Guest ntc Posted January 8, 2014 Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 Looks good just make sure moisture does not attack it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulAA Posted January 8, 2014 Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 ... question answered. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted January 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 Interesting, I've tried Danish oil on the test piece and it's looking quite good. I have two oak veneer doors on the house, which are Danish oiled and look great. They do need bi-annual oiling, but then they are exposed to the weather, so the dash should be fine? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 8, 2014 Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 Condensation alone will kill it and it will lift you of all should know there are products to stop this? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulAA Posted January 8, 2014 Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 Boldly go where no dash has gone before. If doesn't work, I'll willingly swap your warped dash for the highly-prized fumes in my cabin. To be fair, I think the question is probably over the resilience of the adhesive in the iron-on veneer. The rice-pudding effect on my dash (skillfully applied with a used toothbrush by the PO) is due for renewal and I'm speculating that going down the Gorilla Glue route with new veneer, to prevent lifting, may be worth a try. No harm in honourable failure. Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted January 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 Hmmm, the condensation point may be correct. However I am committed now! My experiences with Danish Oil have all been good, let's see how this one turns out...... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted January 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 Photo.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulAA Posted January 8, 2014 Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 Good man! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 8, 2014 Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 (edited) Steve I would have coated it inside and out including edges with Cetol TSI satin plus Edited January 8, 2014 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulAA Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 Steve Keen to see what the dash looks like re-installed. Will you post some pictures when done? Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted January 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 Here it is back in the car Paul. Now for a 'Quick Dash and Instruments refurb' I am well chuffed with the result, and the look of the 'Oiled Teak' and everything works, well after i had the dash out and back in a couple of times ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marki Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 Looks great Steve Was it much of a job cutting around the instrument holes, it's a job I'm not looking forward to. Well done Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianhoward Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 Looks good! Cheers Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bodiam Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 Very attractive, Steve, nice work indeed. I now feel inspired to have a go! Best wishes, John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted January 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 (edited) Thanks guys I am pleased with the result. Cutting out the Instrument holes was far easier than i thought it would be. I bought two types of knives for the job, a 'micro scalpel' with blades about 3mm long and extremely sharp, and £3 'snap off blade' general purpose jobbie. the £3 one did the job a treat, with the 'micro scalpels' only used for a tiny bit of trimming. my technique was to trim coarsely from the BACK of the panel, then turn it over for fine trimming from the front. I then used a Dremmel with sanding flap-wheel/sanding disk/stone to sand as necessary. Wooden block to sand the edges. For the Scrw holes I drilled a pilot from the back of the panel, then used a Dremel with a rounded cone to make the countersink, this worked beautifully. I did not renew the 'brown Paint' on the back and edges and given more time i would do this, for a fully professional finish. One lesson, the iron on veneer does need to be pretty hot to work !, i had to go back over a few areas and was worried about overheating, particularly as for one area i had already applied Danish Oil. But all was fine, i used an old Pillow Case under the Iron and weighted the reheated areas with a block of wood and motorcycle battery. so that's the job done...... rear hubs and drive shafts next ( when it warms up !) Steve PS, i only used half of the veneer that i bought so if anyone wants the second half its available! Edited January 9, 2014 by SDerbyshire Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulAA Posted January 9, 2014 Report Share Posted January 9, 2014 Well done, Steve Thanks for posting the pictures - it looks super. Interesting to see how frequently you feel it needs to be re-olied. Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
D Murton Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 It looks very good Steve & just what I need to do on my 4a Did you cut the glovebox hole in the veneer before or after gluing as that is what I thought would be the most tricky as you need to keep the piece to do the lid to get the grain to match. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted January 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 Thanks Paul and Dave I carefully secured the glove box lid in the correct location, ie centred in the hole with the hinge recesses lined up, and gaffa taped it in place from behind ( being careful to avoid creases in the tape.....) then ironed on the veneer and using the 'snap off' knife carefully cut the door free from the back of the panel on a flat surface. It was pretty straight forward. I have spare veneer if you'd like it. steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
D Murton Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 Thanks for the offer Steve but I should have a piece of walnut veneer up in the loft. If I can find it I hope mine looks as good as yours. I was also going to use danish oil. I've used it on all sorts of things inside & out with good results. I did think of using SP Resins Ultravar which I have used on wooden dinghys but it would take quite a bit of work on a dashboard I think Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr6tuga Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 Hi Fellow menbers Tha weather is "also" terrible down here so plan to do it. Come across these magical termo glue veneer for €20, it's just a matter of iron it Any Members experience ? Thank you Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulAA Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 Steve Thanks for the offer, but I suspect that the postage to Poland will be more than buying a piece of veneer locally Cheers Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted January 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 Hi tr6tuga, not sure of your name! I've not seen that product, but my veneer was iron on and went well. I bought from 'veneers online' who had been recommended, paid £30 for enough veneer for two dashes. I suggest you try a test on a spare bit of wood! Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr6tuga Posted January 12, 2014 Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 Thank you Steve, I'll have a try as you sugest, keep update, hpoe to be as good as you Jose Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted January 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 Good luck Jose! We share sailing as an interest, and I'm toying with the idea of sailing down to the med this year, if I do will stop off in Porto to check out your dash! Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 This is my attempt at reveneering my dash used burr walnut glued with strong contact adhesive , then put in a press, trimmed with new Stanley blades , sanded , several coats of boat varnish. Very pleased but think it is to dark for my liking. So just purchased a piece of oak veneer nice grain Here we go again Going to take it to a local joinery shop and put it through a thicknesser to remove old veneer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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