the day it can then drop its load on my head just like the workshop does, am i complaining, you betcha, i would kick it but the resulting deluge would put my flame out, more pleasant working outside on a rainy day. has this got anything to do with the post, no but i wanted to moan that's all.