meesonia Posted March 12, 2015 Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Hi Roger, Good interesting stuff, I purchased an original Surrey Frame & Top last year, steel top in good nick with headliner and front chrome trim, backlight is aluminium frame but the "glass" is plastic, either polycarbonate or Perspex. It needs to come out, which should be straight forward rubber Is hard and perished do I'll have to cut carefully, but he question is getting it back in afterwards, anyone any experience of plastic rear lights, do they go back in easily or is it a right sod? Appreciate any advice please, thanks. Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2015 Hi Ian, haven't played with a plastic window before so not really my area. However I would have thought it wouldn't be a great deal different to a glass screen. Whatever you do you need to fit the top first as this will allow the side to slip in easily. Then you can concentrate on the bottom. The Moss seal works well. I had my frame off the car and this gave me plenty of room around it. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 13, 2015 Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 Hi Roger, Good interesting stuff, I purchased an original Surrey Frame & Top last year, steel top in good nick with headliner and front chrome trim, backlight is aluminium frame but the "glass" is plastic, either polycarbonate or Perspex. It needs to come out, which should be straight forward rubber Is hard and perished do I'll have to cut carefully, but he question is getting it back in afterwards, anyone any experience of plastic rear lights, do they go back in easily or is it a right sod? Appreciate any advice please, thanks. Ian I have a perspex rear window and I have to admit it was fun fitting it on my own as when you got it in one end then the other had a tendency to slide out as its not quite as thick as glass and a lot more "Bendy" but it went in finally OK, you will need to seal it though. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
meesonia Posted April 25, 2015 Report Share Posted April 25, 2015 Hi all Belated update, got the "light" out of the frame which turned out to be glass, and not the Perspex I'd thought it was. Should have known by the weight anyway. However, I need to replace the Headliner material which goes around the Frame inside, series of overlapping strips, but I'm struggling to find a source, Moss don't seem to do it. John Skinner do it but include the Steel roof section as well, I'm waiting for a price from them, but feel it could be expensive. Does anyone know any other sources, or do I just buy Headliner material on line and make up my own? Thanks. Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
simonjrwinter Posted April 25, 2015 Report Share Posted April 25, 2015 eBay was where I found my headliner for my backlight. Ordered a couple of metres and glued it. Easy peasy Simon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 25, 2015 Report Share Posted April 25, 2015 Moss do a kit, though it too includes the headliner.It is the correct grain etc. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted April 25, 2015 Report Share Posted April 25, 2015 I bought the whole kit from Moss.This included the surrey top lining and backlite trimming. Fitting is okay.I have done it now several times.Make sure the spray adhesive is the high temperature one and not the ones you buy from the sheds that do carpet. Regards Harry. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2015 Hi Ian, I found that over the years the white trimming gets very dirty and I couldn't really keep it clean. When I renovated the frame the other month I decided to not put it back. For the bar the goes around the side/back (just above the rear seat panel I left that Black painted and it looks good (as the panel is black also). For the vertical sides and the section above your head I did in brushed stainless steel (0.5 ot 0.6mm). It is a complex shape and took some time (and cock ups) to sort. It is made in two halves with a small joining strip in the middle (like the screen finisher) Annoyingly I had to get a second sheet due to a minor cock up and it wasn't until I had finished that I noticed it has a different brush effect. I have enough remake it to match. Just like Everest - you have to do it. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
simonjrwinter Posted April 25, 2015 Report Share Posted April 25, 2015 You can of course also buy black headlining material......... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
meesonia Posted May 21, 2015 Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 Hi all Further Surry Frame update, got the Seals & stuff from Moss, and I know Roger said at the top of this thread the Seal is "too Long" but it all does go in, I've offered it to both the Frame & Glass and it's condsiderably over size see pics, do I just need to persevere with it? Also I've offered the Frame onto the car, and the fixing holes lined up pretty good with the exception of the B Post studs, the studs are too far out board by at least half the stud each side very equal. I think I'm on the point of answering my own question here, as the flange for the Seal / Furlex lines up bang on with the flange coming up from the B Pillar, I'm inclined to open up the holes, the Frame doesn't seem to want to flex very easily, and ifit did teh flanges then wouldn't line up. As ever appreciate your thoughts. By the way do you like the old GP stickers? Thare are more around the bottom of the glass, Watkins Glen, Long Beach, Anderstorp, Osterreichring, real blasts from the past, think I'll leave them on. Cheers Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 Hi Ian, if it is a Moss seal it should fit. When you lay it up try squishing the free end into where the previous bot of seal sits - this may take up some of the slack. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 21, 2015 Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 I have fitted two in the last week and the rubber is too long for a reason so it goes down into the corners properly. When you fit the rubber to the glass be care ful to get an equal amount of the excess at each corner. You cant actually rely on the fact that the join is in the middle either as its slightly off!. When fitting use plenty of lube and start at the top centre with your string.Its not an easy one to fit but at least with an original toughened glass you can thump them around quite a bit to get them in. You often find that the Stud fixing at the "B" post top doesnt line up exactly as often the deck extension has been replaced and its difficult to get the captive nut fitted in exactly the right place. Often even on cars with original extensions that were soft top from new they still didnt line up when converting to Surrey. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2015 Hi Ian, as Stuart states when you come to fitting start at the top. Unlike the front screen where you slot the bottom in first the rear screen needs the top in first so that the vertical side easily slide into their position. If you start with the bottom slotted in first the sides will be nowhere near fitting. I used the string method and it went in fairly easily. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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