cotswold Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 Hello, I am in the process of buying a TR4A that has been laid up off road since 1998, fairly good condition, clutch stuck to flywheel I suspect. I see it has TR6 Wheels and would like to change these to 72 spoke chrome wires. In another comment someone says use spacers rather than cut down studs but doesn't the use of spacers make the tyres protrud from wings? Maybe a silly question but just asking? Thanks Charles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dykins Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 I can assure you from personal experience that 72 spokes with 15x175 would fit, but would protrude as they are 5.5Js (as opposed the standard 4.5J on TR4 and 4As) The only way to make them fit would be by flattening off the rear wheel arch lips, Which is an awful lot of bother. I would suggest not going for the centre laced but rather choose 62 spokes and cut down the studs as even they can be a little too wide Oh, and I would go for stainless over chrome rather than just chrome. There is nothing more satisfying than spending a few hours cleaning and polishing each wheel during the Spring in readiness for the season - as many fellow forumites will attest Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Harvey Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 Buy a set of 72 spoke 5" chrome over stainless standard new wires and suitable tyres. There are great deals from the specialists on the complete package including wire wheel adaptors and spinners assuming the TR6 wheels are steel. Cut down the studs and they will look exactly right in the wheel arches or buy new ones if you are in doubt. No point in fitting spacers as they will spoil the handling and steering of the car. If you really insist on filling the arches you can go wider on the wheels but it depends on your suspension set-up whether you will get clearance issues. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 +1 with Paul on cutting the studs. Unless you plan to regularly switch between center-lock and studded wheels, why not? (I went through this same debate converting my car from disk to wire wheels a few years ago, decided to cut my original studs, and haven't looked back once.) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 Not only that but if you want to go for alloy wheels at some point they can be specified with centre lock hubs as in my picture below. Best of both worlds. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cotswold Posted April 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 Thanks Guys, I get the cutting the studs and the Chrome over SS 72 spoke wires, but are we all agreed they will fit in the existing arches and look right as I dont want to mess about with the originality of the body shape. Is there a recommended tyre size then? Who would you recommend for the conversion package supply please? Thanks again Charles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dykins Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 (edited) Thanks Guys, I get the cutting the studs and the Chrome over SS 72 spoke wires, but are we all agreed they will fit in the existing arches and look right as I dont want to mess about with the originality of the body shape. Is there a recommended tyre size then? Who would you recommend for the conversion package supply please? Thanks again Charles No, we are not agreed 72 spoke will be proud of your arches (they are centre laced). I bought some from TR Shop in London and had to return them for 60 spoke for this very reason. If you use the search facility you can read the saga I went through... Edited April 16, 2014 by dykins Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cotswold Posted April 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 Thanks, where did you source them? BTW love the colour of your TR. Charles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike3md Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 Think carefully about tyre size - too low a profile will affect the look more than the wheels imho, as well as the speedo accuracy. This site will help you to compare: http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/?page=tyre.htm Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dykins Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 Charles I took my 72 spoke wheels back to TR Shop and exchanged them (with a partial refund) for the 60 spoke versions. I went from steel wheels to wire, so needed the adapter hubs, spinners etc. TR Shop did a sort of package deal - they seem to still do something similar according to the last page of their current flyer http://www.trshop.co.uk/special.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 16, 2014 Report Share Posted April 16, 2014 Hi Charles, Some of the above numbers are getting confused. There are 60 spoke wheels that will fit your wheel arches. The are 70 spoke centre laced wheels that may be pretty close to the outer edge of the arch and a fat tyre takes it outside. And there are 72 spoke wheels that may actually sit within the arch. To ease the problem I would suggest using 165x15x80 tyres on the 5.5J wheels. If you are concerned about buying these wheels and then finding they don't fit why don't you pop down to your local group and ask if anybody has a wheel you can try It is easy enough to change the studs from standard to short. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cotswold Posted April 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2014 Thanks guys all very helpful information, will now research options. Have a good Summer! Charles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rookie Posted April 17, 2014 Report Share Posted April 17, 2014 (edited) My TR4A has MWS 72 spoke (MWS are what most dealers seem to offer) 15"X5.5 painted wires. The tyres are 185/65 and the wheels/tyres seem to fit perfectly - looks pretty standard really and doesn't stick out noticeably. Mine's not a converted stud wheel car though - not sure if that makes any difference. The centre-laced 70 spoke ones do stick out though because they've got a different offset - not sure why. I like the look of the centre-laced wheels but they look wrong because of the offset, Edited April 17, 2014 by Rookie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shuggie159 Posted April 17, 2014 Report Share Posted April 17, 2014 (edited) Several years ago, I lost the use of my garage over a couple of winter months, and had to use a winter tarpaulin. No real harm done except the wires deteriorated badly. They were the chromed type. Many of the spokes peeled and rust was beginning to form. Heart breaking but there was nothing I could do. I couldn't source individual chomed spokes, so at considerable expense I ditched the chrome wires and went for knock-on alloys. I think perfect shiney chrome is by far and away the most beautiful solution, but I know the overheads of chrome; and that cleaning and polishing are onerous tasks that need to be done regularly not as mentioned once a season. Stainless are not quite as shiney, but are the way to go. But if your lazy and enjoy driving more than polishing, knock-on alloys IMHO. Edited April 17, 2014 by shuggie159 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted April 19, 2014 Report Share Posted April 19, 2014 Hi Charles ~ I fitted my TR3A with a set of Dunlop 'D' type centre lock alloy wheels. I think they suit all TR's much better than the 'Minilite' type wheels. I'm sorry I can't send a photo. as my poxy PC has gone down (again!) ~ Sorry! Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Willie Felger Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 Hello Charles. For the same price you could use Aston Martin wheels. The rims and splines are the same but they are set 15mm further in. On my TR3A I can get 205 section Avons under the arches with clearance whereas the 185 Firestones on TR6 wheels are very tight and can rub. Steering lock seems not to be affected. I'm not advocating 205 section tyres, they just happen to be fitted and I'll be changing them, just the wheels. Good luck, Willie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Harvey Posted April 20, 2014 Report Share Posted April 20, 2014 http://www.mwsint.com/custom/FitmentGuide/DisplayEntry.asp?category=87&carId=FG000048&make=TR&CarYear= MWS guide will tell you everything you need to know & I believe MWS are now the suppliers to all the specialists. As far as I know: Centre laced wheels protrude about 1" more than the same normally laced wheels and so are more likely to foul the wheel arch for the same width rim (read about inset and outset) The number of spokes only affects the strength of the wheel, not the inset/outset. Old TRs had 48 spokes which are really only suitable for shows. 60 spoke was standard original fitment for TR3 on and perfectly suitable if in good condition. 70 or 72 spoke makes sense for fast road use or just extra strength and peace of mind. Because of the extra load created by the outset, centre laced wheels are only available in 70 spoke from MWS. You have to fit hub adaptors to mount any kind of centre lock wheel which increase the track by over an inch but this was done by the factory as there is no other way to mount these wheels on the hubs. If you have the original steel wheel studs they will be too long for wire wheels and must be cut down or replaced with shorter ones in order not to foul the wheel. 15" x 5.5"J 72 spoke wires with 185/70HR15 tyres will fit under standard TR4/5 wheelarches without a problem (that's what I have on my 4A even with slightly lowered springs.) There is a debate about the best tyre size to fit as this affects the handling of the car. It also affects the calibration but an original speedometer is likely to be so far out as to make the difference largely irrelevant. Get the speedo properly calibrated for the wheel/tyre combination if you want it right. It is possible to get wire wheels which bolt straight on to the original hubs without adaptors but I haven't seen these on a TR. At least in theory, a wider 6" rim would fit in this instance but you would probably need power steering to park the damn thing. Special wire wheels with different inset/outset are available for competition use or with wider wheel arches or to allow bigger tyres. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cotswold Posted April 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 Wow you guys are great, I am buying the 4a tomorrow and will take a good look at these advices re the wheels and tyres, would be good to see your car sometime Paul you are quite near me in Warwickshire ,I am in Longborough near Moreton in Marsh. Thanks again Charles Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Harvey Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 Cotswold Charles, Welcome to the Forum - glad you find our blatherings of interest. Let us see and hear about the 4A when she's yours. By all means PM me if you want to swap notes or see the car. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve R Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 "Old TRs had 48 spokes which are really only suitable for shows" Oops, do i have to get a trailer then??. . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Harvey Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 Steve, They look fabulous. I'm sure you check them regularly and drive accordingly. I'm told you can feel them flex under hard cornering - is that true? Great to see our cars in original specification. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve R Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 Paul Hard cornering? the grip goes before i get to that point! The wheels have been replaced with new ones during the 15 years of my ownership, but the driving experience is so far removed from a modern car that it's difficult to know whether they flex or not. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Harvey Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 Drift, slide, flex - all part of the joys of classic motoring. And all at speeds which leave room for manoeuvre. I'm trying to persuade my 16 year old daughter she should learn to drive in a classic car so she feels what is happening with the machine at her command and allows time to react accordingly. He mother, of course, wants ABS, airbags, and electronic interference from the machine to keep her 'safe.' Interesting discussion. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RandallD Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 I thnk the debate gets more heated on cutting wheel studs if you are contemplating the conversion on a TR3, 4, or solid axle version of the 4A - in those cases the rear studs are very difficult to change out and I would resist the temptation to do any cutting. The spacers are really not that evil. But for an IRS car, cut away. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Harvey Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 I don't see the problem with cutting the studs, other than you cannot then mount standard steel wheels. Bolt up the hub adaptors first and cut the protruding stud. Simples. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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