JJC Posted September 25, 2013 Report Share Posted September 25, 2013 My nearside hinge (new replacement part) has pulled both studs out. Any ideas what could be wrong? There is some stress when closing the lid. JJC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chilliman Posted September 25, 2013 Report Share Posted September 25, 2013 Bet is was the wrong hand they sent - I seem to recall a lot of debate previously about left & right hinge numbers for the TR4 -not everyone agrees with the published wisdom! If it was the wrong side you've got fitted it would explain the stress. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 25, 2013 Report Share Posted September 25, 2013 Normally there shouild be no stress/stiffness in the hinges. The hinges are handed so make sure they are on the correct way. The hinge pin is inserted from inside to out. So the outer face of each hinge should be pin free. At best, the studs in the hinge are only just there so make sure they are well an truely secure Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted September 25, 2013 Report Share Posted September 25, 2013 (edited) From RevingtonTR website: << There is some confusion over the numbering of the TR4-5 boot hinges.TR4 and 4A original parts books state that 604917 is the Right Hand Hinge and 604918 is the Left Hand Hinge.The TR250 and TR5 original parts books state that 614917 is the Right Hand Hinge and that 614918 is the Left Hand Hinge. The change from '0' to '1' must have been a typographical error on the part of the Standard Triumph publications department as the numbers are otherwise too close for comfort!On top of that some suppliers parts books over the years have managed to transpose the numbers to add to the confusion, however, we are confident the above is correct and keep 604917 as a Right Hand Hinge. As 604918 are not available separately, you must buy a pair which we keep as 604917/8. This is because the suppliers of the after-market parts will only supply in pairs, but we have a stock of original Triumph hinges, but Right Hand only.Important Note:-The hinges are handed so ensure you fit to the correct side. Incorrect fitment will lead to a very quick failure of the hinge. >> It's also interesting to note that whilst they do a set of "High Quality" bonnet and boot hinges for the TR2-3B, there is no equivalent offering for TR4-5. I've just bought a set of HQ hinges for my TR3A as I'm bored with re-Aralditing studs into old or repro hinges with stripped threads. I just hope it's worth the investment. Edited September 25, 2013 by BrianC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted September 25, 2013 Report Share Posted September 25, 2013 (edited) Boot-hinges I know about having made my own from brass. http://flickr.com/gp/90670218@N04/Uj50e7/ Have you got packing washers between the boot-lid and its reinforcing frame? If not then you risk putting bumps in the lid. http://www.flickr.com/photos/90670218@N04/9465134005/ There may not be a long enough threaded portion without packing. So you could bottom out. Tightening then will pull out the studs. I use these between the lid and the frame. http://www.flickr.com/photos/90670218@N04/9685169897/ The stud near the tip only has 3/8in soft metal to hold into so they wont take much torque. 1-2 ft-lbs maybe. Cant believe you could fit them on the wrong side. Would look all ridiculous and you would notice right away. Edited September 25, 2013 by AlanT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JJC Posted September 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2013 Many thanks for the replies. The stress is in the support frame which doesn't seem to slot easily into place. Also I have to press quite hard to close the lid. I thought this was due to the sealing rubber being not as original. I think the (new) hinges are correctly handed. Looks as though I need to buy two more because once the studs have pulled out araldite is not going to work for long.JJC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 25, 2013 Report Share Posted September 25, 2013 If you slacken the hinges will the boot sit down better then. Remove the rubber seal completely and see how it sits then. Most seals are toooo big. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted September 25, 2013 Report Share Posted September 25, 2013 Remove the strut. These all seem to get bent. Compare the pin position in the new hinges with old ones. Done right the two pins are on the same axis. What kind of seal are you using? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JJC Posted September 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2013 I think the seal is too big. From memory I think it came from Moss. It has a double lip. But I also think the support frame is distorted. Need to go and have a closer look. The hinge stud closest to the petrol tank pulled out almost as soon as fitted. But I gave up on it. The other one gave up today. JJC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted September 26, 2013 Report Share Posted September 26, 2013 (edited) I have one of those Moss seals. The groove where the flange goes is not deep enough. I cut it deeper witha scalpel. This needs a bit of care so you dont go through. It then stays in place much better. Loads of repro hinges on eBay, try a different source. Mazak casting looked poor for these which is why I made them. How well does the lid fit the opening if there is no seal? What size thread are the studs in the hinges? Edited September 26, 2013 by AlanT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 26, 2013 Report Share Posted September 26, 2013 The boot seal needs to be the right shape but just as impportantly it needs to be the correct softness. The Moss seal is too stiff amongst other things. Try Revingtons boot seal. Both mine work OK. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JJC Posted September 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2013 Thanks again! Just looked at the seal and I think that's the culprit. I remember when I fitted it thinking it was too hefty but stupidly thought it would soften and crush in use. It obviously hasn't. Without the seal the lid just drops into place. Plan to try Revingtons seal and hinges. JJC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted September 26, 2013 Report Share Posted September 26, 2013 (edited) Not hard to deepen the groove. Sharp scapel blade a a few gentle strokes. The Moss one is good once you get it in place. Its the two rounded corners that really need to go deeper. Hardly any on the top edge. Some along the bottom. Or so mine was. Stuart recommends a seal from Woolies I think. It has a tube on the side I believe. Edited September 26, 2013 by AlanT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JJC Posted September 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2013 OK. Change of plan. Will go in search of an old scalpel and have a go with that first. If it doesn't work I'll buy new from Woolies or Revington. Will report back! JJC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 26, 2013 Report Share Posted September 26, 2013 The Revington one will be similar to the one you are about to doctor. However it is softer and squishes better. The Wollies one may work but, may still be too big. The tube is on the top of the gripper section. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 26, 2013 Report Share Posted September 26, 2013 Boot seal that works. http://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1928-small-boot-seal.aspx you will need 4mtrs. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JJC Posted September 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 It looks as though the root of the problem was the oversized rubber seal. I've opened out the U section by cutting it. This lets the seal sit much lower so the boot lid gets much closer to fully closed without having to lean on it. Because the studs had pulled out of the hinge the threads were never going to hold them. Helicoils too much messing about so regret to say I drilled them out and used araldite. So far seems to work but time will tell. What a pity there isn't a list on here of parts that need this sort of modification (the rubber seal). Maybe we could include the cylinder block drain taps as well JJC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted September 30, 2013 Report Share Posted September 30, 2013 Try these but put the threaded parts in with stud-grade Loctite. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.