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Oil filter wont seal(whats it off)Pictures.


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Just had engine rebuilt but cannot get oil filter to seal.The engineer even took the bell housing to Manners triumph spares in Oldbury,but they could not match up the o`rings.They were miffed,so does this look like a standard set-up,or is it an oddity,please help as its leaking quite a lot.

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I'll lay a pound to a penny that your filter adaptor is the old type which does not have a sprung centre boss. If it is then don't be tempted to tighten it further or you risk rendering your block scrap. Remove it and check to see if it has a sprung centre. If not you are best advised to change it. You might also have an old O ring stuck in the block groove but your man should have covered that off. The installation is not standard by the way as you have an oil cooler takeoff in addition to the spin on filter conversion. It's a common modification.

 

I see that you have a rocker oil feed kit fitted. I'd remove that if it was my car but each to his own.

 

(null)

Edited by peejay4A
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Doesn't look like anything I've ever seen on a TR6! :blink:

My 'Standard' Oil Filter Bowl has never failed to seal or ever leaked in 40 years! ;)

Edited by Denis
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I agree with Peejay, it's a very common conversion on 5s and sixes. Mine is an early one without the spring and has been on for 15 years or so; I guess I was fortunate in getting it seated o.k. However as Peejay say the early ones have been known to cause problems.

 

Cheers

Allan

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Eddie,

If it's leaking between the spin on filter and the adaptor that would be quite unusual. If you're sure check that the mating surface on the adaptor is clean and that the seal on the filter is not damaged. If fitted dry they can tear. My money

would still be on the adaptor to block seal which is what I understood from your first post.

 

The argument against the rocker oil feed is that it can starve the bottom end of oil and it's a lot cheaper to fix the rocker gear than the bottom end. Unless you meter the rocker oil feed with a restrictor and that is not easy. My advice is to remove it and replace the banjo bolt in the cylinder head with a plain bolt (not a screw) and copper washer. If you search the forum you'll find arguments for and against. This is just my view.

Edited by peejay4A
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Its leaking between filter and adaptor Poolboy,its a case of each failed attempt,its another gallon of oil.ref rocker oil feed kit Peejay,is it not needed or detremental in any way,excuse my ignorance but im not the hottest on the mechanical side of things.

 

 

The casting is faulty or not flat

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Part number 272539, page 20/21 of the Moss catalogue, £2.10.

 

When you fit it, make sure you have the spring loaded boss version of the adaptor.

Edited by peejay4A
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When I fitted one of these in the mid 1990's, it leaked until Malcolm Vaughan at T&M Classics machined the face a few thou'. He said that they did this to all spin on filter conversions because they all leakeed! No more leaks after that>

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My apologies,it wont seal from the adaptor to the block,engineer said there are 2 o rings and it looks like it needs a flat type of o ring,of which Manners couldnt match up.So can anybody point me in the right direction as this still isnt rectified,annoyingly,cheers.

 

 

That says a lot about both parties they should have known better

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There are lots of those Mocal adaptors out there. They are a big improvement on the original offering.

 

However, in the original filter design, the relationship between the outer seal groove depth and the flat surface that the inner seal sits on (originally the seat for the paper element) is non-critical and consequently Triumph didn't worry about variations. These can lead to problems with the adaptors though.

 

Two main variants:

Originals have an O-ring groove in the centre. That O-ring is to seal the unfiltered oil from the filtered oil. When supplied new they came with two O-rings, a fat one and a thin one. They also came with an instruction sheet that told you do first dig out the old, square section filter casing seal from the outer groove, make sure there wasn't another, even older, one behind it (common!), then fit a new one. Next, take a piece of plasticine (or blu-tak) about the size of a small pea and stick it to the adaptor, near the O-ring groove and trial fit the adaptor, tightening the bolt to a moderate . Remove and see what's happened to the plasticine. If mashed absolutely flat, you need the thinner O-ring. If still a couple of mm thick, use the thicker one.

 

Consequences of using the thicker one when you need the thinner one is an external oil leak because the thick internal O-ring prevents the outer one from being sufficiently compressed to seal. Graunching up the bolt can have the dire consequence of pulling the threaded boss clean out of the block - so don't do that!

 

Conversely the consequences of fitting the thin one when you need the thick is an internal oil leak allowing a small proportion of flow to bypass the filter. More seriously it also allows the oil galleries to drain a bit quicker when the engine is off meaning it takes longer to get oil pressure on start-up.

 

Some suppliers of replacement seals for the adaptor have a tendency to only supply the thicker one (which does seem to be the more commonly needed one). The proper Mocal kit contains all of them for all variants.

 

Later versions of the adaptor have a spring-loaded plate in the centre with a flat rubber seal and these self-adjust.

 

It is also worth mentioning that the adaptor walls are very thin near the outer sealing area and it is not unknown for them to be porous. It's not easy to spot the difference between that and seal leak.......

 

Cheers

 

Nick

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Hi Nick,

 

You recently helped me on the CT 2.5 forum for this issue, I've since got a O ring seal for the inner. No leaks and I think oil pressure is a little quicker to arrive now.

 

Cheers

 

Anyone with an older spin on filter and lazy oil pressure I would recommend you check that all is well!

Edited by stephen cooper
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