bobrogg Posted November 5, 2013 Report Share Posted November 5, 2013 I replaced the heater valve on my car and noticed that the old unit could be taken apart by drilling out the pop rivet and giving the unit 1/4 turn. This is what I found on the inside of that valve. Note the only thing holding the unit together internally is a very small clip, if that fails the unit will stop working and probably leak coolant fluid. Such a small part could cause you a lot of grief Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted November 5, 2013 Report Share Posted November 5, 2013 I replaced the heater valve on my car and noticed that the old unit could be taken apart by drilling out the pop rivet and giving the unit 1/4 turn. This is what I found on the inside of that valve. Note the only thing holding the unit together internally is a very small clip, if that fails the unit will stop working and probably leak coolant fluid. Such a small part could cause you a lot of grief Bob, that style of heater valve has several failure modes and it is guaranteed to fail eventually. Since you are in the US take a look at the Autozone part number 74648, the Everco/Heater Control Valve $22.99. This is a drop in replacement for the original, looks good and just needs a minor reversible mod to the operating cable to match the lever on the valve. This is a simple all metal valve. Photobucket is down at the moment so I cant post a picture but Bob Danielson has this well documented: http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HeaterValve.htm Stan Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Millward Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 Hi Bob, I also fitted control valve that Stan is referring to after advice. It works very well and is smooth in operation. Cheers Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 I too have used the Everco/Heater Control Valve on my 4A, operates very well compared to the original. However it is about $45 here in Canada. Typical Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bobrogg Posted November 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 Bob, that style of heater valve has several failure modes and it is guaranteed to fail eventually. Since you are in the US take a look at the Autozone part number 74648, the Everco/Heater Control Valve $22.99. This is a drop in replacement for the original, looks good and just needs a minor reversible mod to the operating cable to match the lever on the valve. This is a simple all metal valve. Photobucket is down at the moment so I cant post a picture but Bob Danielson has this well documented: http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HeaterValve.htm Stan Thanks for the info, next time I change that valve out I will use this part instead Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 Bob I would change the valve ASAP for the Everco one as it can be very spectacularly messy when the originals blow! Usually right when you dont want it to happen. I have the Everco one on my 4a and its excellent and much more controllable and smoother in operation than the originals. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted November 29, 2013 Report Share Posted November 29, 2013 The only issue is that it is not a direct replacement as it needs the control cable being made to fit the control lever by forming an 'eye' to slip over the lever peg, and the inclusion of a water hose adaptor from its 5/8" outlet down to the TR 1/2" standard hose size. Neither are difficult but need to be considered if you think you will buy it on Saturday morning with the expectation of sinking a pint at lunchtime. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted November 29, 2013 Report Share Posted November 29, 2013 The only issue is that it is not a direct replacement as it needs the control cable being made to fit the control lever by forming an 'eye' to slip over the lever peg, and the inclusion of a water hose adaptor from its 5/8" outlet down to the TR 1/2" standard hose size. Neither are difficult but need to be considered if you think you will buy it on Saturday morning with the expectation of sinking a pint at lunchtime. Peter W I soldered a ring terminal on the end of the heater cable and did not have to modify/adapt any hoses. if I had a pub I would be downing that pint, if they had a pint. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 29, 2013 Report Share Posted November 29, 2013 I used a pair of long nose Mole grips to form a ring on the end of the cable, fit over the stud and then a small bit of washer tubing and a circular spring clip suffices as the cable cant slide up anyway. The Hose end of the valve is nicely swaged so good quality heater hose will go over it even though its ID is slightly smaller. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bluetr6reborn Posted December 15, 2013 Report Share Posted December 15, 2013 the tx taxi uses a similar heater valve very cheap on fleabay Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 15, 2013 Report Share Posted December 15, 2013 I believe the TX one doesn;t screw into the head like the original or the US one. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted December 15, 2013 Report Share Posted December 15, 2013 Correct. At least the one I used is like that. It's straight so you need an adaptor int the head and a right angle hose from there to the valve. The valve connections are different sizes but the hose will fit with a bit of coaxing over the swages in the valve. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.