Rodbr Posted February 25, 2013 Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 I cannot find aything in the manual about this and how you can change it, tighten it etc. Is this a head off item and send away job to replace it. This is on the exhaust side half way along the head. Rgds Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted February 25, 2013 Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 I cannot find aything in the manual about this and how you can change it, tighten it etc. Is this a head off item and send away job to replace it. This is on the exhaust side half way along the head. Rgds Rod Rod, is this the alu plug that is on top of the head (PS.1603)?. That appears to be screwed in. I dont recall having to mess with it unlike the core plug at the back of the head which had rusted through. Is your alu plug leaking ? Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted February 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 Hi Stan, Thats the one! Adjusting the tappets today and notice a weep in tiny water bubbles (pink) as using waterless coolant so I know it is coolant. There is no slot or anything to tighten this down. Are they even available? rgds Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted February 25, 2013 Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 (edited) Hi Stan, Thats the one! Adjusting the tappets today and notice a weep in tiny water bubbles (pink) as using waterless coolant so I know it is coolant. There is no slot or anything to tighten this down. Are they even available? rgds Rod Moss UK lists it PS1603 CORE PLUG, top face of cylinder head TR2, TR3/3A, TR4/4A £9.95 €11.54 It may come as a stick of five, you screw the bottom one in and once tight saw it off level with the surface. Stan Edited February 25, 2013 by foster461 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted February 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 Has anyone changed one of these without removal of the head. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted February 26, 2013 Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 Can you not use K Seal? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John390 Posted February 26, 2013 Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 K Seal! Don't go there! It is wonderful stuff for curing leaks but your heater will never work again. Don't ask how I know! Cheers John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted February 26, 2013 Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 You should bypass the heater before use Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted February 26, 2013 Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 (edited) K Seal! Don't go there! It is wonderful stuff for curing leaks but your heater will never work again. Don't ask how I know! Cheers John You should bypass the heater before use That's a potential problem well worth knowing about (I always carry K-Seal in my toolbag but have never used it). However, I wonder if just closing the heater tap would be sufficient? I have a nasty feeling that the other pipe would need to be clamped or blocked as well. Getting slightly off-topic, so back to original problem: Wouldn't a covering of JB Weld suffice to stop the leak? (Also worth carring in the toolbag). Edited February 26, 2013 by BrianC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MCOOPER53 Posted February 26, 2013 Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 Rod, Yes you can replace the core plug with the head still in place, did it the other week on my 3A. Like you I noticed water around the edge of the core plug when adjusting the tappets. It's easy to replace, just bash out the old one with a screwdriver, clean out the edges of the hole, cut a slot in the top of the new core plug so you can use a screwdrive to fit it and use plenty of sealant. Martin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted February 26, 2013 Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 I'd have thought drill a hole in it and use a big easiout/broken stud remover to wind it out. Clean the thread in the head. Gob sealant on the new plug and wind in using the spare plugs on the stick of plugs as an area for vise grips to clamp on. I am fairly sure the one in my head has its edges peened. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted February 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 Hi Martin, Many thanks for your reply. Where did you get the replacement core plug? What thread seal did you use? I have never seen one of these leak before but the real downside of thisis that it is gently oosing away straight into the oil gallery and youdo not see it, watery oil is not the best lubricant ever. Realistically you would never know you had a problem, unless like Martin and I, you noticed when adjusting the tappets. I have looked at most of the suggestions: Sealer may not mix with my waterless coolant. May block new heater matrix! J B Weld or Quicksteel may break off, get mashed and pass into the oil gallery, eek!!! It would need to be cleaned with thinners before application. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MCOOPER53 Posted February 26, 2013 Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 Rod, Got the core plugs from Moss, as Stan says they come on a stick of five. I used some old green Hermatite sealer as it was the only stuff I had to hand, I think it sets hard. Martin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted February 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 hi Martin, Ordered from Moss and assured should be here tomorrow. I have some Locktite thread lock. Why in a set of 5, do they think it is a regular requirement so you need spares? I must say I am a tad nervous about "bashing it with a screw driver and hammer" Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted February 26, 2013 Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 (edited) hi Martin, Ordered from Moss and assured should be here tomorrow. I have some Locktite thread lock. Why in a set of 5, do they think it is a regular requirement so you need spares? I must say I am a tad nervous about "bashing it with a screw driver and hammer" I think that bashing part needs some clarification. These things are about a half inch thick so I'm assuming he means try and unscrew it by getting some purchase around the perimiter and unscrewing it by tapping the pointy object with a hammer. You cant just lever it out like a regular core plug. Since it is into a water jacket I wonder if you just just drill a hole in it and use a regular extractor ? Stan Edited February 26, 2013 by foster461 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted February 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 I tend towards the stud extractor but with ally being so soft which type is the best to use for this as I have four sided blade type and the round reverse screw type? I will always have the option of the pin punch to butcher it totally. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MCOOPER53 Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 Rod/Stan, The core plug on my 3A was less than a couple of millimetres thick due to corrosion and hence the leak. So it was easy to lever out using my rather crude method I must admit. Martin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted March 2, 2013 Report Share Posted March 2, 2013 As it happens I have a new stick of these in my box of engine spares and there are 9 plugs in this stick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted March 2, 2013 Report Share Posted March 2, 2013 Thats interesting, looks like s plumbers thread pitch to me, or say (Not necessarily TR) gearbox or diff plug? John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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