Replacements

[david c]

Oh wise ones I come seeking the wisdom of the ..............oh you know!

 

Having stripped all the "bits" off the engine block I'm left with many decisions to make.

The starter motor. Clean up and stick it back on or shell out on an all singing all dancing High Torque job?

The Dynamo same question really, but I suspect if I put an alternator in I will have to change the belt and it's associated pulleys, and mess about with the wiring?

I have already decided to fit the adaptor kit to the oil pump so I can use spin on filters.

 

And finally, for today anyway.

The clutch is seized on, is this going to make for big problems when I attempt to lift out the block?( I am opting for lifting the engine only as I am chicken about trying to lift the whole shooting match) and best I ask now rather than find out when I start lifting!

 

I have a lift eye at the front of the block which is nice but nothing at the back.....suggestions please, I have bought one of those levelling things for the engine crane.

 

That's probably enough to be getting on with for now, so it's off to set up the BBQ, oh what fun.

 

 

 

[RogerH]

Hi David,

the original starter is fine. If it does not need changing then don't change it.

The new HT starters are a mixed blessing. When working they work well and can be replaced/removed easily.

You can have initial problems fitting them correctly and their life is anything between 3 years and forever.

 

Dynamo's are adequate but the regulator can have problems. You can easily fit an Alternator with fat or thin pulleys and the wires that would normally go to the regulator are simply linked out. This is a fit and forget mod.

 

The clutch being seized shouldn;t affect removing the gearbox from the engine and once the pressure plate is removed the stuck friction plate will knock off.

If you have a reasonable hydraulic hoist then removing engine with gearbox is not a problem especially as you have the leveling bar. Fitting it this way pays dividens.

 

Good luck

 

Roger

[littlejim]

Reference lift eye, you should find the back one under the control valve/tap for the heater.% Back of the block, carby side. Its top bolt is last head bolt. bottom bolt is last bolt on manifold.

I lifted the whole caboodle out in one piece, low ceiling made it a bit harder but still possible.

I stuck with old starter (refurbished by expert). Put in a Moss alternator* (with heat shield) with narrow belt.#

* also stuck with ammeter which still works. For appearances I wired it via the voltage regulator with inside bits chopped around and shorted out to suit the new set up, but you can bypass it if you want.

% have piccie of it if you need to see it.

# I got rid of the water pump. made a blanking plate to cover the hole, and put in a Davies-Craig electric water pump. Most fixer uppers wouldn't want to do that.

[david c]

Thanks gentlemen.

Sounds like what you are saying is if it 'aint broke don't fix it, probably sage advise and will also save a bob or two.

I think I will go for an alternator and will be back to ask what "simply" linked out actually means, (I hate electrics, simply don't understand them enough)

As for engine and gearbox / overdrive unit all out at once..............I'll see if I can get another pair of hands for an hour or so.

Glad to see the stuck clutch shouldn't be a problem, I think I tend to over think things, had visions of bits of heavy metal flying about the "workshop"

Jim have looked again for the rear lift eye, nothing obvious. The heater control valve wont budge so I plan to leave to in place and be careful not to bash it. Would be glad of any pictures you can send, though at this stage it's not urgent. Replace the water pump.........I think probably not if it works when it's all back together!

[littlejim]

hope this helps.

 

Somebody might have removed yours. I think they are listed in the Moss cattledog.

[AlanT]

I would only switch to an alternator if you plan on heavy electrical loads like extra lights or a sound system.

 

To me the ammeter wagging about is part of the period charm. It will stay on zero with an alternator.

 

The dynamo and regulator is fixable at any time in the future with a file and a soldering iron.

 

Alternators rely on semiconductors which suprisingly have a life limited basically by water vapour.

And you can't fix em and maybe you will be able to get a spare maybe you won't.

 

If you do swap keep the old parts in case you don't like it.

[david c]

Ah Ha I see what you are saying Jim the steel hook wosname I did'nt think it looked man enough, but thinking about again if you can lift the engine with rope then this lump of steel must be up to the job.

Alan I take your point, I think for now I will leave well enough alone, Im not planing on blasting out the neighbours with my somewhat eclectic musical taste, and I do like the idea of the gauges flickering about, make a nice change from the souless dashboard on the normal car.

Thanks again for all the helpull advise.

[RogerH]

Hi David,

make sure that the rear lifting eye is bolted both at the head stud and the manifold stud quite tightly.

Otherwise it could bend and damage the manifold stud etc.

[AlanT]

To me if you want a car with all mod-cons you can get an MX5, an MGF or something.

 

Of course if you want to drive your TR to italy in the rain you probably want an alternator.

Its just down to the owner.

 

Regulators are fiddly but all the service data is available.

[ianc]

As you will have things apart, check the brushes in both starter motor and dynamo, if you wish to stick with them.

 

Swapping to an alternator is easy - see my article in Section J4 of the Technicalities CD, and a later article which Jim Christie and I wrote for TR Action 248 (March 2011). I consider the change to alternator, which I made 21 years ago, and to the narrow pulleys (which I made somewhat later) very worthwhile as it means one does not have to worry about power consumption and a change of fan belt is so much easier. But do fit a heat shield to stop the alternator getting cooked by the exhaust manifold!

 

Ian Cornish

[Fireman049]

Hi David ~

 

I fitted a HT starter and an Alternator to my 3A. Much better in my opinion.

If you PM me your eMail address I'll send you the modified wiring diagram for the control box.

I kept my control box inorder to keep the engine bay looking original.

When I asked a car electrician how much it would cost to convert my control box

he quoted £100!!

STUFF THAT I thought and I worked it out for myself.

 

Cheers ~

Tom.