Engine partialy recondition flatrates ?

[tr6tuga]

Hi Gents

 

While whaiting for a refurb MU, was planning to get the trust ! washer replaced, check the bearings and oil pump.

I don't have the means to do it my self, so asking a smal local shop to do it, question is how long does +- it takes to:

1. Check end float, take the sump, replace thrust washers and bearings, oil pump and back together
2. Take the head, check and replace valve seats
3. Deglase clinder bore, new piston ring set
4. If possible to do all this without removing the engine

Thank you for advice, but I don´t whant to pay too much for labor, parts is quite easy to ad costs

 

[boxofbits]

You might find that the labour content exceeds that of the parts.

 

It would be difficult to 'save' time on a job like this, as it needs to be done properly. I think to get a benchmark figure you should approach say three specialists with work detailed on a like-for-like basis to get accurate quotes. Ask around on forums/ friends etc for good machine shops in your area as the cheapest might not be the best.

 

Kevin

[oldtuckunder]

Hi Gents

 

While whaiting for a refurb MU, was planning to get the trust ! washer replaced, check the bearings and oil pump.

I don't have the means to do it my self, so asking a smal local shop to do it, question is how long does +- it takes to:

1. Check end float, take the sump, replace thrust washers and bearings, oil pump and back together
2. Take the head, check and replace valve seats
3. Deglase clinder bore, new piston ring set
4. If possible to do all this without removing the engine

Thank you for advice, but I don´t whant to pay too much for labor, parts is quite easy to ad costs

 

Just my 4 penny worth but

If I was doing all that I'd take the engine out, apart from removing the crank and the cam to do that lot is a virtual engine strip. I would charge more just for the pure awkwardness of doing it insitue with your arms above your head for a couple of hours. I know others do it but I also wouldn't deglaze bores with the crank installed below you never know what **** is going to remain in there even if you try and cover it.

 

You are so close to a complete strip with your task list, that it would be a shame not to so that you can check wear on the mains, cam shaft and oil seals at the same time. Parts wise there would be zero difference in cost, and timewise I don't think there would be much difference, quality wise the full strip would be way better.

 

If your looking for a quick cheap job then, get the end float measured insitue, if its within tollerance then leave well alone. Do a wet and dry compression test and if all is well assume that valves and rings are OK'ish, get the oil pressure tested and if OK Hot and Cold leave well alone, if a bit low then by all means drop the sump and replace the pump (a fairly quick job) if the pressure improves great, if it doesn't then you know at some point that you are heading for a full engine strip anyway.

[elclem1]

A grand all day long!

[Peter Cobbold]

If the oil pressure is good, the end float within tolerance, the compressions similar and its not burning oil, why do anything?

The chances of ev seat recession happening is very low, unless you do lots of driving at high rpm at high load.

Peter

[tr6tuga]

Wise advise felows members:-)

I ll check the sump and pump, then decide.

It looks as if a full engine rebuild would cost as much as the parts required, so I ll take time to decide

thank you

Jose