matttnz Posted November 24, 2013 Report Share Posted November 24, 2013 Apologies if this is a repeat but a quick trawl through old posts didn't seem to answer my questions. I have a CR TR6 (new to me) that has Minilites (or equivalent) and Spax dampers all around. It looks like they've been on the car since a restoration in 1997-8. However I've taken the car in for some TLC & a WOF (NZ version of MOT) to find that the wheels are rubbing on the shocks. Any suggestions or solutions? Has anyone come across this before? I really like the Minilites over the stock wheels and would prefer to keep them. It must be possible given the number of cars shod with them and my setup can't be unique. My rear setup does seem to have quite significant negative camber (more the other local TR6s) but the front doesn't seem to. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobinTR6 Posted November 24, 2013 Report Share Posted November 24, 2013 Is start by checking your springs, they govern ride high, and the shims on the trailing arms. If you look at Buckeye Triunph he has all the combinations of him configuration and respective camber. Camber is very slight negative, unit sure exact spec but its easy to locate. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianhoward Posted November 24, 2013 Report Share Posted November 24, 2013 How about a spacer between the hub and wheel? Cheers Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 24, 2013 Report Share Posted November 24, 2013 Hi Matt, on my 4A I had wire wheels with no problems. When I changed to Minilite style wheels I found that the tyres on the rear wheels rubbed on the Koni damper and that the metal rim of the front wheel touched the outer attaching nut on the upper ball joint. This is clearly caused (in my case) by the offset of the wheel - check your offset. The cheaper solution for the rear wheels was to fit a 6mm spacer between wheel and hub. For the front I filed some metal off the nut. I think I have a little too much negative camber on the back. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted November 24, 2013 Report Share Posted November 24, 2013 You need spacers all round, a few millimetres will do it. It's not unusual. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
matttnz Posted November 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2013 Thanks. Spacers not a solution in New Zealand without a low volume certificate = $$$, but may end up being the solution eventually. The thing I can't figure is that the car passed its "immigration" check into NZ with this setup so I assume it must have been ok previously. Presumably intervening owners have adjusted/"improved" things. Do the Spax in themselves cause any issues clashing with the traditional wheels? I can't be sure what springs have been fitted. The owner who did this work seemed to know what he was up to in other areas as far as I can tell. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 24, 2013 Report Share Posted November 24, 2013 Hi Matt, if spacers are a problem then sorting out the back end camber will effect a cure. Or you could go back to the original armstrong levers - these can work very well. For the front, a simple attack with a file will remove enough to miss the wheel and not cause a problem with the nut. You could replace the Nyloc with a K series lock nut which has a much lower profile. The associated bolt is in shear so not a lot of load on the nut. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted November 24, 2013 Report Share Posted November 24, 2013 (edited) The rubbing of the wheel rim at the front is not to do with the shock absorbers, it's simply down to the wheel offset. The only way to fix it is spacers or different wheels. It must have been like that from day one and a little slack in the front wheel bearings would exacerbate it. At the rear the telescopic adapter turrets intrude in the wheel well. The only fixes are spacers, different wheels or revert to lever arm shock absorbers. Or, as Roger says- attack the front with a file. I would not advise altering camber at the rear although it does look to have a bit much, the suspension will still tend to squat and you probably won't fix it that way. Edited November 24, 2013 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
matttnz Posted November 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 Righto-cheers fellas. Looks like back to steels (for awhile at least) or spacers and paperwork++ You're probably right about the front bearing slack as I'm sorting out some trunion bushings as well. Looking into it further, spacers and certification may be cheaper than 5 new wheels with increased offset. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 25, 2013 Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 To get over clearance issues on the rear with tele conversions then the Moss type 3 brackets will help as the bracket is in closer to the arch. http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=22723 or the Racetorations ones. AXL412 http://www.racetorations.co.uk/page96.html Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mccallm Posted November 25, 2013 Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 Hi, I had a similar problem with my 15x6 revolutions they rubbed on full lock, my solution was to reduce the steering lock with a bigger stop (available from revington) with this and a little filing of the top arm nut it's not a problem anymore. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
matttnz Posted November 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 To get over clearance issues on the rear with tele conversions then the Moss type 3 brackets will help as the bracket is in closer to the arch. http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=22723 or the Racetorations ones. AXL412 http://www.racetorations.co.uk/page96.html Stuart. Good point-I seem to have type 2s Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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