Revington stainless rally manifold/ system

[Bob Horner]

Anyone got any experience of this manifold/system? A little bit pricy perhaps. The website talks of possibly needed to grind chassis/tight fit etc etc. Given that a lot of stuff doesn't fit well even when there are no warnings, could this be a nightmare? I do get a bit fed up of stuff not quite matching up to its billing and supplier, when questioned saying "oh, i thought you would have realised your tr4 would need to have its body removed/ completely redesigned/ not be able to use the steering wheel/ converted to left had drive etc etc".

 

Regards

Bob

[RogerH]

Hi Bob,

I fitted a TRRev manifold in the late 90's and as it says on the box the top flange of the chassis rail needs to be trimmed back to allow the down pipes fit.

This shouldn't affect the chassis strength. Even with a minimal gap the pipes stay clear.

 

I had to change it sometime later as I bent it by reversing into a kerb and the whole exhaust system shunted forward and bent the down pipes a fraction.

The Phoenix replacement fitted OK as the chassis had been trimmed.

 

Roger

[Noel Maule]

Hi Bob,

Ten minutes with an angle grinder and mine was fitted. No real problem there. Just take a little of the chassis lip off at a time until you have clearance. You don't need much and there's plenty of metal in that area so as Roger says, it wont cause any weakening. The only hassle I myself experienced was getting the manifold to seal against the head as the thickness of the inlet manifold is greater than the Stainless manifold and the clamps wouldn't tighten it sufficiently. Again, adjustment with a grinder here and there or maybe some spacers will sort it. No real worries. Glad I fitted it. No regrets.

Noel

[Ian Vincent]

Hi Bob,

The only hassle I myself experienced was getting the manifold to seal against the head as the thickness of the inlet manifold is greater than the Stainless manifold and the clamps wouldn't tighten it sufficiently. Again, adjustment with a grinder here and there or maybe some spacers will sort it. No real worries.

 

 

You will have the same issue with a Phoenix manifold. I welded small fillets of 3mm strip at the appropriate places to increase the thickness to the same as the inlet manifold.

 

Rgds Ian

[Guest ntc]

Makes you think why the heck they sell them when they don't fit ? the five p's comes to mind

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

You will have the same issue with a Phoenix manifold. I welded small fillets of 3mm strip at the appropriate places to increase the thickness to the same as the inlet manifold.

Rgds Ian

I sat 1/2 nuts (JN2108) between the manifold clamps and the thinner manifold flange on my Bastuck exhaust manifold. It has all the same issues as the others I have seen on the market.

 

Cheers

Peter W

[TorontoTim]

Makes you think why the heck they sell them when they don't fit ? the five p's comes to mind

I have to say I agree, Neil. I can't imagine that it's any harder to get the flanges to actually be the correct thickness...er...can it?

 

My version (not Revington) is similar, btw. Better than many, but still not quite as thick as the inlet (or, obviously, the cast iron original) - I use thick washers, cunningly placed to add depth.

Edited June 23, 2014 by TorontoTim

[stuart]

Funny how the original Derrington or SAH steel 4 branch`s never had any of those problems. The flanges were the correct thickness and the curves were correct to miss the chassis and not foul on the inlet manifolds.

Stuart.

[Alec Pringle]

Agreed Stuart, there's no need for exhausts to foul any damn thing.

 

I have here a trio of 4-branch manifolds from way back when - all of which fit properly, no problem.

 

If folks who buy **** modern exhaust systems returned to their suppliers and beat the blokes over the head with said exhausts, then the situation might improve. As long as we're stupid enough to gouge chunks out of other components as a remedy, the products won't improve.

 

If we act like mushrooms, we'll only get bullshit. But then that's become something of a TRadition.

 

Rather like 4A OE manifolds - they didn't all crack. They cracked because of incorrectly mounted badly made pattern exhausts, and/or worn out engine/gearbox mounts.

 

Cheers

 

Alec

[Bob Horner]

I agree Alec but the volumes are so low and the alternatives aren't that wide, that I think they don't really care.

 

Also, there are plenty of people who order the parts and have no idea whether they were a pig to fit or not. The garage that fits them gets the blame for high labour charges and even then probably doesn't pass on the full cost of fettling them for fear of upsetting a regular customer.

 

My experience of the suppliers is that they all can be a bit aloof and patronising to their customers when something isn't quite up to scratch - hence my initial comments about not being able to use the steering wheel etc.

 

However, thanks for all the input so far. It seems that it's no worse than any others!!

 

regards

 

Bob

[Ian Vincent]

There is some excuse for the manufacturers of SS manifolds. They are fabricating the manifold flange using a piece of steel plate. This is much stronger than the original cast iron and there would be a cost as well as weight saving from using the thinner section.

 

It would be ice though if they added the small pieces to increase the thickness to match the inlet manifold instead of leaving it to the purchaser.

 

In every other respect it fitted perfectly.

 

Rgds Ian