Jump to content


TR Register Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About meesonia

Profile Information

  • Location
    West Yorkshire
  • Cars Owned:
    Yorkshire Dales, walking & drinking in. MK2 Escorts (have one a 1600 Sport) Triumph TR4A, have one, 1967 for resto,

Recent Profile Visitors

496 profile views
  1. Is it also because the Rimmer one is an MG Rover application. Even with the Revington one you still have to swap the Runner.
  2. Hi all Can someone please advise the grade of Sikaflex to use in gluing the glass into channel? 255 & 256 seem candidates. I did message Allan a few days ago asking which he had used, but not se3n a reply yet. Thanks. Ian
  3. Hi Brian, I was at my local tyre shop last week getting new boots on the wife’s Golf, I asked the guy if they could balance wires and he said yes. They are a good outfit, I recall a group member had his Jag 4 wheel aligned a few years ago. The company is Link Tyres in Mirfield, give them a call. No affiliation, just a long term customer. Ian
  4. Hi It's 6BA guys, the tap arrived yesterday, the UNC one is still to come. But 6BA was a good fit with the screw thread, even with my poor "mince pies" so with careful introduction to the hole it went down a treat, and the screws now go in perfect. Ian
  5. Thanks Roger / Bob, I've ordered both taps, a 3-48UNC & a 6BA, cheap enough on the bay for what I need. I'll let you know. Cheers Ian
  6. Hi Just jumping on the back of this, I've had my Handles away for chrome plating, and I'm now re assembling them. There are 2 small Csk screws that hold the backplate on, pic attached, anyone know what size these are? The tapped holes in the Handle have got some crud in them, I've cleaned out the worst, but the screw is still very tight, so could do to run a tap down. The screw measures 0.107 inches dia, so puts it close to 6BA. Is this likely? My TPI thread gauge only goes down to 28, but on the other side, which I guess is metric, a 0.5mm looks to be very close. which brings me ba
  7. Found some pics of mine during strip down Ian
  8. Hi it’s owned by Webb’s of Weybridge, they hire out classics, it also made an appearance on Antiques Road Trip a couple of years ago. Ian
  9. Hello Mike Slightly off topic but what colour is your interior trim, is it Shadow Grey? I'm getting to the interior trim point of my 4A rebuild and can't decide on Midnight Blue or Shadow Grey. Midnight Blue I believe being on elf the original colours. Cheers Ian
  10. Hi all Hope cabin fever hasn't set in yet? Maybe you can put your collective minds to my B Post problem please. It's regarding the angle of the B Post. This is not the vertical angle but the angle from the face of the Rear wing, Incidentally we haven't touched the B Posts during the rebuild they were all ok, so obviously replaced by previous PO. Trouble started trying to get the Door gaps and include the restraint arm, and the door catch. The door catch is only engaged by about 3mm, the restraint arm is about 4mm clear. I compared the angle with a friends TR4, and his angle is some 2
  11. Hi bit of a report of Sundays Algarve Historic Car Festival in TR Motorsport Cheers Ian
  12. Hi all, on holiday in Portugal, staying near Lagos, and yesterday, Sunday the 3rd went to the Autodromo Circuit for the last day of the weekends Historic Classic Car Festival. the tickets included Paddock as well. I hadn't really looked at the format in any great detail, but wow what a day, and what machinery, from Mk1 Escorts, Cortina's and Minis all the way up to GT 40's, McClarens, Porsche, AC's, Ferrari's. Astons, Jaguars, Frazer Nash, and low and behold in the GT & Sports Car Cup, pre 1966 2 hour race, a TR4. What a surprise, and what a race he had, coming 8th overall, and winnin
  13. Hi Waldi Thanks for your comments, I'm ok with understanding of fitting the shims, both adding and removing to achieve the gaps. I have improved the situation by lifting the tub off the chassis 50mm or so then lowering back down, it does seem to sit better now. Just a bit puzzled by your last paragraph that you took 3mm rubber shim from the B post, I thought the idea was the tub generally sat on the rubber strips on the chassis? That means your tub generally must have been sitting high off the Chassis, as you can't physically sit the tub any lower than the chassis. Unless I've mis underst
  14. Thanks for the replies guys, just to clarify the chassis is laden, ie engine & gearbox in place. under both the tub 4 bolt A post fixing point & the 3 bolt B post fixing point I have fitted the standard 3mm thick metal plates sandwiched between the 2 rubber pads. Cheers Ian
  15. Hello Started to fit the painted tub back on the chassis. After a few attempts it won't quite sit down on the forward 4 bolt fixing pads. Checking underneath there is approx 4 or 5mm gap, roughly equal side to side. The rear part of the tub just forward of the diff bridge I can clearly see the tub is sat on the rubber strips. If I get number 2 son to carefully stand on the forward part of the sill, the bit that is hidden behind the front wing, then the gap closes up. He gets off, it opens up again. We didn't spot this at the pre paint build up, so maybe something had got slightly spr
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.