Pinking & Lumpy

[AndrewP]

You didnt seem to linger on Jims suggestion that the fuel could have been bad?

 

Thats the first thing Id begin with either running through or siphoning off as much as possible and re-filling.

 

What did you fill up with? 'normal' ULP or uber-super-dooper-good-enough-for-Ferraris ULP?

 

I was reminded that most petrol stations go through 3 or 4 tanks of ULP to 1 tank of super ULP, therefore the super stuff sits far longer in the tanks than ULP. If the tanks are old or water gets in, then the fuel is pretty much useless.

They will still sell it to you mind, and at the super premium price!

 

Anyway..start with what changed...and if you filled up a few miles before hand, then my moneys on fuel.

 

Cheers

 

Andrew

[Kevo_6]

Hi Andrew

 

Thanks for your reply and I hope you are well.

 

I had 1/2 a tank of v power when I filled up at Malvern and I topped up with Texaco premium UL (it was a grubby looking pump), drove for about 100 miles and stopped in the Pub near home, rested for about 40 mins and that's when it all started for the last 30 miles or so. I still have 1/2/ a tank left of the mixture but thought i would wait till i got a new fuel filter and check that end all at the same time.

Edited August 14, 2013 by Kevo_6

[Kevo_6]

Hi

I have replaced the fuel filter and cleaned the strainer in the PRV. No crud inside either of them. I have also ran in a new feed for the pump.

No noticeable difference.

I have now resorted to alcohol (me that is).

What do you think my next step should be?

 

Thanks as always.

[Peter Cobbold]

I still think the key is what happened in 40min at the pub.

Maybe something cooked, perhaps the coil, or condenser?

The backfiring suggests it could be spark.

Crackly sound? - maybe stray HT: check for loose sparks in the dark.

Check points gap, has the cam follower melted? the plastic can go off very quickly if not lubricated with a tad of grease.

 

Maybe there's still an air lock in the fuel line alongside the exhaust? Try a run up a steep hill??

[Kevo_6]

Thanks for your help Peter, I will do as you suggest and methodically go through the ignition system.

[Guest ntc]

Do you have a clear pulse and spray from the injectors? and who's dizzy cap

Edited August 15, 2013 by ntc

[Kevo_6]

Hi Neil

 

Yes i seem to have a good pulse and spray cone on each injector, the distributor was done by the dizzy doc last year and i am fairly sure the cap came back with it as did the red rotor arm etc. I have a set of Cobalt high performance silicone leads from Moss.

Edited August 15, 2013 by Kevo_6

[PJM]

Try running it in the dark to spot stray arcing & escaping electrickery

[Guest ntc]

Are the butterflys in sync?

[Kevo_6]

Are the butterflys in sync?

Not sure Neil, but I will check them tomorrow. Thanks

 

 

[Guest ntc]

The spindles can and do twist

[Kevo_6]

The spindles can and do twist

In that case I will look very closely Thanks for the tip.

[Guest ntc]

Worth every penny http://www.fastroadcars.co.uk/shop/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=209

[Kevo_6]

Worth every penny http://www.fastroadcars.co.uk/shop/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=209

Would that be placed in the individual butterfly.

[Guest ntc]

Yep and you get it setup as it should be

[Kevo_6]

Yep and you get it setup as it should be

Thanks Neil, looks like a worth while tool.

[Guest ntc]

If you get it you will not regret it saves guessing get back to me if you do

[Kevo_6]

I will order one today, many thanks

[Kevo_6]

I have removed the air box etc. and done a visual check on the butterflies & linkage.

The linkage rods has some movement but not massive, I checked the butterfly screws & 1 was looseish, so I tightend it up, started the engine and put my hand over each butterfly, number 1 had a suck on my hand all the others were minimum apart from number 3 which had a really good suck on my hand (this is the one with the loose screw). I checked with my thinnest feeler gauge (.05 thou) no fag paper available and it just held on it, all others it would not fit. So butterflies need balancing when I get my synchrometer delivered. Is it worth buying the knuckle type linkage thingies that all the usual suspects sell?

I have also replaced the condenser and put everything back together, it's still missing but not pinking much at all just feels like its running on 5 now, will swap the leads over next and see if it gets a little better.

 

[Guest ntc]

Yep it is and the spark is pointless unless they are in sync patience

[Kevo_6]

Ok cheers Neil.

[Kevo_6]

Yep it is and the spark is pointless unless they are in sync patience

Hi Neil

I have fitted my new threaded link rods last night and I have picked up from the post office this morning my synchrometer.

Do I now set up as per the Brown Manual or are there other little tips and tricks that I need to know.

I appreciate your help, as always.

[Guest ntc]

You have pm

[TR NIALL]

Kev,Im sure Neil is lending a Helping Hand so stick with his Advice but heres my bit below.

When Setting up Throttle Bodies make sure Engine is good and Hot,get yourself some Heat Resistent Gloves to save burnt Fingers/Hands, adjust all Rods with the Sync Meter to get the best balance across the 3 Throttle Bodies,yes things will change when Cold but all of your Driving will be done when Engine is Hot so = Hot Settings.

Have you tried a New Rotor Arm and Dizzy Cap.

[Kevo_6]

Hi Niall

 

Thanks, yes Neil is a good help but thanks for your input too, the gloves are a great idea as i found out last night.

My cap, dizzy & rotor arm are about 1000 miles old from the dizzy doc but i have swapped things around apart from the leads which are about the same age. I just need to get my brain engaged re the balancing. Practice makes perfect.